Post Dyno sheets here.

[J DAWG]

Not really a topic, I just like to compare graphs and the mods that created the results. I wish we had an area that contained these charts.

I would be interested in seeing the curves the different s/c and NOS setups yielded.

I may just take a few hours and try to pull some together.

If anyone has some please post them.

 

[SUN RA KAT]

I'd like to figure out how to post mine it has before and after my Roe Supercharger HP & Torque curves.

 

[Jack B]

Scan and save; upload to your member gallery under media; right click on the full photo/properties/high-light the link and copy; start your post; click on "image" below post box; when pop-up comes up, right click on the empty link line and paste - you are done.

 

[J DAWG]

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[J DAWG]

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Dyno sheet for his GEN-1 816.2 RWHP ExecUtron's Viper.

 

[J DAWG]

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Smokins 99 GTS with full exhaust and T&D's. Stock heads and cam.

 

[J DAWG]

GaryA's 2000 RT

My car dynoed at 466 rwhp before Jason started. He changed out the cast pistons, reworked the heads, changed the fuel system, added the blower and the intercooler. That's just about it. I repeat, no nitrous, no race fuel of any kind, and we're making about 11 lbs. of boost

 

[J DAWG]

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It's running 11-15 lbs of boost depending on setup, and then spraying NOS on top of that. This is a completely built engine, including custom forged pistons,

 

[J DAWG]

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Dr Roof's 98 GTS DLM

 

[J DAWG]

BTR 750 SS with nitrous

 

[J DAWG]

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Lethal 750

 

[99 R/T 10]

Hey J SMITH or anyone who may know,

This is my dyno sheet and looking at the A/F chart, is mine running lean? Hard to see, but right between 14 and 13. I pulled a 12.3@115 during the same day. Given the weight of myself and the car, my power should have been around the 420 range. Now, they did not have the fan for the front of the car which is suppose to help and I have the 3.73 in teh rear. Seen a few opinions that I might lose 3% off of the true numbers, but that is debatable. This dyno was a mobile one. There was a Z06 that pulled a 350 RWHP, just two weeks earlier had done 372. Comparisons only.

 

[J DAWG]

96 RT/10

There certainly are several variables as you stated. Temp being a big factor as well as type of dyno and the gear thing. Using these #'s and 15% driveline loss, it puts you around 462 at the crank(420 rwhp = 495 crank). Considering your mods that is pretty close IMO. The car did seem to stay on the lean side and a Vec 1 could help with that. Your mph is good with the 3.73's(don't know your 60 ft), E bet you can improve the time with the launch, as I am trying to do, but track conditions play a big part in that.

When you compare your #'s that day with the vettes(I assume 405 hp car) the dyno seems to be consistent. Thanks for the graph.

John

 

[99 R/T 10]

Hey John,
Shows A/F around the 13.5, what is the optimum A/F for the car? Is the best at 11.5 to 12.5? How much HP would be gained? Thanks,

Mike

 

[J DAWG]

I have only opinions, but for your setup when compared to other Gen I's I think your A/F #'s are relatively normal. With tuning the car while on a dyno I have heard people pick up as much as 10-15 hp. I would email or call one of the tuners and see what they have to say also. Also may want to check for full throttle and change plugs if it has been a while. These could also yield some easy and cheap hp.

 

[SUN RA KAT]

I need more help in posting my dyno sheet. I tried once and it said I had too big of a file, so I downsized it. But now it says it doesn't like what format I'm using. I've tried bitmap, gif, & jpeg - all with unhappy results.

Maybe I'll just post RPMs and HP and Torque & everyone can draw the curves at home on graph paper...

 

[J DAWG]

Kenny, have you tried uploading it directly to the media section and then transfering the URL into your reply in the image box?

You can email it to me and I can post it.

 

[J DAWG]

Sun Ra Kat's dyno before and after ROE S/C

Kenny, I apologive for cutting off the Colletti Motorsports.

John

 

[SUN RA KAT]

J SMITH -

Many thanks for posting this for me.

Send me a P.M. or post in public on what I need to do to post my own photos here.

God bless

 

[GONABITE]

Kenny,

That is a weird dyno graph, most times the touqe and hp meet areoung 5200 rpm, yours meets much sooner , I don't understand the decline in toruqe as well, was this before your vec-2 install or after?

 

[SUN RA KAT]

GONABITE -

Notice that the torque (right) side numbers and the horsepower (left) side numbers are not the same. If they were the same, then they would meet at 5250 RPMs as per the formula for torque & horsepower.

 

[MichaelP]

Anyone else going cross eyed trying to read the torque and RWHP?

SunRa any posiblity you could do post a chart with same levels on both sides?

 

[Jack B]

Question - why does everyone post without the a/f curves.

 

[J DAWG]

Question - why does everyone post without the a/f curves.

I was told the a/f readings cost extra and not everyone opts for them. Don't know if this is correct, but I would like to have them as well.

 

[MaxedGTS]

Question - why does everyone post without the a/f curves.

my point exactly! I can't understand anybody putting a car on a dyno and doesnt care what the a/f is???? i've seen over a dozen DLM cars all with a/f shown and know they could make a heck of alot more power if they were run leaner. you can see DLM builds cars on the conservative side, not on the jagged edge. you could tell alot about the tuning from the a/f curve. I like to see the a/f and how the car is tuned NOT just a big hp number.

Max

 

[SUN RA KAT]

I was told that accurate A/F could not be gotten with catalytic converters so I opted to not have that done at the time I did my dyno run.

 

[Jack B]

Sun Ra Kat:

It is very easy, insert the wide band A/F transducer in your forward O2 well and you have an accurate reading. In my opinion the dyno is used for two reasons. It allows you to make modifications/changes and assess their results.
Secondly, the dyno verifies your a/f is in the correct range. Because the sound of a modified car makes it difficult to hear mild detonation, the only way to guarantee you are not near that point is to obtain the a/f during your dyno session.

A dyno operator who allows an expensive car in his facility, especially a NOS or SC car, and does not take a/f readings is someone to stay away from.

 

[Sean Roe]

Hi Jack,

Have you run dyno pulls on 1996 to 2002 Vipers without one of the primary (upstream) oxygen sensors in the exhaust? If so, how long did you run it before the check engine light set and the engine began running rich? I've never run without one of the upstreams installed and wouldn't think the OBDII PCM's would tolerate it.

Kenny, you're correct. If you run a post catalytic converter air / fuel ratio meter you have to subtract "about" .3 to .5 from the reading.

Sean

 

[Jack B]

Sean:

I'll give you a call tomorrow to discuss. I dyno at a facility called Dynotech. They set up a large number of of the actual Dynojets as they leave the factory. They also do field training for Dynojet. We used the probe in the side exhaust on my Gen1. At their suggestion I started using the forward O2 hole on my 97 Gen2. I have many pulls and several sessions done this way. The hp is good and the mods/changes are verifiable. I also begin and end each session with a NA pull and haven't seen any a/f diff.

I have never had the service engine light come on. What do you think the negative is. I am getting ready to dyno this month. I will do similar pulls with the transducer mounted in the two positions and will post the results. I will also talk to them tomorrow and get their reasoning relative to the O2 transducer placement. You do have a good point.

Back to my point, I was politely trying to say it makes no sense to dyno a nos/sc engine without monitoring a/f, independent of where you monitor the a/f. It should be even more critical on a nos/sc Viper since you are working at or near the maximum of the fuel delivery system?

 

[Chuck B 98 GTS]

I don't know of another way to properly tune an sc/nos car without having some type of a/f map to tune with? How does everybody else do it? Why not use the probe after the cat and get a reading close to what you need?
I would rather be off +/- half a point than guess what the a/f is. Another way you could do it is weld a **** on your exhaust and just put a pipe plug in it after using the dyno.

Cheers,
Chuck