seat belt for tracking

jjrho

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Not sure where to post.... Want to track the TA.. what is the pros n cons of 5 vs. 6 point harness?? Spt sells 6 point...what about 5 point ??
 

AZTVR

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Not sure where to post.... Want to track the TA.. what is the pros n cons of 5 vs. 6 point harness?? Spt sells 6 point...what about 5 point ??

Sorry, I don't know about SPT. The 5 point typically requires an anchor point near the front of the seat for the 5th belt and usually needs to pass through the seat cushion pretty close and central to your naughty bits. The Teamtech harness 6-point routes the 2 lower belts from the back of the seat and they somewhat pass "around " the valuables. Call JonB for details.
 
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jjrho

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I see..makes sense...hence they promote the 6 point so we don't have to put holes in the seat... got it... I know what. Why to get now....just have to decide on specific brand n color... tnx
 

VIPER GTSR 91

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I see..makes sense...hence they promote the 6 point so we don't have to put holes in the seat... got it... I know what. Why to get now....just have to decide on specific brand n color... tnx
Brand? Willans is by far the best and used by most pro teams. Im not wild about Teamtech. Color? Will only show after the checkered flag anyway. http://www.willans.com/
 

Bobpantax

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Go to this thread: http://forums.viperclub.org/threads...ople-are-so-fickle./page5?highlight=Bobpantax

In particular, post numbers 157 to 169. They pertain to the TeamTech 6004 SRTTA six point harness. A number of us have installed same on our TAs and like them. As noted above, some have a different preference.

Here is post 169 in its entirety:

Here is what I learned edited and put together into one set of instructions:

1. The workmanship of the harness is excellent.

2. Remove the two most rearward bolts at the end of the seat rails. Use a socket with the base socket wrench without an extension assuming your sockets are about two inches long. If they are short ones, use a short extension because if it is too long, you will not get enough leverage because of the tightness of the space to easily remove the stock nuts.

3. There are two slots already created between the upper part of the seat and the bottom of the seat for the crotch belts to go through. Put them through first ( make sure you preposition them correctly so that the correct side of the belt ends facing up on the seat ); then put each belt end over each end of the bar; and then attach the bar to the two rearward seat track bolts referred to above. The bar attaches flat side down with the v facing rearward like this >.

4. Place the supplied washers over the bolts. If you do not have a magnetized ratchet head, use a bolt/nut/***** retriever and preposition the nut on the bolt after you put the washer in. Then tighten with ratchet.

5. Next I put the eye bolts in for the shoulder belts. When you remove and replace the plastic cover/panel, the rubber grommet that the lower part of it clips into can fall off down behind the bulkhead panel so be careful and gentle. Locking washers that are available from TeamTech with the eye bolts can be used.

6. In order to get the shoulder belts through the holes in the top of the seat it is necessary to fold the metal clip down so that you make the end as narrow as possible and twist the end 90 degrees so that it is parallel to the strap. You have to carefully experiment with this a bit. Once you have it folded the correct way, it goes through the hole without much of a problem. Make sure that you put the driver's right strap through the driver's right hole.

7. OPTIONAL. Adjust the four point set up to see how it feels. Since this harness is doubly adjustable and has Team Tech's most advanced adjusting tech, it is easy to do.

8. There are low profile hex bolts filling the lap belt eye bolt holes on the inboard and outboard sides. Because there is some sound/heat insulation under and attached to the rug covering, the low profile bolts sink into it and it cannot be felt by finger probe. They are coated with locktite and torqued very tight. Use about a twelve inch ratchet handle with a hex head ratchet to free it up. It will not free up easily. It takes some muscle.

COMMENT:The factory might want to look into a better solution for plugging these holes. In fact it would have been pretty cool if, at least in the TA, they had just had heat resistant plastic plugs or something similar that went through the carpet and insulation into the bolt holes where the top of the plug said LB ( for lap belt).

9. The procedure for locating the lap belt bolt holes is simple. First gently pop out the rug that is behind the driver's seat on the side a few inches. Peel it back a bit. You will see the hex nut inside the bolt hole. Next, the lower panel on the rear bulkhead behind the driver's seat pulls out completely. Remove it and place it outside the car. Then you can gently pull out the carpet behind the driver's seat on the left on the transmission tunnel wall. Pull this, like the right side, from the top down. You can pull it out enough until you see the inboard hex head nut which is almost exactly above and to the left of the end of the inboard seat runner. Remove both nuts as described in paragraph 8 above.

10. Once you have the location of the hex head nuts exposed, then you can mark the location on the carpet and cut a small X through the carpet and the insulation.

11. With the hex head nuts removed, put the inboard side carpet back in place; then reinstall the lower bulkhead carpet panel;and, finally put back the driver's side carpet.

12. Install each eye bolt at the respective X's you have cut over the bolt holes. The lap belts clip on to the eye bolts.

13. Adjust all straps to your liking.

14. Have a beverage to congratulate yourself.
 

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