Updated/Improved Custom Ramps

A few months ago there were some questions about how to get the VIPER off the ground to perform maintenance. In this post:

http://forums.viperclub.org/showthread.php?t=594092&highlight=ramps

I posted several pictures of the ramp I built, initially for my C5 Corvette, and now for my '94 RT/10. Here's a couple pics of the old ones for people to lazy to click the link:





As you can see the top of the ramp is fairly short. In actuallity, this last step was an afterthought when I realized the car wasn't as high as I wanted it to be. The problem with it being short is there's no where to block the car from rolling backwards.

Here's where it gets interesting. I bought some 6 Ton jack stands a few weeks ago because I'm just not thrilled with my 2-Ton stands. The problem is I have to jack the car up higher to get the 6-Ton stands under the car. Well, last week I lifted the car enough that the car rolled off the ramps while I was jacking it. The car stayed on the jacks as I guided them, but it scared the hell out of me.

So, I decided to improve the ramps this weekend with the following goals: same height, larger top pad, no increase in weight.

First is the original ramp ready for modification:



Removed the original top level and stop, the remaining piece is the new top of the ramp:



The original rubber pads that are stuck and nailed to the original bottom board have to be removed since it will no longer be the bottom:



This is the 41.5" board, used to be the second from the bottom, with a lightening hole cut:



This is the 55" board, used to be the bottom, with two lightening holes cut:



I cut two new boards, each 2 x 10 x 70" and cut lightening holes. This is the new 70" board laying next to the 55" board:



The new top board (the 27" long one) gets the old stop screwed to the end and a small 1 x 2 across the front about 4" from the 45 degree cut. Testing on the car wheels shows these need to be a minimum of 13" appart, this mounting results in more than 15", more than enough to slide a larger block in to prevent the car from moving back (if required):



Screw everything back together and you get this:







I can't stress this enough, the key to making these ramps not slide is the rubber pads on the bottom:



Results: The new and longer ramps weight no more than the old ones. They actually feel lighter. When I run the car on the ramps I'll get some pics and comment on the functionality.

Enjoy!

 

And here's some pics of the car on the ramps:



The triangle block that slides behind the tire:



and the triangle block in place behind the wheel and against the hardmounted 1x2:

 

great idea Tony.

JD, steal away, that's why I posted it.

I forgot to thank my wife who spent a significant amount of time with the jigsaw cutting almost all of the holes to lighten the ramps.

 

maybe, but I already had the 2x10 boards cut and didn't feel like buying a bunch of new boards and cutting them to length and cutting the approach angles, etc. plus my wife was happy to be helping.

 

you're correct about the back stop, but if you make it too big your car will hit it, so keep that in mind.

 

no problem, and good luck. remember, the key to making the ramps work is the rubber pads on the bottom, otherwise you'll just push the ramps around.

 

I used my small, crappy battery powered circular saw. You can rotate the platform up to 45 degrees to make cuts like that.

 

yeap, you're right, that's why I had the lower boards stretch father forward on both designs.

 

Necessity is the mother of invention, and there aren't a lot of ramps available for cars like this.

 

thanks, I'm famous now, when will the riches come?