Viper Oil Catch Can - No Viper Tax

SYNFULL

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Hi,
I bought this on ebay. Total cost with shipping was about $29. I thought it was a good deal so I am passing it on. I haven't installed yet, and I am not sure where or how i am going to since it has 2 lines instead of 1 and a filter. I am thinking of just putting it inline before the tubing goes into the airbox.
viper_oil_catch_can.jpg


Here is a linkeBay Motors: Red Reservoir Oil Catch Tank Can SRT4 CORVETTE VIPER GT (item 370018405611 end time Feb-05-08 15:51:15 PST)
 

dave6666

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Explaining Viper things to you
Do you actually need it? I see them all the time and have thought the same. Cool item for cheap. But do I need it?

If you decide you don't need it, just install the hose to the reservoir and then tie the other end of the hose to the rear of the car. Drag it like wedding day beer cans.
 

KenH

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Near stock cars don't really need them, though they will fix the issue with oil from the valve cover making its way to the air intake under hard braking which can cause a lot of white smoke out the exhaust pipe.

They become pretty essential on cars running boost. Both because the amount of blowby increases and feeding that oily blowby back to the intake can create detonation problems. You can see my large catch can in my avatar where the washer bottle used to be.
 

Jerome Sparich

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Hi,
I bought this on ebay. Total cost with shipping was about $29. I thought it was a good deal so I am passing it on. I haven't installed yet, and I am not sure where or how i am going to since it has 2 lines instead of 1 and a filter. I am thinking of just putting it inline before the tubing goes into the airbox.
viper_oil_catch_can.jpg


Here is a linkeBay Motors: Red Reservoir Oil Catch Tank Can SRT4 CORVETTE VIPER GT (item 370018405611 end time Feb-05-08 15:51:15 PST)

Where I made it bold above is all you need to do.

I just got two of the same ones. One for my truck and one for the GF's Rumble Bee.
 

KenH

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On boosted applications, you don't generally want to run the line back to the air box and instead just use a vented catch can.

The inline setup works fine for NA applications and it will help to keep the majority of the oil and water out of the air box which is all you really need to do in that application.
 

Purdue_Boiler_Viper

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On boosted applications, you don't generally want to run the line back to the air box and instead just use a vented catch can.

The inline setup works fine for NA applications and it will help to keep the majority of the oil and water out of the air box which is all you really need to do in that application.

Hey Ken, why would you say that you don't want to run the line back to the air box? I've done so on my boosted GTS, and I don't see any obvious residue. The oil seen previously in my throttle bodies is now captured by the catch can.
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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Do you actually need it? I see them all the time and have thought the same. Cool item for cheap. But do I need it?

On road courses the oil splashes into the air intake bad. Real bad. Makes a mess. I don't think the oil in the air filter hurts performance so much but a catch can is nice to have.

My problem with all the catch cans I've seen is they are all so huge. All that is needed is a little container that holds a few ounces, not some coke can sized thing.
 

KenH

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Hey Ken, why would you say that you don't want to run the line back to the air box? I've done so on my boosted GTS, and I don't see any obvious residue. The oil seen previously in my throttle bodies is now captured by the catch can.
My understanding is that the oily vapor in the air (which wouldn't drop out in a catch can) serves to lower the effective octane rating. There is also the issue that the blowby gases are going to be fairly warm which would adversely affect both performance and the chance for detonation.

Is it a significant concern? - dunno. I had mine vented back to the intake originally, but changed it after reading up on it more. My car has been prone to some detonation problems, so I have looked for any improvements that I can make. I can't say that I noted any significant difference when I made the change.

Routing it back to the intake would be a little more environmentally friendly I suppose if it doesn't create any other issues.
 

VIPER BAZ UK

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Daves Big Brakes does a nice kit and not oversized...
Got one on my viper and it sitts out the way on the cross member..
 
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SYNFULL

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Daves Big Brakes does a nice kit and not oversized...
Got one on my viper and it sitts out the way on the cross member..

Yes, but his is 10 times more money ($299) which is my point. I'm sure it's a quality product but this will work just as well for $29.

Gary
 

99 R/T 10

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Oil in the crankcase will affect the Octane rating of the incoming fuel to the bad side(lowers octane). I have one on my S/C car becasue I can't afford to let it **** down low octane. It's too prone to detonation.
 

plumcrazy

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i bought the same kit a while back. had to do some mods to it but it came out nice. i think i posted some pics of it somewhere if ya search around.

its a good place to start
 

BOTTLEFED

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I have run these on other cars and they work great

I would recommend running it inline of the stock syst.
by having it going to the intake, it creates a vacuum in the catchcan that helps pull blowby gases out of the valve covers
 

RTTTTed

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My car has a catch can after an electric vacuum pump that is hooked to the valve cover causing a vacuum in the crankcase. This raises the "effective" compression ratio gaining hp, while NOT causing an actual compression increase (or detonation). I'm not sure how effective it is or actaul hp increase. Probably not much difference at full throttle, but I'm hoping it helps the mileage a bit.

Ted
 

Jerome Sparich

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My car has a catch can after an electric vacuum pump that is hooked to the valve cover causing a vacuum in the crankcase. This raises the "effective" compression ratio gaining hp, while NOT causing an actual compression increase (or detonation). I'm not sure how effective it is or actaul hp increase. Probably not much difference at full throttle, but I'm hoping it helps the mileage a bit.

Ted

That vac pump helps with ring seal, which in turn helps with hp and tq.
 

1TONY1

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I am thinking of just putting it inline before the tubing goes into the airbox.


Here is a linkeBay Motors: Red Reservoir Oil Catch Tank Can SRT4 CORVETTE VIPER GT (item 370018405611 end time Feb-05-08 15:51:15 PST)

How are you going to do that ? I only see the top as the inlet and the bottom as the drain. The way I read your thought is to put it in-line which would take an in and out. If you only had an in and not doing inline then you still need a vent.

Also, if you need a sight tube on your oil catch can (puke tank) maybe you need rings first :D

I searched a bit and ended up with this one. But beware of any puke tank with a vent/filter, it can get smell into the cockpit. I will probably fix mine back with a hose pulling the fumes back into the intake and then put the filter back on for drag racing etc.
This unit could be stand alone or inline since there are two fittings plus a vent.

JEGS 52200 - JEGS Oil Breather Tanks - JEGS
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Another option is to get the Roe billet aluminum adaptor that takes the place of the oil fil cap. Then run the hose back to the stock air box. I usually put a small filter on the IAC and use the pass side of the airbox for the hose from the valve cover. Then when drag racing etc. remove the hose and put the little filter on.
Roe Racing Crankcase Breather Assembly - All Vipers - Air & Fuel Delivery - Roe Racing
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KenH

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The Jeg's unit posted above is the one I am using. I think there is some value in mounting vented catch cans on the drivers side to keep it away from the cabin air intake for the reason Tony mentioned, though it's a little less convenient to find a spot to mount it.
 
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SYNFULL

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How are you going to do that ? I only see the top as the inlet and the bottom as the drain. The way I read your thought is to put it in-line which would take an in and out. If you only had an in and not doing inline then you still need a vent.

Also, if you need a sight tube on your oil catch can (puke tank) maybe you need rings first :D

I searched a bit and ended up with this one. But beware of any puke tank with a vent/filter, it can get smell into the cockpit. I will probably fix mine back with a hose pulling the fumes back into the intake and then put the filter back on for drag racing etc.
This unit could be stand alone or inline since there are two fittings plus a vent.

JEGS 52200 - JEGS Oil Breather Tanks - JEGS
You must be registered for see images attach


Another option is to get the Roe billet aluminum adaptor that takes the place of the oil fil cap. Then run the hose back to the stock air box. I usually put a small filter on the IAC and use the pass side of the airbox for the hose from the valve cover. Then when drag racing etc. remove the hose and put the little filter on.
Roe Racing Crankcase Breather Assembly - All Vipers - Air & Fuel Delivery - Roe Racing
You must be registered for see images

Tony- the catch can that I am referring to has 2 inlets at the top. You can't see them in the pic.
Gary
 

Kevan

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I'm having an issues with my current catch can, so I figured I'd revive this thread and ask a few questions.

- 2005 Ram SRT-10
- N/A
- 28K mi.
- Daily Driver

My current setup clogs (badly) and has done so several times. During one long road trip, it actually spewed out of the breather and into the engine bay. That was fun to clean up.

The level indicator tube is pretty much worthless after the first time oil/gunk comes in contact with it. It turns dark brown and is almost impossible to use as any sign that it's time to empty the can.
I've tried cleaning it several times (works for about 4 days), and also replacing it (works for about 7 days).

I empty the catch can after every 2 fill-ups. After the last one, not a single drop came out. I knew that it had clogged again. I removed the catch can, and took off the petcock/drain.
Here's what I found:
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Another shot showing the 'gunk' clogging the drain:
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On the left side of the pic, you can see the chunk of 'gunk' that popped out after I put the air hose to it (about 40 psi):
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Overall shot, but most of the real oily/watery stuff drained:
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I've read that some folks want a SMALLER catch can than those normally offered. The one I have is VERY small.
I think that the size of your catch can depends on the amount of driving you do: More regular miles = larger catch can.

What I believe I need is a catch can/breather setup that separates the semi-solids from the vapor and moisture: A drain for the moisture; a 'cup' for the semi-solids.

I've searched all over including Jeg's, Summit, and a few other V8 friendly places.
I've also checked with pretty much all the Viper-friendly places.
Nothing.

If anyone has any suggestions, I'd appreciate it.
 

Purdue_Boiler_Viper

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I have oil in my cc after every drive, and I empty it. What is the diameter of the hose(s) you are using? Perhaps small hoses are part of the problem?
 

Purdue_Boiler_Viper

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Have you ever changed your oil? :D Just kidding. I'm using 1/2 inch ID aeroquip, so ID should not be a problem. What tubing are you using? Any chance the oil is breaking it down?
 

Kevan

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Have you ever changed your oil? :D Just kidding. I'm using 1/2 inch ID aeroquip, so ID should not be a problem. What tubing are you using? Any chance the oil is breaking it down?
You have to change the oil??!??
Just kidding: DIY: Oil Change - .:SRTConnection:.
:D

The tubing is high quality and fuel/oil safe. I'm 99.9% sure that's not causing any of the problems.
 

Kevan

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DAMN YANKEE

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I got to admit that this thread is confusing as heck.

I think the question is "how do you install this on a Viper", well you sure don't do it as a pass thru unit.
You have to install it as a dead stop drain tank.

As to how to properly install one of the many variations of a great unit for a Viper, become a VCA memer and then sign on and then look in the Illustrated Guides as there is a detailed complete installation with lots of photos.
 

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