WARNING: Beware of Roe Hoses with Bleeder Valve

Just the facts:



I just finished installing 3.73 gears, Unitrax speedometer calibration box, and Unitrax half shafts on my car. I was out with the wife checking the speedometer calibration I had just set on the box. Getting on the interstate I floored it in second gear through fourth gear. When I shifted into sixth gear we noticed a very strong coolant odor. I pulled over at the next exit and sure enough the entire backside of the engine compartment was covered in coolant (I'd guess a few pints). It was everywhere and smoke was rolling off the engine, firewall, and front of the sidesills.

So, I purchased a wrench and screwdriver at the gas station and started disassembling the car, including wipers, windshield visor, and wiper motors. I still couldn't find the source. I cleaned and searched but still nothing. I decided to start the car and immediately saw coolant streaming out of the base of the bleeder valve on the Roe Racing hose.

Since I was only about 5 miles from my house I stuffed several paper towels under the hose (just above the left coil pack) and wrapped it in temporary repair tape (duct tape). I limped home, keeping he engine RPM below 2,000 the entire ride.

To be clear, the valve was not loose and I have observed no prior damage or issues with this area. The hose was installed almost a year ago (4,000 miles). The car is a '94.

Here are some pictures:

First, the area as it appeared when I got home. Note the area wrapped in black tape with saturated towels underneath:



Second, a closeup of the area under the leaking hose showing the left coil pack covered in coolant:



Third, the completely soaked towels that got me home:



Fourth, a photo of the offending hose and valve. The white crap on the red hose is residual adhesive from the repair tape:



Fifth, slightly pressing the valve toward the engine block the tear in the hose is apparent:

 

Like I said, just the facts. I'm not bashing Roe Racing in any way. I'm just presenting exactly what happened to me.

If I found out others had this problem and they didn't tell everyone I would feel this board isn't serving the purpose of helping us properly maintain safe and reliable cars. I just posted this information so others could be informed.

Purdue: I'm sure Roe would replace the hose if I was interested. I've done my fair share of business with them and have been happy with everything to date.

DAMN YANKEE: I'll be replacing this hose with a stock piece. The rest of the Roe hoses will stay since they look nice and I think this failure was isolated to the bleeder valve installation.

 

just went over the car, it was definitely the bleeder valve that failed, and the valve itself was still screwed in tight. I also noticed the entire underside of the car and a substantial part of the back were covered in antifreeze!!!

 

I guess it was an isolated incident, which is good for everyone but me.

 

true. if I wouldn't have been so close to home I would have been riding on a flatbed.

most of those mods were simply replacing parts that broke, like old hoses, worthless stock half shafts, and a POS radiator that was built to leak.

 

UPDATE:

here's a closeup of the offending valve. it seems pretty obvious to me that the reason the hose failed is the saw-like washer that is used to hold it in:



THE FIX:

I went to NAPA and dug through their hoses as Chuck Tator suggested. I bought P/N NBH 8626, the upper radiator hose for a 1985 Ford F600 with a 370 c.i. V-8 for the reasonable sum of $14.29 plus tax. One of the bends in the tube was within a few degrees of being perfect. I cut the hose and installed it on the car. Fits great, no leaks!

Made several full-throttle pulls through the gears and everything is working great (I love these new 3.73 gears).

BTW, the OEM hose costs approximately $140, so that wasn't an option.

 

definitely try this fix then. the whole thing was real simple and you can't even see the hose, so the color doesn't matter.

 

Didn't call him. I really didn't want to replace the hose with the same thing because (this is solely my opinion and is not meant to bash Roe Racing) I think the valve is an unnecessary weakness in the hose. Since I wasn't interested in replacing the part with the same, there wasn't much he could do for me.

I really don't want to hurt Sean's business because supplying aftermarket replacements for expensive and hard-to-find OEM parts is necessary to the future of the VIPER. If people start slamming manufacturers for stepping-up to replace obsolete parts we are all doomed. I am very happy with the other four hoses that came in the kit for my Gen I and they will stay on the car. I'm also happy with the Unitrax half shafts, Unitrax speedometer calibration box, silicone smooth tubes, S&B filters, and shift knob I purchased from him.

 

good point. they are great about responding to emails, I'll forward them a link to this post.

I kinda figured they would have seen this by now, I've seen them posting on here before.

 

yeah, I sent it to him also.

 

Re: Roe Hoses with Bleeder Valve

Sean, thanks for the reply. The radiator cap is the anode cap that I bought from you with the hoses. Is there a way to test it? It must have opened because my overflow/catch container in front of the front right wheel was empty (I had just checked the level and slightly topped it off the day prior).

I can send the hose but I'm not sure how much help it will be since I pulled the valve out to take the picture above.