Engine Mods...

Matt162

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Hey guys, After the new year kicks in im going to be looking to do something to the v10 for a little more power, What do you guys recommend?

Im not looking for turbos, more towards the idea of a Cam, some head work, and a tune..whats everyones opinions?

My car: 2006 First Edition Coupe
Corsa Catbacks, Hennessey Polished Intake
 

97snk

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Greg Good for your head/cam needs...he's a sponsor on here...
 

pumpgas

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I would not waste any money on a cam or headwork. You'll spend several thousand dollars on that. Just get a paxton, add an easy and relatively speaking safe 200 hp and you'll be much happier with the car with no negative change in drivability whatsoever.
 

JAY

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Arrow Racing does GEN 4 Heads and intake ,that fit on the Gen 3 motor. Uses the Gen 3 throttle body ! Ask for Todd . :2tu: I believe in the range of 650 hp at the crank. :)
 

mbccenter

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Greg good heads and cam
1.7 roller rockers
M&M Performance headers

That should make a big difference..
 

NI-KA

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It depends on your purpose. Conventional wisdom would be to stick to Naturally Aspirated mods for lots of road course driving. If you crave alot of insane crazy horsepower then maybe a supercharger. As others will tell you here you need to decide what your purpose is before you start.

Don't forget about maintenance and reliability in your consideration. Certain mods can possibly require greater regular maintenance and therefore you will want to guage your personal tolerance for more maintenance.
 

georgethedog

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Lots of wisedom in this post:

It depends on your purpose. Conventional wisdom would be to stick to Naturally Aspirated mods for lots of road course driving. If you crave alot of insane crazy horsepower then maybe a supercharger. As others will tell you here you need to decide what your purpose is before you start.

Don't forget about maintenance and reliability in your consideration. Certain mods can possibly require greater regular maintenance and therefore you will want to guage your personal tolerance for more maintenance.
 

Dan Cragin

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There are numerous options depending on your power level and budget. I would be happy to spend the time going over all these with you so you can make the right choice. There are many vendors here with great products, it is the combination that counts.
 

treesnake

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It depends on your purpose. Conventional wisdom would be to stick to Naturally Aspirated mods for lots of road course driving. If you crave alot of insane crazy horsepower then maybe a supercharger. As others will tell you here you need to decide what your purpose is before you start.

Don't forget about maintenance and reliability in your consideration. Certain mods can possibly require greater regular maintenance and therefore you will want to guage your personal tolerance for more maintenance.

Well said....:)

Depends on how/where you use your car.
 

Twister

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Interestingly you can find out much more abour our engines by visiting the srt 10 truck forums...same engine just a cheaper package and seemingly more people pushing the limits na....

you can have your dealer install a competition coupe camshaft and have a custom sct tune done by any of the well known vendors here. this will take a stock 440 rwhp gen 3 viper up to 465 rwhp..add your basic intake/exhaust/headers and you are at an honest 515 rwhp and your car will still drive and idle like stock....

or you can install the roe racing srt10 racing camshaft and beehive springs with 600 lift and a custom sct tune. this will take a 440 rwhp srt10 tp an honest 510 rwhp...add your basic intake/headers/exhaust and you are at 560 rwhp

A 2005 viper with this cam and supporting mods hit 575 rwhp. of course drivability will be hindered
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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I like to stay N/A. Adding more components like turbos and superchargers adds more maintanence and since I do most of my own work I perfer not to spend time moving stuff out of the way to get to what I need to work on. I also prefer road racing to drag and no matter how you slice it a N/A motor will spend more time on the track than a F/I motor.
 

Twister

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Couldnt agree more. No way in the world would I FI a viper...My supercharged camaro engine went after only two years with the supercharger and my supercharged nsx engine went after 5 years with the supercharger...

Your always concerned over oil flow or excessive heat..Or you just keep pushing the limits with a bigger interkooler..Smaller pulley..Pulling Timing ect trying to squeeze that extra 50 rwhp out of your supercharger and then BAM...Engines gone after only 18 mpnths.

I know plenty of people have ran FI vipers no problem but never the less you add heads/cam/springs/tune and then just 100% completely forget about it and enjoy the car and the extra 150 rwhp...get better gas milage and lose maybe 40 rwhp when the engine is hot from hot lapping ect. verses the 75 rwhp you loose from heat FI.

My head/cammed vette with an extra 100 rwhp was the most reliable car I ever had...My FI cars were nightmares.
 

Twister

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Hey guys, After the new year kicks in im going to be looking to do something to the v10 for a little more power, What do you guys recommend?

Im not looking for turbos, more towards the idea of a Cam, some head work, and a tune..whats everyones opinions?

My car: 2006 First Edition Coupe
Corsa Catbacks, Hennessey Polished Intake

Did you talk to Roe racing yet..I was amazed at what kinda power they got with there raceing cam/behive springs/sct tune package. The price is amazeing and theve done lots of srt10 cars and trucks to back up their claims....Cam only you can gain 70 rwhp. Cam and bolt ons some have picked up 100 rwhp...heads and cam is 700 Bumper HP.

engine note
710 Camshaft, 03-06 Vipers / 04-06 Ram SRT-10 - Camshaft and Valvetrain - Roe Racing
 

Ripper

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JonB

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I always ask an owner "why do you 'want more HP' ?"

If the answer is simply "to go faster" I then suggest that you SAVE about $6k-$10k and first consider GEARS. Re-gear the HP you have. Do you need to go 62 mph in 1st, whilst 5th and 6th are LAME? If you can give up going 160+ then a 3:73 will "feel" like 115HP...... a 3:55 feels like 85 HP. The additional free bonus is quicker braking...something that HP does not provide.

Ditto for a lighter flywheel. These 2 mods dont affect runability, or make you crack your motor open. But side-by-side to an expensively-modded car they perform competitively! And for 10% of the cost

But you have to plan ahead: You DONT want 3:73 if you do extensive headwork or a S/C. You could choose 3:55 or 3:33 respectively....
 

Canyon707

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I always ask an owner "why do you 'want more HP' ?"

If the answer is simply "to go faster" I then suggest that you SAVE about $6k-$10k and first consider GEARS. Re-gear the HP you have. Do you need to go 62 mph in 1st, whilst 5th and 6th are LAME? If you can give up going 160+ then a 3:73 will "feel" like 115HP...... a 3:55 feels like 85 HP. The additional free bonus is quicker braking...something that HP does not provide.

Ditto for a lighter flywheel. These 2 mods dont affect runability, or make you crack your motor open. But side-by-side to an expensively-modded car they perform competitively! And for 10% of the cost

But you have to plan ahead: You DONT want 3:73 if you do extensive headwork or a S/C. You could choose 3:55 or 3:33 respectively....
I can't agree with Jon more. Why is the perfect question and to mod the engine is like all higher performance engines. It's only a matter of time before something goes array. I did the 3.73 gears and it turned the car into a rocket ship at the bottom end. I then went to 3.55 gears and was also impressed with the driveability of this gear. As I begin this years Summit Bracket Racing I am sticking with the 3.55 as the shifting points are about as close as I can get. Something in the 3.64 range would probably be best for my car in the quarter mile but, as far as I know that is not available. I added a few bolt-ons but, the improvements were nothing like the gear change.:2tu:
 

plumcrazy

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canyon, im sure if you ever did this, it would be on a track but with the 355, what are the top speeds in 4th and 5th gear roughly ? any idea ?
 

345s-bspinnin

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canyon, im sure if you ever did this, it would be on a track but with the 355, what are the top speeds in 4th and 5th gear roughly ? any idea ?

Plum, check out my thread on gears/speed: CLICK ME

I am certain that Canyon707 knows exactly what his top speed is for any final gear ratio, I provided him with the raw file ;)
 

dipapa

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Ive had various motor configuration to my 05 Copperhead...stock, bolt ons, tune, paxton, vec3, more bolt ons, built motor, sct...installing & testing many different bolt ons in the evolution process here as well.

One of my favorite setups were stock motor + basic bolt ons + dyno tune..520rwhp

My ultimate favorite, what i have now, built motor + good heads & cam + good dyno/road tune....650rwhp. its nice to have the motor more than comfortably handle this power with complete reliability. With built motor, costs go up and everything must be perfect so therefore a motor pro is a further stones throw away.

I personally didnt like the Paxton, it was making over 700rwhp on dyno and honestly it didnt feel as lively as my built motor now. The Paxton throttle response wasnt that good for some unknown reason however everything on motor was running real good from tuning, dyno, mechanical standpoint.

With the Paxton, I agree with a the others in this thread commenting about the poor feel of the Paxton setup regardless of the high dyno numbers

http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-srt10-coupe-discussions/642043-supercharger-srt10-08-a.html

From comments made in the above post, part may be due to rear gearing that made Paxton have a less than mediocre "seat of the pants" feel. I had 3.33 rears and car still didnt feel like 720rwhp and i had very aggresive timing map... Paxton car only felt fast when at WOT and for brief rpms going from 4500-6000 WOT. Part throttle sucked for a 700rwhp car, and like i said above everything mechanically & electronically was running good and if it wasnt, it sure couldnt be found. everything with tuning, codes, A/F wideband & boost gauge sure looked good. Maybe it was the BBK TB holding it back, but paxton throttle response just felt lackluster... That BBK TB was the worst Viper mod ever!

With a S/C we have more hp, but we really only have more hp under boost, so lower rpms & part throttle dont count. Add this to the viper slower winding motor...so a little of all of that hp delays add up. I dont drive at WOT often, but thats just me.

Paxton performance also deterioted quickly as motor heat soak developed and it sure was noticeable on mildly hot days. A car with that must hp should be insane fast in any rpms...anywhere & anytime...no excuses.

With the paaxton you just really need to lay into the throttle allot to feel the power which is contrary to what my idea of 700rwhp should be.

With the Paxton, The front end was also 100lbs heavier ahead the front wheels and handling suffered some.

Becoming more of a purist I also no longer believe there is any reason to have Forced Induction on an 505 cube motor unless your interested in 1000+hp

Shops are doing 620+ on good heads and cam and bolt ons with stock motor... thats good power, but everythings relative so ultimaltely depends on what the owners performance goals really are. Thats a tough question in itself sometimes.

I would personally pick the good heads & cam and tune make everything as perfect as can be using the best vipers shops around and be satisfied with that. Sure the heads & cam may prove more dollar per hp than the paxton however we should consider what really makes a good motor too.
 
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plumcrazy

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built motor paxtons are much different i guess. i put down over 750 rwTQ at 3500 rpms....

on a stock motor/paxton i was at ~ 550 rwTQ with a bad tune and it blew on the next run.
 

dipapa

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built motor paxtons are much different i guess. i put down over 750 rwTQ at 3500 rpms....

on a stock motor/paxton i was at ~ 550 rwTQ with a bad tune and it blew on the next run.

Im sure a built paxton is a huge difference over a stock paxton.

More boost means more boost at even lower rpms.

combine that with a real good tune, must be a winner!

As long as my all motors running strong im satisfied
 

Canyon707

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canyon, im sure if you ever did this, it would be on a track but with the 355, what are the top speeds in 4th and 5th gear roughly ? any idea ?
Since I do most of my speeding on the drag strip not the track I honestly can't say that I have driven 174.4 mph in 5th gear or even 129 in 4th.
thats what it says it can do per the chart. I run my car on the information I get from Crew Chief Pro drag racing software and a few other things I look at like the gear ratio spreadsheet that was mentioned before. I run mostly stock motor with just a few boltons. I do have OS Giken 3.55 diff from Unitrax and a twin disk CF clutch and a steel flywheel but, a bit lighter than stock> I run M&H Racemaster Radials 28 dia. @18 lbs I have a launch and shift light and the modifry audible shift set at 1500,1000,500 rpms prior to shifting at 5500. I should peak at 129 mph at the top of 4th gear. I usually run into the traps at 119 11.85, is the range I run in some days lower somedays higher it's all about the weather. but, with the 373 gears I was at the top before the traps. Needing the next gear by just maybe 100' So It seems my biggest hp is @ 5400 to 5500 rpm. So my thoughts would be a differential ratio between the two. Trying to peak out in the top area of 4th. I am certainly open to any suggestions. Not sure if that answered your question.
 

Canyon707

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thanks.

those charts never seem to relate to real world.
I think any more you have to take almost everything with a grain of salt unless your the one behind the wheel. It is an interesting chart since you can play with many different configurations and in the transmissin and diff gear setups. Have you seen it or have it?
 
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