170 degree thermostat ?

Olddudesrule

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From my days on the Z06 and Cobra forums, and now here, I've read countless threads on this subject. I'm no expert, but it seems all your really doing is allowing the thermostat open earlier, and thereby causing the engine to take longer (how much longer?) to achieve full operating temp. I believe it's gonna reach the same temp ultimately, regardless of when the thermostat opens, so what are you really accomplishing?

I also believe FI motors generally run hotter than carbed motors anyway, and do so partly for a more complete burn of the fuel. I just don't see a viable reason to change to a lower stat.:dunno:

My .02 cents.
 

plumcrazy

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big brake dave (now jonb) is where i got mine a few years ago.

might have been a 172 deg ?
 

Slypopsracing

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I bought a 170* TS from Roe Racing during the winter when my 04 runs so much better at night. I have not installed because I know the cooler intake air made the hp, not the water circulating in the waterjacket, BUT I STILL READ EVER POST on the subject....
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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+1 what olddude said. I would only replace it if the original was bad and then I might go with a cooler stat. But I wouldn't make a project out of it if I didn't have to.
 

Leslie

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What chuck said!

If you are having temp issues there are other things you might consider like using a combination of water/water wetter/coolant and cleaning out your radiator.
 

luc

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The statement on the website ( Our 170 degree thermostat allows the engine to operate cooler) is very misleading.
A Tstat only control the minimum coolant temperature, not the maximum.
Maximum coolant temperature is controlled by the BTU capacity of the cooling system.
 

ViperTony

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I installed the Roe 172 degree t-stat and it did nothing for me. I believe TomF&L once said that installing a lower degree t-stat is "...like opening the window a little earlier in the a.m. on a hot muggy day" or something like that. Rather than waste time and money on a t-stat invest in an SCT tune which also turns on your fan at a lower temp.
 
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Next Phase

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Thanks for all the input....

My water pump went out on me and I replaced it, but the car still runs a little warm at times. Typically at 190 when just cruising around, but has gone up to 200 to 210 - normal from what I have read.
 

JonB

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Thanks for all the input....

My water pump went out on me and I replaced it, but the car still runs a little warm at times. Typically at 190 when just cruising around, but has gone up to 200 to 210 - normal from what I have read.

Exactly correct, as with what most everyone said above..... especially Olddude and Tom FlogOr. Not broke don't fix. Spend more time burping air out of your motor.. and keeping it out.

If you have a modified computer or a HIGHLY-modified vehicle some of those might benefit from a 170, but not generally a stock viper....
 

1TONY1

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The statement on the website ( Our 170 degree thermostat allows the engine to operate cooler) is very misleading.
A Tstat only control the minimum coolant temperature, not the maximum.
Maximum coolant temperature is controlled by the BTU capacity of the cooling system.

But if the coolant system "IS" capable of a lower temperature than a 170 will allow the engine to operate cooler. So it can in effect control the max temp too. If the coolant system is not capable, it will give it a head start.
I would recommend them to anyone having the intake off. I would do it either way on my car.
One issue is that the fans will still come on at the normal time so sitting still it may not help, moving down the road it should help lower temps.
 

vancouver-gts

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You could remove the T-stat completely but the engine will still reach the operating temperature [ a lot longer ] controlled by the computer turning the fan on and off.I've installed 140* T-stats for my computer controlled engines in my boat and it keeps the temp lower ,hence no thermostatic fans.You could add a temp controller for the fan though if you wish.
 

plumcrazy

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But if the coolant system "IS" capable of a lower temperature than a 170 will allow the engine to operate cooler. So it can in effect control the max temp too. If the coolant system is not capable, it will give it a head start.
I would recommend them to anyone having the intake off. I would do it either way on my car.
One issue is that the fans will still come on at the normal time so sitting still it may not help, moving down the road it should help lower temps.

THIS plus a DC tune and change on when the fans kick on will work IMO
 

RED GTS

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1st - CONGRATS to ViperTony for winning the NVE Viper. Lucky dude !!

I run a TWIN SUPERCHARGED set up and I run way to hot most of the time (220++). Want to change the 190 degree to 170 but wondering if that will affect the SC's. I blew a water pump gasket out from being to hot on the way home from purchasing this beast. As long as apart, replaced the water pump as well.

Someone mentioned using a "wetter-wet" coolant. Never heard of such a thing.

I already have a water/air burp valve installed from the prior owner but not a clue how to use it or what to do.

Any advice appreciated ~~ Thanks guys
 

speedracervr4

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A cooler thermostat will not really make a huge difference. I would remove the radiator and have it looked over and rodded by a radiator shop(if it's original then it's probably 14 yrs+ old ). Did you burp it after the water pump installation? Maybe add pusher fans to overcome the added heat from the twin superchargers.
 

Luisv

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OK.... here's my two cents.... or fraction thereof... ;-)

the stock t-stat is a 195, if I am not mistaken. Dropping in a 170 degree t-stat is just going to open the engine to coolant flow sooner. As mentioned, if you have a coolant system problem.... for example, air in the system (unlikely if you drive it often as the system self purges - might not be perfect, but it will happen) or damage radiator, the car will still run hotter at it's max. However, if everything else is fine... the car will run with a more "constant" temperature if the t-stat temp is lower.

The Viper has a 195 degree t-stat. When I had mine in the car in Florida, 95 degree heat, no breeze in the summer, high humidity, etc. when driving around town, averaging 50 MPH, stopping from time to time at a light, for example, the car runs at about 190 to 210 degrees. This is normal. What happens is that the temp will move up and down as you cycle through the t-stat opening and closing. The reason is if the water is not moving through the engine it will cool down more and more as it travels through the radiator. When the t-stat opens... cooler water comes in, temp drops 20 degrees. If I was on the highway at 65 (that's my story and I'm sticking to it) the car would would cycle up and down as well but the swing was lower. It was basically about half the move that we would see in the city.

With the 170 t-stat in the car the car stills cycles in the in-town traffic but now because of air flow over the radiator. However, it cycles from about 180 degrees to just under the 210 degree range. On the highway, with constant airflow through the radiator, the car will hold in the 180 degree range steady. It will not hit 190 degrees at all. I just drove Miami to Orlando and back this weekend (500 mile round trip) and that's how it ran.

Bottom line, the lower t-stat will keep the engine running cooler overall because the coolant flows sooner. So if there is going to be a 30 to 40 degree swing (normal) in the temp range when driving, it will be from 180 (more or less) to 210 as opposed to 195 to 225. If you are on the track, heavy load, the temp will still max out higher, regardless of the t-stat, but under normal driving... it will run cooler.
 

viperman4125

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I'm with you brother, I live on the West coast of Fl. and have the same problem,
OK.... here's my two cents.... or fraction thereof... ;-)

the stock t-stat is a 195, if I am not mistaken. Dropping in a 170 degree t-stat is just going to open the engine to coolant flow sooner. As mentioned, if you have a coolant system problem.... for example, air in the system (unlikely if you drive it often as the system self purges - might not be perfect, but it will happen) or damage radiator, the car will still run hotter at it's max. However, if everything else is fine... the car will run with a more "constant" temperature if the t-stat temp is lower.

The Viper has a 195 degree t-stat. When I had mine in the car in Florida, 95 degree heat, no breeze in the summer, high humidity, etc. when driving around town, averaging 50 MPH, stopping from time to time at a light, for example, the car runs at about 190 to 210 degrees. This is normal. What happens is that the temp will move up and down as you cycle through the t-stat opening and closing. The reason is if the water is not moving through the engine it will cool down more and more as it travels through the radiator. When the t-stat opens... cooler water comes in, temp drops 20 degrees. If I was on the highway at 65 (that's my story and I'm sticking to it) the car would would cycle up and down as well but the swing was lower. It was basically about half the move that we would see in the city.

With the 170 t-stat in the car the car stills cycles in the in-town traffic but now because of air flow over the radiator. However, it cycles from about 180 degrees to just under the 210 degree range. On the highway, with constant airflow through the radiator, the car will hold in the 180 degree range steady. It will not hit 190 degrees at all. I just drove Miami to Orlando and back this weekend (500 mile round trip) and that's how it ran.

Bottom line, the lower t-stat will keep the engine running cooler overall because the coolant flows sooner. So if there is going to be a 30 to 40 degree swing (normal) in the temp range when driving, it will be from 180 (more or less) to 210 as opposed to 195 to 225. If you are on the track, heavy load, the temp will still max out higher, regardless of the t-stat, but under normal driving... it will run cooler.
 
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