170 thermo
- Thread starter 622r109
- Start date
Racer Robbie
Enthusiast
In theory yes you can but it will not work properly. You need the DC Tune to reset the temperature that the fan comes on otherwise your fan will not come on until at least 200 degrees which could fry your thermostat on a really hot day. Part of the DC Tune sets the fan to come on a a lower temperature so that the engine runs at a max of 180 degrees . The DC Tune also extends the fans cycle time so it runs longer and it also runs the fans at its max rpm whenever the A/C is turned on. One without the other is a waste of your time and money.
Robbie
Robbie
I have the 170 T on my RT/10 without a reflash. It opens up at 170 degrees as opposed to the stock T. As TomF&L once said: it's like opening up the windows a little earlier on a hot day (or something to that effect 
) but its still going to stay hot. The fan still comes on at ~ 200 degrees. Without the fan coming on at a lower temperature, I agree with Robbie, it's useless. I wish I could just get the fan temperature reprogrammed and not have to reflash the rest of the controller.
) but its still going to stay hot. The fan still comes on at ~ 200 degrees. Without the fan coming on at a lower temperature, I agree with Robbie, it's useless. I wish I could just get the fan temperature reprogrammed and not have to reflash the rest of the controller.Racer Robbie
Enthusiast
ViperTony,
I have a controller in the works that I was working on but I shelved it as I did not have time to finish it. It would use an adjustable fan control which would piggyback to the fan control relay. If there was enough interest here I would finish the project. The control is finished but I did not see a need after the DC Reflash came out. It is up to the members here if they are interested.
Robbie
I have a controller in the works that I was working on but I shelved it as I did not have time to finish it. It would use an adjustable fan control which would piggyback to the fan control relay. If there was enough interest here I would finish the project. The control is finished but I did not see a need after the DC Reflash came out. It is up to the members here if they are interested.
Robbie
Keith, do you have this installed on your Viper? Is it worth it? I assume this only works when the car is running. In other words, it probably won't come on after the inginition is turned off like Roe's fan control kit. I have Roe's kit installed now and works for helping with heat soak after the ignition is turned off. The SPAL might be worth a shot.
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That's cool. Was this for an SRT, RT/10 or both?
Racer Robbie
Enthusiast
I do not think the Spal unit will work with the SRT hydraulic fan. The ECM controls a relay that turns the hydraulic fan on. The trick is to use a Adjustable Fan Control to bypass the ECM harness at the relay. The unit I was working on uses it's own temperature probe. It attached where the harness from the ECM to the relay is. There is quite a bit of wiring involved but it is straight forward. This control can be used on any electric fan or electrically activated hydraulic fan.
Robbie
Robbie
The SPAL unit would be cumbersome to install...you'd have to basically disconnect the PCM fan control wires from the relays and splice the SPAL wires into the relays. Problem is that there doesn't appear to be any wiring from the SPAL unit that controls the low/hi speed fan relay. I called SPAL today and their controller was intended to be used only with their SPAL fans. Also, the controller can support a max draw of 30 AMPs and I believe the Gen II fans require at least 40 AMPs.
Knight Viper
Viper Owner
Some guys take the fist setting of the AC control away from the compressor and use it to turn on the fan manually from the cockpit (allowing you to be able to turn on the fan whenever you want by selecting the first AC position) and then if you want AC you just use the the last notch.
That sounds perfect and simple...I think I'll try it. Thanks! - Tony
Dave's Big Brakes
Enthusiast
well,
Tony, if you do it take pictures for an upgrade, when it comes to wiring I **** I'm good with a lot of stuff but electical bites me 
Everyone needs to have this feature
Big Brake Dave
LOL...I ordered some connectors and wires today...I definitely need to try this. At least wire a toggle switch to the cockpit or tap into the AC controls. I'll keep you posted. Right now...I have my interior ripped out and I'm installing heat shielding from SecondSkin step by step. Sorry I didn;t return your call yesterday, I was in the garage sweating my *** off. I'm tired of feeling like one of those rotissery chickens baking in the Viper every summer. Seriously, I had a lot of heat blowing through the shifter today and, at first I took off the console, but I couldn't stop there... so I decided to insulate the whole cockpit.
Dave: When are you going to have seat lowering kits for us?...or a cool trunk mat?
- Tony
so I decided to insulate the whole cockpit. Dave: When are you going to have seat lowering kits for us?
...or a cool trunk mat? - Tony
No Tony, I don't and it doesn't look like I will after reading your later post. How the hell can it only handle 30 amps when it's supposed to work with their fans? I had two of their 1630 cfm fans on one of my other cars and they drew more than 30 amps.
Keith, it looks like their fans don't require more than 30 amps. If using a second fan, it also has to be fused seperately using one of their fan harnesses in conjunction with the controller. I ordered one before I found out about the wiring/fuses. When I get it I may have to experiment a bit.
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