708 cam and adustable timing chain installation

[patagoniaman]

I finally got the parts down here. The adjustable timing chain comes in a Mopar box, but is't a Cloyes part. The cam must be drilled and tapped for a 3 bolt configuration. But the strange thing is the original cam gear has a half moon and opposite to it, two slots to tell the ECU tdc position. The new cam gear only has the half moon on the front face, but nothing else? Has anyone udesd it? Will I get error code from the ecu?
Gary

 

[XLR8]

I have put the adjustable timing set in two engines and it works fine. The stock cams need to be drilled but several aftermarket cams come drilled. I used one Crower cam and one Comp cam and they were both set up for the Cloyes timing set.

 

[revived_gearhead]

I had arrow racing drill my stock cam for the adjustable Cloyes gear. They do several of them.

 

[patagoniaman]

Maybe I'm misunderstood, the problem is not drilling the cam to the 3 bolt pattern , but the 2 extra slot marks found on the original cam sprocket that are missing on the Cloyes one. On the following link you can see that the original cam gear (still on the engine) has a half moon between 2 and 8 o'clock, and two slots at around 5 o'clock. Te Cloyes cam gear on the picture only has the half moon beteen 9 and 3. Will the computer still read TDC despite the original slots missing?

http://ar.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/angelitos66/slideshow?.dir=/b95bre2&.src=ph

 

[revived_gearhead]

The cloyes cam gear is designed for the cam sensor. Mine ran perfect.

 

[viperrt96]

Maybe I'm misunderstood, the problem is not drilling the cam to the 3 bolt pattern , but the 2 extra slot marks found on the original cam sprocket that are missing on the Cloyes one. On the following link you can see that the original cam gear (still on the engine) has a half moon between 2 and 8 o'clock, and two slots at around 5 o'clock. Te Cloyes cam gear on the picture only has the half moon beteen 9 and 3. Will the computer still read TDC despite the original slots missing?

Gary

Glad to see you are getting things together. Those marks do nothing for your TDC (cam position sensor) if that's what you are worried about. The High /low part of the cam gear is all that sensor needs to see. It creates the hall effect that corresponds with the crank sensor (middle of block) that initializes your coils and fires the cylinders. It's hard to describe the hall effect it creates unless you’ve seen it on an oscilloscope. I’m pretty sure those marks you are referring to are your alignment marks for cam to crank timing. If you still have the original cam in and the original timing gears you'll notice when you rotate the motor around (Be careful doing this with the heads off- the cylinder sleeves can lift out of the block) you will see those marks align up. The crank timing gear has a triangle symbol if I remember right. You'll see those marks only align up every two revolutions. The crank rotates twice to every one revolution on the cam gear. Don't worry about aligning those marks up to your new cam. No matter what you can not get the crank out 180 degrees like you think. Since you are using an adjustable timing gear I'm assuming you are degreeing your cam in. Without going in great detail on how to do this (this reply is long enough) you'll find true centerline of the crank once you put an indicator on the #1 piston (driver’s side-front). I never looked at my crank mark when I did mine. Besides you can't see the crank mark once you have the degree wheel on. See the following pic

I don't know where you are putting your cam in at but mine degreed in at 116 untouched. I advanced mine to 119 as Dan @ DC performance suggested. I did not use an adjustable because I modified my stock one. I can't tell (remember) if my cam gear had those same markings or not. The only important thing to do after you go back together with this is please use the paper spacer (.50 at the dealer) that attaches to your cam sensor when reinstalling your timing chain cover. A new sensor comes with that spacer. Put your finger in the hole (careful) rotate the motor around until you have the high spot up. It doesn't matter where on the high spot. Once you are there reinstall the cam sensor with the paper spacer attached. The paper spacer will come off the first time you start the motor. That spacer will best set the space it needs to correctly read the cam gear. I hope this helps. Good luck!

 

[patagoniaman]

Bill:
Thanks a lot! I din't want to continue when I noticed the difference between parts.
I'm also going 3 degrees advance.
Will post new HP numbers after assembly. Right now I'm at 384 DIN which is aronund 416 SAE at the rear wheels.
Regards

 

[GTS Bruce]

Am I remembering incorectly?Could be!If I remember correctly,retarding the cam bumps up the HP/Torque into a higher rpm range for racing applications and advancing the cam lowers the HP/torque lower into the driving range.I don't understand why anyone would want to lower the torque/HP peak lower than it is in stock configuration except for only a street driver with a little moore omph at lower rpm.Have I got it backwards or do the cam advancers have it backwards? GTS Bruce