'94 RT/10 with exhaust upgrade, dyno sheet and sounds, 402 RWHP, 477 FT LBS TQ..

[Sean Roe]

\'94 RT/10 with exhaust upgrade, dyno sheet and sounds, 402 RWHP, 477 FT LBS TQ..

Hi All,

Other than the dyno shop running out of white paper, everything went well today

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The bottom of the dyno sheet shows what we had done to the car. The exhaust has stock manifolds and tubes into the side sills. The high flow cats and mufflers are the ones in the "side exhaust upgrade interest?" post from a few days ago.

Let me know what you think.

Here are the sound links:
RT/10 with our high flow cats and side exhaust upgrade at idle

RT/10 full throttle dyno pull

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[Sean Roe]

Re: \'94 RT/10 with exhaust upgrade, dyno sheet and sounds, 402 RWHP, 477 FT LBS TQ..

For those tht may be wondering about dyno run 1 and 2, we ran the car with the dyno-jet air fuel meter in the exhaust and started the engine calibrator setting at +16/-8 (our previous settings before the exhaust changes). Our air/ fuel meter and the dyno jet meter both showed rich on run #1 at an a/f ratio of 12.5:1. Run #2 we dialed the high to a -14 which changed the a/f ratio to about 13:1 and picked up 5 hp, 6 ft lbs more torque. Run #3 we let the car cool down for 30 minutes and dialed the low to +12 for a final setting of +12/-14, which yielded another 8 hp and 7 ft lbs torque at an air/fuel ratio of 13.5:1. This is the best setting for the car with its current mods, giving it far improved throttle response, the highest HP and TQ numbers along with the smoothest driving.

 

[Sean Roe]

Re: \'94 RT/10 with exhaust upgrade, dyno sheet and sounds, 402 RWHP, 477 FT LBS TQ..

Yes, the manifolds and exhaust pipes were original up until the catalytic converter. I really can't answer your question with 100% accuracy (what the exhaust alone was worth) because of many factors (different dyno, hotter day, new head gaskets, never dyno'ed this car with stock exhaust). The best we can do at this time is compare it to other '94's.

To dyno test the high flow cats and muffler change alone correctly, I would need to dyno with the stock exhaust, remove and swap the exhaust (while still on the dyno), then dyno again. My goals in building the exhaust were to improve the sound, make a little more power, still pass emissions, reduce the side sill temperature and keep the cost down. As far as I can tell we accomplished those goals, though I cannot absolutely quantify the power gain the exhaust made. My estimate, approx 15 to 20 HP. Perhaps more depending on the condition of your stock cats, as they do flow less air the older they get.

 

[Vip-RT10]

Re: \'94 RT/10 with exhaust upgrade, dyno sheet and sounds, 402 RWHP, 477 FT LBS TQ..

Count me in for the Xenons and the exhaust then....happy Easter!

 

[Vip-RT10]

Re: \'94 RT/10 with exhaust upgrade, dyno sheet and sounds, 402 RWHP, 477 FT LBS TQ..

OK, since I really cannot compare the the numbers, what is the Hp gain and TQ? 8 and 7? And that is with stock headers, right? Please correct me if i'm wrong. I like the sound though......

 

[Sean Roe]

Re: \'94 RT/10 with exhaust upgrade, dyno sheet and sounds, 402 RWHP, 477 FT LBS TQ..

The VEC1 is a significant factor in why the '94 pulled those #'s with stock exhaust manifolds and the few mods it has. It's difficult to pinpoint what each part of the package was worth in creating the sum of the horsepower gain, but I'm happy with the net results.

In a lot of ways, the VEC1 is a better bang for the buck than headers alone. The VEC1 is $495 for the complete system and only takes about an hour to install. That looks pretty good compared to our price on Borla headers at $1,199, which take several hours to install for about the same power gain.

If you ever want to try a VEC1, give us a call. We give a 30 day money back satisfaction guarantee on the system. It will give you the ability and information to properly set the air/fuel ratio and spark advance from inside the car (kind of like adjusting the jets on a carb or adjusting a distributor, but without getting under the hood).

It's kind of fun to be able to use what all I've learned in racing to help improve our cars and see it work out in a positive way for everybody. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Sean Roe]

Re: \'94 RT/10 with exhaust upgrade, dyno sheet and sounds, 402 RWHP, 477 FT LBS TQ..

The conversion factor I use on Vipers is RWHPx11.5%+=flywheel HP. On the RT, that puts me in the "honest" 450 hp range. From what I figure, the higher the HP of the engine, the lower the driveline loss percentage becomes. If we were running a lower HP engine (V8 or V6) for example or automatics, the percentage would be higher. Some tuners use 15%, which would put the RT at over 460. Certainly possible, but I'm not trying to sell hype and would rather be on the conservative side.

Regarding the cats, this test was done using the smaller 2.5" round cats. Had I used the 3" ovals, the HP could have been a little higher, but I tipped the scales more toward the cooler side sill temperature side (honestly, no cats would have been the highest HP and coolest temps, but a little too loud for me). On our new website, we offer either 2.5" round or 3" oval at the same cost, buyer specifies which he wants.

Regarding the new 3" inlet / outlet 4"X5" oval cats, they're not available from our manufacturer yet. As soon as they're in, we'll test them and make them available. In the mean time, the 4"X6" ovals fit and we started cutting off the excess edges (where the two halves are welded together) to help gain a little more clearance, even though they fit with the edges in place on the ones we've done in the shop.

 

[Jack B]

Re: \'94 RT/10 with exhaust upgrade, dyno sheet and sounds, 402 RWHP, 477 FT LBS TQ..

Sean:

I have your ovals and the sills don't heat up - just get warm. Do you believe that there is a greater heat dissipation due to a larger volume of air surrounding the rounds. Wouldn't this be offset by a greater losses due to a lower efficiency.

It is amazing how cool the sills run with the 3" ovals. Could the headers be part of this. Another thing I've noticed is how the under-hood temp has dropped since the header addition. I have an infrared/laser surface thermometer. I will take readings at the sill surface for all the components and post them.