A must do - increase the performance of the suspension

Jack B

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About two weeks ago I posted about a problem that exists on most Gen2 cars. The problem deals with the two bushings that reside in the differential arms. Take a look at picture three or four and you can see the bushings.

The oem bushing consists of a hard rubber outer shell and an inner steel sleeve. The sleeve is a split shell. In the stock form there are two problems: the clearance between the bolt and the split sleeve is excessive; secondly, the split sleeve grows eliptical from the cars torque. The problem gets worst when they perform the frame recall. They use a 14mm bolt, however, the center of the bolt has a reduced diameter (where it contacts the bushing). Since it is loose, continued used only reduces (from banging)the bolt's diameter evern further.

What does this mean, it allows the suspension and the differential assembly to float independent of each other, therefore, not allowing the suspension to do its works. It also gives the differential a running start on the frame when you launch, as with slicks.

How much does it impact the car, that will depend, on my car the amount of float at the bolt was about 7/32", that tranlates into 21/32" of float on the outside of the car. It also means over 1" at the outside rear of the car. In other words your car can float that amount from on-torque to off-torque. On my car the right rear had always been higher than the left side when parked. I could not figure out why. After the bushing replacement the rear is now level.

Here is the picture of the stock bushing and the recall bolt.


699Oem_Bushing-med.jpg



The next picture is a modified C5 vette bushing. The bushing had a smaller inner ID and had to be reamed. The offset from front to back was wrong and had to be milled and then shimmed. The bolt also had to be replaced. It started out being simple, however, took a bit of work.

699Custom_Bushing-med.jpg


The next shot is a stock viper assembly. I had heard that several cars broke the differential assembly arms and Tony Armour told me about a fix. See the fourth photo for the actual fix and the reinforced arms.

699Oem_Diff_Assemb-med.jpg


699Boxed_Diff_Assemb-med.jpg
 
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Jack B

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Chuck:

nylon would be too rigid and transmit vibration into the car. These bushings have to both isolate and be tight fitting.

The part number was either a Prothane 1003 or 1008, I will try to track down the receipt, their catalog lacks some detail.
 

TOOOFST

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Fantastic info Super JACKSTER.
Being a top notch fab shop I should be installing those
rear end gusset plates,eh?
I haven't heard of anyone breaking them.How common is it?
Thanks JB
 
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Jack B

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Chuck:

I will build something like five sets and see if people are interested. It will take a while though. Personally, I wouldn't feel comfortable with the existing set-up on any Gen 2. Many cars are putting shocks and springs in their cars and they still have all that play between the suspension and the differential.
 

anton28

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very nice, is that part number you provided for the vett bushing a dealer partnumber? Also what kind of bolt did you use to replace the old one.

thank you.
 
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Jack B

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The Gen1 suspension is different yet similar. I will take a look at a Gen1 in the near future to see if they have the same problem. They won't suffer from the recall bolt issue. The replacement bolt (drivers side) is a Class 10.9 x 14mm. I will have to measure them, but, I am pretty sure that the oem bolt is 90mm, the recall bolt is 120mm and the one I used was 100mm. Dan (Final GTS) sells the bolts. You can also find them on the internet.

I won't be able to build any kits till late summer or fall, but, it will be a fairly inexpensive route to making the suspension as responsive as it should be. My guess is the kit could be put together for about $150.

Scotty:
I know of four cars that have broken the arms. I could be wrong, but, it sounds like SVS might have had the same issue recently, you might want to find out.
 

99 R/T 10

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Hey Jack,
Does the $150 include the cost of the cover and mod or do we send our cover to you to modify? I think I want one.
 

Joel

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This looks like an excellent mod and I would like to apply it to my GTS, however is the bolt not meant to act under tension to clamp the inner steel shell tightly into the chassis bracket thereby eliminating any movement. If the inner steel shell can move it will eventually fret and wear away the chassis at that point. It is not designed to move at all, the bolt is not actually a locator, merely a clamp.
 

Saint_Spinner

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Sweet. How does the car feel now?

P.S., is this something stock 2nd gen owners should be concerned about? Or is it the modified and SC'd ones?
 
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Jack B

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99RT10:
We are going to have to slow down a bit. I won't be able to get these done for some time. What i will do is put together a bill of material and look for some price breaks on materials. I can do this fairly quick, just give me a few weeks and I will have all the details together.

Joel:
You have some good points, but, I don't think the bolt moves that much. Take a look at the picture of the oem set-up. You can tell the inner sleeve was beating the bolt. The bolt actually has a reduced area near the end of the sleeve, where it was pounded by the sleeve. That worked area is from the end of the sleeve and inside the sleeve. If it was the reverse (the bolt beating the frame) there would be a cut or a recess in the bolt and that is not the case. I can only go by what I saw when I pulled it apart.

I'll go one step further, the sleeve was pounding the bolt to the point where it was opening the split in the sleeve. There was actually a fairly wide gap in the sleeve. If that sleeve came that way someone should be talked to.
 
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