AC Hose Install Help

[mad0953]

Been really hot here so been using the AC in the afternoons. Today it blew nothing but hot air...oh oh. A friend helped me find the cause. I have a major leak in the compressor to condenser discharge hose. Is this a DIY? I know I can get the hose from Tator but should I take it somewhere and have it fixed? Looks kinda hard. Who out there has done it and would you give me some pointers? Is there anything I can do that will make the new hose last longer? Should I replace the other hose down there as well? etc. Did a search and did dind the part # but that's all. Thanks in advance.

Mark

 

[dave6666]

Basic non-descript answer. AC work at that level takes special equipment and knowledge. Seek professional help from qualified tech. Does not need to be a Viper tech, but you need an AC person for sure. Good luck...

 

[RAYSIR]

I think if you can change a part you can change the hose. BUT the system will have to be evacuated( sucked into a vacuum) for about 45 minutes before Freon can be added. You can save money by changing the hose, no big deal, but you need the recycler for evacuate and charge. Don't!! recharge without evacuate after system has been open.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Yes, this is a low-budget example. Daughter's Intrepid had the compressor sieze. I bought an eBay used replacement. Upon disconnecting, I put something in the hose and compressor openings, knowing it would not seal, but simply to keep any airflow from happening. The density of r134a at atmospheric pressure is slightly higher than that of air, so tilt hoses up (think of it as water.) I replaced the compressor and reattached all the hoses. The compressor was obviously full of "air" and the rest of the system would be full of r143a. Now you add 3-4 cans of r134a and the percentage of mass of air is ridiculously small. No surprise, it works fine.

Similar job on the Viper - kept losing r143a to the point of adding a can every 6 weeks. The o-rings at the compressor get hot during use, harden, and eventually leak. I bought a set of universal AC compatible o-rings (about $2 for 20; Dodge charges $10 for 1) and did the same thing - replaced one at a time and made a reasonable attempt to keep the gaseous material in the system from "spilling" out or air getting in. It's not like the r134a is looking to escape, it just wants to relieve the pressure. Once the pressure is atmospheric, any movement stops - unless it's more dense and "pours" out or it's less dense and "flies" out. After adding the cans of r134a it works fine.

Air alone isn't awfully bad, but theoretically lowers efficiency, I would think. Water in the air is trapped by the drier, so working on a less humid day or in a garage is probably better. You all can shoot me now, but I guess I convinced myself when you look at the mass of air, water, and r134a involved. The pounds of air and water are really small.

 

[97gtsmonster]

i think that was the same hose i had to change on mine.. it took about 1 hour to take it off and replace with new one. then had the whole system evac and rechar. everything is good now

 

[dave6666]

Just don't believe in home remedies for the AC system on my $60K car...

Yes, change the hose yourself, but have it professionally evacuated and charged!

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

It's the same A/C as on a $600 car.

 

[Rollin4]

While we are on the A/C subject. I need to replace the hose from the compressor to the condensor on my 94. How do you get to the condenser up front ?

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

I believe you can reach the bolt holding the hose onto the condenser with socket extensions through the front fascia.

 

[dave6666]

Yeah, but I have greater comfort doing home remedies on a $600 car. It's all about the brain candy. What makes your clock tick. And don't get me wrong. I do admire the home remedy approach. That's usually a sign of a pretty intelligent person. So maybe I'm just the ******* that would rather spend the $600 at the service shop than on a second car...

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Brain candy is correct. The things I've done wrong felt really good when I finally got it right.

 

[SYNFULL]

I think this is the line I had to change when my header heat shield wore a hole through it from rubbing it. It's a little tough positioning the new line in place because it goes through a lot of tight turns. You need to have a little patience. Also, I had a shop vacuum the air out and refill when I was done.

 

[mad0953]

Thanks for all the advise guys. I will remove and replace the hose myself and have an AC place do the rest. Now I gotta call Tator and order the part!!!

 

[Johann]

If the cost of a new hose causes heart palpitations, you might consider having the existing hose "rebuilt"; some A/C shops are equipped to reuse your old fittings and install them in new hose.

 

[RAYSIR]

Yes, this is a low-budget example. Daughter's Intrepid had the compressor sieze. I bought an eBay used replacement. Upon disconnecting, I put something in the hose and compressor openings, knowing it would not seal, but simply to keep any airflow from happening. The density of r134a at atmospheric pressure is slightly higher than that of air, so tilt hoses up (think of it as water.) I replaced the compressor and reattached all the hoses. The compressor was obviously full of "air" and the rest of the system would be full of r143a. Now you add 3-4 cans of r134a and the percentage of mass of air is ridiculously small. No surprise, it works fine.

Similar job on the Viper - kept losing r143a to the point of adding a can every 6 weeks. The o-rings at the compressor get hot during use, harden, and eventually leak. I bought a set of universal AC compatible o-rings (about $2 for 20; Dodge charges $10 for 1) and did the same thing - replaced one at a time and made a reasonable attempt to keep the gaseous material in the system from "spilling" out or air getting in. It's not like the r134a is looking to escape, it just wants to relieve the pressure. Once the pressure is atmospheric, any movement stops - unless it's more dense and "pours" out or it's less dense and "flies" out. After adding the cans of r134a it works fine.

Air alone isn't awfully bad, but theoretically lowers efficiency, I would think. Water in the air is trapped by the drier, so working on a less humid day or in a garage is probably better. You all can shoot me now, but I guess I convinced myself when you look at the mass of air, water, and r134a involved. The pounds of air and water are really small.

WHOOOO, you guys need to look at http://www.macsw.org/ for correct info. r134 isn't like water it is a gas and before opening system needs to reclaimed, per EPA. Air in an A/C system has moisture in it , reason for receiver driers, and will freeze in the orifice tube causing the system to blow warm air then cold after the ice melts in orifice. Been doing A/C since '73 and this isn't right. Sorry to disagree but this is way backyard info and misinformation to people that are trying to learn.
Tator or someone jump in on this one??

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

I didn't say r134a was like water, in fact I said the density was similar to air. My reference to water was simply to illustrate that if not under pressure, you can keep r134a in the system (and air out) during a repair by holding the hose ends up (if it were more dense) or down (if it were less dense than air.) Also, if you calculate the grains of water (absolute humidity) in the air, it isn't many pounds of water relative to the pounds of r134a. Consequently, yes, some moisture will be in the system, but that is why there is a dryer in the system. And if the result of the repair was poor performance, a trip to the professional will still take care of it. Yes, that was backyard info, and I agreed by saying it was low-budget. I am a little prickly because I still don't think it is misinformation and have posted this exactly to show what has worked.

Ironically, I hope people do realize that dumping r134a isn't technically legal. But then again, I was shot down by those who remove catalytic converters and wonder why (reformulated, oxygenated, seasonally-adjusted, low RVP, low end point, EPA registered) gasoline costs so much.

 

[DaytonaViper]

Had the same problem and leak issue on my 96 GTS. Ended up replacing o-rings on the compressor. Had it vacuumed and refilled by a professional. Cost: $20.00 o-ring from dealer, $89.00 for freon. Works good as new…….may be worth checking first.

 

[AFL in NJ]

I've done A/C repairs myself and it isn't a hard system to fix (in fact it's easier than cooling systems as you don't have to burp it!). If you have a major leak, your system will compress, but blow out the existing hole. Simply order the hose, replace the hose and used something like Simple Green to clean the 134A off the parts around the leak (as heating up that stuff will blow those fumes into the car and I know it can't be good for your lungs!).

After you've replaced the hose, take the car to any qualified A/C technician and have them evacuate what is in there (likely compressed air and the last bits of 134A) and then have them properly charge the system to the "safe" pressure.

I replaced the main hose on my daily driver after it sprung a big leak on the bottom of the hose in a spot I couldn't even see (had to use the UV trace kit (available at most parts stores) to find where the leak was). Recently, I had to replace the A/C compressor (3 bolts) after having the system evacuated by a professional, then re-filled it myself using one of those kits from the parts store (came with a dial guage, the hose, and a can of 134a).

The kits that allow you to fill your 134a will also work with the ultra violet trace kits and will help you self-diagnose leaks in your system.

Regards,
Aaron

 

[mad0953]

Thanks Aaron, I used a UV trace kit to find the leak, or I should say a friend used his kit to find the leak and it was on the underside of the hose. As soon as I get the hose from Tator I will install it and take it to an AC guy and let him or her do the rest.