Attn Roadracers: Cooling issues

REDSLED

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I've seen several Vipers at the track with the windshield cowl removed and when I inquired about it the owners said that they did notice a difference in the cooling. Is there any documented proof on this? I have a Fluidyne radiator and make sure that all the reservoirs and surge tanks are properly filled yet I still (along with other similarly prepared cars) still have to run with our heaters on to avoid over heating the car. Any suggestions or thoughts on removing the windshield cowl?
-Jonathan
 

Sean Roe

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We saw no worthwhile improvement in removing the cowl. The lower center of the windshield has high pressure. Removing the cowl allows that air to go down.

Get some air through the radiator with a duct kit, put in a 180 degree thermostat, a fan kit (to keep the coolant from boiling and causing air pockets after shut down), 50/50 mix of coolant / water (Shell Rotella Extended Life Coolant has worked great for us and it's pre-mixed), two bottles of Redline Water Wetter and a fresh (good) radiator cap. Then you'll be set.

Here's a link with info about the duct kit: http://www.roeracing.com/index.html?token=819464094-892015234-857734594&A=3&B=Engine%20Cooling

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Sean
 

K Adelberg

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Removing the windshield cowl really didn't do anything for me. I also have the larger fan. A fan kit may help when the car is at very low speeds. Could be wrong here, but a fan's pitch is designed for a certain mph air speed, isn't it? A 180 degree thermostat will allow the coolant to flow continually. If you are at a temperature over the installed thermostat rating to begin with, why would a lower one help? I have also tried all the ratios of coolant, distilled water and water wetter, with very little gain.

Summer in the California desert just equals high temps and running the heater at full blast! Unless you want to change hoods with venting, etc...
 

Ulysses

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A fan kit may help when the car is at very low speeds.
That's correct. It really helps when you are at idle in traffic or when you are going through the low speed turns on track. If you are cooling it more efficiently on the low speed parts hopefully it will not get AS hot when you floor it.
 
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REDSLED

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Thanks for the input. I'll try some of these remedies that have been brought to my attention. On the Roe set up does the front cover have to be removed to install the air duct kit? Is this a do it yourself kit?
Jonathan
 

PMUM

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Sean's duct kit is pretty much the biggest and cheapest thing you can do to keep it cool. Frying your toes with the heater helps and I'm sure if you're willing to cut vents in the top of your hood, that'd help too. I had a big 4 core radiator in Big Boy (540 rwhp) with the duct kit and it never got above 240.
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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Sean's duct kit is pretty much the biggest and cheapest thing you can do to keep it cool. I had a big 4 core radiator in Big Boy (540 rwhp) with the duct kit and it never got above 240.

That means something coming from PMUM since from what I hear he doesn't let the tach go below 5K. :)
 

JoeB

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Jon, were any of the Viper cars running hot at Button Willow this last time?

Dearing had to drop out because he was running to hot in the race--So how much different is the Comp Coupe's radiator compared to a GTS. Mine never got over 203 on the track with outside temps at 100 degrees. The area of the air through the facia seems to be the same? The radiator looks the same thickness???

Joe B
 

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