Brake maintenance...

[Newport Viper]

Now cresting 32,000 miles on 2004. This will be only the third pad change. ( Going to the Hawk pads, can't stand the reds anymore! )

Is it wise to turn the rotors or, just put on the pads and bed them in?

 

[bluesrt]

if u want to roll the dice,slap pads-if u want a 100 percent nice job and performance brake(no shake at brake) bite the bullet and put on new rotors,well money spent.

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

Now cresting 32,000 miles on 2004. This will be only the third pad change. ( Going to the Hawk pads, can't stand the reds anymore! )

Is it wise to turn the rotors or, just put on the pads and bed them in?

If the rotors have never been turned and they are in "spec" after turning I would. Rotors are cheap though I guess I would change them both with 32K on the clock.

 

[Dave's Big Brakes]

Hey Dave,

Change the rotors with the price of turning, change the rotors

OGO has spoken

Big Brake Dave

 

[ViperTony]

Dave, what's an OGO?!? Is that the same person that left me the inspirational message in my voicemail last week?

 

[Dave's Big Brakes]

Dave, what's an OGO?!? Is that the same person that left me the inspirational message in my voicemail last week?

Yes Dear

OGO (Oh Great One)

 

[Paul Hawker]

OGO is the specialist in all things pertaining to Viper Brakes.

If he says replace the rotors...replace the rotors.

Dave is all about bang for the buck with brakes.

 

[Newport Viper]

OGO

Really means...... Old Gray One

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

get both it will be better all around.

 

[dave6666]

OGO

 

[Dave's Big Brakes]

OGO

Oh Great One

 

[Newport Viper]

Going to burn up what I have now. Will shop for stuff after the Zone event....

 

[fireball]

I posted the following in another thread recently.

Brake material is transferred from the pad to the rotor and it is this pad material to embeded pad material friction that does the braking. This is what you're doing when you 'bed' the brakes. You're loading the rotor with pad material.

When you change pads to a different compound you need to clean up the rotors so the embeded material, that doesn't match the new pads, is removed. It's simple to do. Either turn the rotors (only if required for another reason) or use emery paper (or fine sandpaper) and scratch the surface entirely until it changes color. Then go ahead and re-bed the new pads.


I've pasted the following from the Hawk Brake site:

Clean a used rotor surface with fine sand paper or steel wool, rinse with water, dry and install before bedding new pads.

And:

Correct brake pad break-in (bedding) is important to assure quality braking performance over the life of the pad. This procedure allows the rubbing surface of the brake pad to slowly be brought up to racing temperatures. Proper bedding creates a transfer layer film of friction material to be applied to the rotor surface. This allows the brake pad material to rub against itself rather than the bare rotor. This increases the stopping performance of the brake pad and can reduce pad and rotor wear.


I've done this for years on all my race cars (and motorcycles) with success.

Greg

 

[Bristolrover]

Factory manual says turn 'em. That's what I'd do. If you're going to buy rotors buy a 2 piece and feel the benefits....Sometimes jon b has good used ones. I just bought some used stop techs, from him, works great along with my new ACR wheels and "lightweight" PS'2's.........