Brake upgrade

Doug GTS

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I have a bone stock 2000 GTS. I have gone to three viper Days events at Mid Ohio. They are a blast but I am concerned about my brakes. Rotors are starting to show some gouging.

What is the best upgrade for a car that will be driven mostly on the street but also a few weekends at the track? Do you know anyone in northern Ohio that is capable of doing this?

Thanks!
 

Daffy Duck Viper

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NCVCA

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Stop Tech has earned a good share of the Viper aftermarket brake upgrades.

Stock brakes are quite capable though. I just replaced my OEM rotors with replacements OEM this past race weekend after 8-10 weekends.

Remember to (if it's important to you) that Stop Tech (or any brake upgrade for that matter) will add points in ViperDays for class purposes and are not legal in SCCA T1.

Jeff
 

Daffy Duck Viper

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That's interesting. I wonder why improved brakes are not legal. I have yet to grasp a fraction off all the various racing rules. It's confusing as heck!

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NCVCA

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They are only "illegal" to maintain vehicle competitiveness within the class and control cost to the racer.

Everyone agrees that better brakes are available. The point is that you can't outrun cubic dollars and to keep things on a more level "racing field" certain things aren't allowed.

Most racing rules revolve around keeping things competitive and/or as cost effective as possible.
 

Daffy Duck Viper

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Oh, okay. That does make sense, when put like that. I knew you had to have a certain amount of safety equipment, and that different races required different types - like some roll bars are accepted in some races while requiring a different type of roll bar for other races. So, going one further, based on what race event you enter, you can and cannot have certain modifications? Some of which might make it to where you can race in some events while not being able to race in others? Do you, or anyone, know if there are any races that allow full modifications? Kind of like, anything goes. On that same note, are there any races that don't allow any modifications? Just curious, as I could see myself taking my Viper (when I get it) to a track, and having a go. I'd like to see what this is all about. Sounds fun. Nothing major though. Just for fun. I don't want to get all crazy in the area of Viper racing.

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REDSLED

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Yep Daffy, that's what I thought at my first Viper Days last September. Well....after the trailer, 30 track days in the last 8 mos and about $10K in upgrades my Viper sees the track about 2-3 days per month. Once you start it becomes very addicting. :)
 

MULE

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Kevin Smith at Klaben Dodge in Kent is a very good viper tech. The story goes he used to be a mechanic on a viper race team or something. I learned of him from this board. Have taken my car there once to have ALL the fluids changed. He did a nice job.
 

Marv S

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A 2000 Viper bone Stock in placed in the "Super Stock" Class at ViperDays. (the jon scott "stock II" class is gone :mad: ) If you add 2 points worth of goodies you get bumped up into a higher class but I think just putting on Stop Tech Rotors is "0" points and the whole Stop Tech OE Replacement System will only add 1 point to your 2000 Viper, which would still keep you in the same Super Stock Class in Viper Days.

http://www.viperdays.com/rulesmatrix.html


Remember to (if it's important to you) that Stop Tech (or any brake upgrade for that matter) will add points in ViperDays for class purposes Jeff
 

NCVCA

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Remember too though that a 2 nozzle fire system and/or rollcage is negative points at ViperDays so you can do some cool mods that cost points and get back down by doing safety stuff.

Smart matrix by ViperDays if you ask me...
 

Hoosier Daddy

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Remember too though that a 2 nozzle fire system and/or rollcage is negative points at ViperDays so you can do some cool mods that cost points and get back down by doing safety stuff.

Smart matrix by ViperDays if you ask me...

Jeff you better hope you don't end up back in SS, that is of course you don't mind going home with the runner's up trophy that is!!!! :D
Bad news for you is I just won a 1/2 off my next event at the banquet. Should I use it at VIR and once again lug the spoils of victory back up across the Mason Dixon line for the 3rd year in a row!!
 

REDSLED

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Stop Techs on the fronts will cost you only 1 pt, however Stop Techs on all 4 corners will cost 2 pts.due to the <10% braking surface. I'm contemplating this very situation for the finals in Texas. I've got 4 pts in SS, however I can add the Fire system & rollbar and add Stop Techs all the way around and still be at 4 pts. I guess us California boys will need all the mods we can get to keep up with Alan. At least that's what So CAl Rebell has been telling me.
Looking forward to running with you guys in Texas.
-John
 

NCVCA

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Alan Alan Alan....

Did you ever even think I could be faster? I don't think I've posted a single lap faster than you.

But, we have been doing some tuning and practice since we last went into the mud at Texas World...

Let the mud slinging BEGIN!
 

Gavin

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Doug GTS, I don't think the previous posts answered you question - now i would have expected more from REDLED, after all he is an educator.
Here is my tens cents.

I make the assumption that you have not had a lot of track experience but like what you have done so far and want to to more.
I have developed the following list of changes to make to your car, based on your current experience. I also think this list takes into account costs of changes, so the order in which you make changes is important
STAGE 1
Heat - the fronts are going to fade due to excessive heat and you are going to boil the fliud.
1. go to high temp fluid and add Porsche cooling ducts - personally I did not have much luck with them but others have so what can I say - I installed the Henry Cone duct kit and that is quite effective
Sean Roe has a plexi deflector that helps **** air thru the wheel - some have had luck by going to a BBS type design that pulls more air thru the wheel.

You have to face the heat issue sooner or later - I recommend you do it sooner - the hotter the equipment runs the faster pads and rotors wear out.
You will also melt the rubber grommets on the suspension etc etc etc

Next - as you get quicker and get harder on the brakes you are going to flat spot the right front tire (right front of the car is lighter than the left therefore has less grip)
2. Braided brake lines - this gives you a much better pedal feel
3. Pads - you will chew through street pads.

Now this is where you start to spend money
Street pads are for the street
Track pads are for the track
Try to run your track pads on the street and you will chew out rotors
I have a set of rotors for the street and a set for the track - its a pain!!!
Stock Viper rotors are cheap - $400 for a set of fout from Parts Rack
Expensive rotors last about as long as the stock ones, per dollar spent.

STAGE 2
You should be getting more experienced, going quicker, pushing the limits of your equipment more
Now you are ready to do something about the back brakes - they are just along for the ride.
Many solutions and it is at this point you need to sit down and decide if you are going to continue at you current pace or you are going to get wild and crazy like old Redsled there, and be at the track a couple of weekends every month!!

Lots of track activity - Stoptechs seem to be the popular choice - they work but be aware you will be using their rotors - I believe I am correct in saying that thier rotors will not work with stock rotors without modification.

You really have to have a good method( as in front air ducts) of cooling these things, or any other brand or solution for that matter.

If you want just play occasionally - I think I would still recommend the Stop Tech 4 wheel solution.

I think you can see, how much track stuff has a large bearing on what changes to make to the car - how fast you are and your experience is equally important.

I now know that early in in my learning curve I was not smooth and ******* the brakes, so I was applying brake for a longer period of time and not at threshold braking, therefore generating tons of heat. I would like to think I now brake shorter and harder, am on the brakes less and generate less heat into the equipment. So I think experience or technique counts.

Equipment is always improving so check with equipment suppliers before you buy - do they have an improvement coming that might be worth waiting for.
Luck
Gavin
 

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