Car wont start and brake will not depress

Discussion in 'SRT Engineering Q/A Area' started by wes, Jul 2, 2011.

  1. wes

    wes Viper Owner

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    So I got in the car this morning and I was rushing so I put the key in, pressed the clutch and brake in then heard a little pop and nothing happened. I tried to start it quicker than normal and usually wait a few seconds before I crank up up but I didn't this time. Anyways, now I try to crank it up and the brake pedal wont go down at all. It is completely stuck and I'm at a loss. Has anyone had this problem before? I'm trying to unplug the battery now to see if that will help. Also the brake pedal must be down slightly because I can't roll the car in neutral so now its stuck in my garage and cant even roll out. One more thing, the car also is not making that humming noise or I don't know how else to describe it, when you first turn your key on and it sounds like its powering its electrical system up....sorry I really don't know how to describe the noise but every viper makes it when your put the key in and turn the ignition on. Also I don't see any CEL's being thrown until you turn the key on, and press the start button then the CEL pops on and the abs light comes on at times. Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2011
  2. Timnineside

    Timnineside Viper Owner

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    Make sure the parking brake isn't set first off. I don't think your having a problem with your brakes. They run off a vacum, so the fact that you pushed down the brake a bunch of times without the car running is probably why the pedal is stiff. (all cars do this). You may still have a problem, but I would worry about getting the car running first. Sounds like either an ignition switch, or possible clutch sensor. Usually the clutch sensor goes bad the other way and allows the car to start without even pushing in the clutch pedal.

    Good luck, and possibly some other guys will chime in with a solution for you. I had a similar problem, but slightly different and it ended up being the ignition switch. ($60 at Autozone)

    -Tim
     
  3. wes

    wes Viper Owner

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    thanks, I'm hoping it's nothing major but who knows. I just don't see how starting the car too fast could of messed it up but who knows.
     
  4. Ratical2

    Ratical2 Viper Owner

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    The Humming sound that you hear when you first turn the key on is probably the Fuel Pump pressurizing the system.
    I would check to make sure the battery is kicking out it prescribed 12.8 volts and check your fuel pump relay.
    One other thought, most of the newer cars have a Fuel Pump safety cutoff that shuts the fuel off in the case of an accident. Make that hasn't been tripped for what ever reason.
     
  5. BlknBlu

    BlknBlu Viper Owner

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    Does you battery have a full charge?

    Bruce
     
  6. wes

    wes Viper Owner

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    yes it's reading over 12 volts
     
  7. MY600HP

    MY600HP VCA Member - Great Lakes

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    What year is your car?
     
  8. wes

    wes Viper Owner

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    it's a 2006..I already checked and tested all the fuses and switched out some of the relays and still nothing...I still don't hear the fuel pump pressurizing and when your press the start button you hear a slight click..it almost sounds like a solenoid clicking not the actual starter turning over.
     
  9. wes

    wes Viper Owner

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    btw do any of you guys know of the viper has inline fuses? just a thought
     
  10. Steve-Indy

    Steve-Indy VCA Venom Member - Great Lakes

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    12 volts does not sound like full charge to me. How about charging battery, using key to be sure that you have disarmed alarm, then try again.
     
  11. 1buddyc

    1buddyc Viper Owner

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    Low or Shorted Battery. JMO
     
  12. Ratical2

    Ratical2 Viper Owner

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    Batteries should be checked under load.....

    6. Battery Testing can be done in more than one way. The most accurate method is measurement of specific gravity and battery voltage. To measure specific gravity buy a temperature compensating hydrometer, to measure voltage use a digital D.C. Voltmeter. A quality load tester may be a good purchase if you need to test sealed batteries.

    For any of these methods, you must first fully charge the battery and then remove the surface charge. If the battery has been sitting at least several hours (I prefer at least 12 hours) you may begin testing. To remove surface charge the battery must be discharged for several minutes. Using a headlight (high beam) will do the trick. After turning off the light you are ready to test the battery.

    State of Charge Specific Gravity Voltage
    12V 6V
    100% 1.265 12.7 6.3
    *75% 1.225 12.4 6.2
    50% 1.190 12.2 6.1
    25% 1.155 12.0 6.0
    Discharged 1.120 11.9 6.0

    *Sulfation of Batteries starts when specific gravity falls below 1.225 or voltage measures less than 12.4 for a 12v battery, or 6.2 for a 6 volt battery. Sulfation hardens on the battery plates reducing and eventually destroying the ability of the battery to generate Volts and Amps.

    Load testing is yet another way of testing a battery. Load test removes amps from a battery much like starting an engine would. A load tester can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Some battery companies label their battery with the amp load for testing. This number is usually 1/2 of the CCA rating. For instance, a 500CCA battery would load test at 250 amps for 15 seconds. A load test can only be performed if the battery is near or at full charge.

    The results of your testing should be as follows:

    Hydrometer readings should not vary more than .05 differences between cells.

    Digital Voltmeters should read as the voltage is shown in this document. The sealed AGM and Gel-Cell battery voltage (full charged) will be slightly higher in the 12.8 to 12.9 ranges. If you have voltage readings in the 10.5 volts range on a charged battery, that typically indicates a shorted cell.

    If you have a maintenance free wet cell, the only ways to test are voltmeter and load test. Any of the maintenance free type batteries that have a built in hydrometer(black/green window) will tell you the condition of 1 cell of 6. You may get a good reading from 1 cell but have a problem with other cells in the battery.

    When in doubt about battery testing, call the battery manufacturer. Many batteries sold today have a toll free number to call for help.

    Excerpt from:
    http://www.batterystuff.com/tutorial_battery.html
     
  13. wes

    wes Viper Owner

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    Brakes work fine now it was just surface rust that had them stuck but I'm still not hearing the fuel pump pressuring up and the starter is doing nothing. The battery is fully charged and the starter it getting power to it. I was thinking it could be the starter solenoid, but I don't see how that could also affect the fuel pump not pressuring up. I might have to wait till monday and get it towed to the dealership which I really don't want to do but I'm running out of options. Hopefully it's not the computer.
     
  14. 01sapphirebob

    01sapphirebob Enthusiast

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    Is your battery the original battery? Many problems can sometimes be traced back to the battery. I know you siad it's fully charged but if you recharged it the battery may already be shot at this point and recharging it will not help one bit.
     
  15. wes

    wes Viper Owner

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    it is a Sears Diehard Platinum I got about 3 or 4 months ago
     
  16. Steve-Indy

    Steve-Indy VCA Venom Member - Great Lakes

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    recheck/replace fuse 10
     
  17. wes

    wes Viper Owner

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    Checked every fuse at least 5 times and replaced a few just in case and still nothing. If I don't figure it out myself I'll post up the results later during the week. I'm just running out of ideas. Gonna have to make a few calls this week for sure.
     
  18. wes

    wes Viper Owner

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    had to get the car towed to the dealership..apparently there is no power going to the PCM. They have to trace it back and see what it is. Should be interesting.
     
  19. Phun70

    Phun70 Viper Owner

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    I'm betting on the ignition switch.
     
  20. wes

    wes Viper Owner

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    Well apparently the problem was the injector harness. There were corroded wires and now the injector harness needs to be replaced. Still don't know how it happened but at least the problem is solved. Thanks for the help.
    Wes
     

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