Curiosity killed the cats.. and resonators.. $150 exhaust project pics

[2000_Black_RT10]

Curiosity killed the cats.. and resonators.. $150 exhaust project pics & video

An experiment to determine what the exhaust would sound like with the stock muffler and removing the catalytic converters and resonators. Intentions are buying an entire new exhaust, headers, etc.. but for what it was worth since bored this weekend.. $50 heavy guage (1/8" wall thickness) 2 1/2" diameter tube, $60 for 12 4 bolt flanges, and misc hardware including grade 5 fasteners, and lots of MIG welding. I bought 4 more flanges so I can reinstall the catalytic converter & resonator assembly.

It sounds absolutely awesome, slightly louder at idle, but not much, but when you get on it, it sounds like it should more like a race car. Most noticeable is during downshift, under engine braking it cackles like an Indy car. Overall there isn't a drone, not sure if the heavy guage pipe helped. Surely the sills won't get as hot either, it's a terrible design from the factory, there isn't any room for air to flow around the converter, encapsulating all that heat is not so good.

Original exhaust

You must be registered for see images

Cut front elbow

You must be registered for see images

Cut rear tail pipe

You must be registered for see images

Flange welded on front elbow, I removed the elbow prior to welding, easy to remove at the manifold clamp

You must be registered for see images

Straight tube and old system comparison

You must be registered for see images

Looking inside resonator

You must be registered for see images

Looking inside catalytic converter

You must be registered for see images

Front flange welded and assembled

You must be registered for see images

Rear flange welded and assembled

You must be registered for see images

Finished prior to putting the rocker / sill cover back on

You must be registered for see images

That's it..

 

[AFL in NJ]

Looks amazing, any chance you can record some video of it running so we can hear it? If possible, post it on youtube and give us a link to it.

Nice work!

Regards,
Aaron

 

[FE 065]

Thanks for the great photos-you're ready to rock now!




----------------------------------

2001 ACR/1999 GTS
Chrome ACR Wheels for sale
(24lbs lighter than OE 18")

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

I will tomorrow, road side drive-by footage and in car.

Oh ya, I forgot to mention, the cows were lingering around close to the garage.. I snapped this pic just after I ran the car for a few seconds with open exhaust after I cut the pipes.. they didn't like that, they scattered pretty quick..

You must be registered for see images

 

[big-n-italian]

if you want to see someting really amazing, try looking at the sun through the catalytic converter and tell us what you see!


you will quickly realized why your side sills get so darn hot!

 

[RAYSIR]

Man, nice welding job!!! Looks great. Do you have to get seasonal waivers or what about emmision test.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Great job. I always wanted to hear a stock muffler catless reson-less system.

 

[CROM]

Nice work! I wish I had your equipment and skills. What MIG do you have?

You're going to need 02 Simulators btw. Unless you don't care about the light.

 

[SidewinderGTS]

Great job.

 

[SSSSE YA]

Great post, thanks for information and pictures. To bad You or some one else could do a dyno pull to get a base line and than after with cats and muffers removed.

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

any chance you can record some video of it running so we can hear it?

Here you go Aaron & Chuck, nice day in the country to make some noise.. funny, reminds of being a kid and using a clothes pin and hockey cards on the bicycle spokes.. no sense growing up, life's too short eh'

5 meg WMV video..
http://www.wincom.net/mnllehti/exhaust_08_06_2007_video.wmv

CROM - thanks for the heads up, I did a plug check, they look good right after a hard run. Theory could be that since the 02 sensors are close to the manifold, not using headers didn't really affect the heat output, plugs look ok, it runs good..

It's just a portable Century 120v wire feed / MIG welder, thanks for the welding compliment RAYSIR.
The sills are only warm now, heat is gone, I checked after idling and hard runs. That's it, thank you for the chance to share the fabbing and the compliments everybody.

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

If you want to make your own, here are some more pics and materials.

The straight pipe is the typical galvanized electrical conduit tubing from Home Depot, it's 2 1/2" diameter, and 1/8" wall thickness. You can buy a 8' length. Cutting the original exhaust pipe at the straight section (not at a bend) ended up being a 41" straight pipe, plus the flange thicknesses. I guess you could use thinner pipe, but I wanted something nice and thick, easy to weld (without burning holes through it) and surely quieter regarding noise in the sills. Bolts were 3/8" - 24 (fine thread), grade 5, 1 1/2" long, also used lock washers in addition to flat washers.

I used a cordless Dewalt reciprocating saw to cut the pipes, just put a jack under the assembly so it doesn't fall and kick up, possibly hitting the car, just make the cut straight as possible, once it was cut it didn't fall, I just rolled it out..

You must be registered for see images

I cut a piece of exhaust tubing to center the pipe in the flange so I could tack weld the pipe centered in location, because the 2 1/2" pipe did not slip into the 2 1/4" hole in the 4 bolt flange, needing somethig to center it rather than try to hold it in position.

You must be registered for see images

Here it is slipped in, this will be removed after tack welding.

You must be registered for see images

Bolt the straight pipe flanges to the flanges that were welded to the original exhaust, the straight pipe needs to be cut at an angle, approximately 5 degrees on the chop saw, the pipe is not cut at a straight / perpendicular angle, if you look at the previous picture of the original catalytic / resonator assembly, the inlet and outlet is not on the same center line, this pipe is at an angle, also considering the handheld cut using the reciprocating saw is not perfect either..

You must be registered for see images

I used one fo those long pipe clamps to hole the entire assembly together at the flanges, you can see it on the floor after I tacked welded the flanges. Since the front elbow is a flex pipe, you have about +/- 1/2" to play with front to back, just cut your pipe longer and keep cutting it back until it fits nice at both flanges.

You must be registered for see images

After cutting the pipe, it may be trial an error to get a flush fit to the flange since it's cut at an angle. Then tack weld it to the flange.

You must be registered for see images

Once it's tack welded at both ends, remove the pipe and finish welding the flanges to the straight pipe.

You must be registered for see images

I made my own flange gaskets using thin alloy, copper would be best, you can get flat stock copper from any place that sells roofing decor / flashing, etc.. if you can't find matching prefab flange gaskets.

That's it..

 

[CROM]

Sorry for the confusion.

What I meant to get across was that without the catalytic converters in place there is a good chance you will throw an engine light.

Thanks for the extended writeup/pics

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

Thanks CROM, it is good to hear feedback - I'll be aware for the dreaded engine light. I drove about 2 hours today, from ripping around like a maniac to getting stuck idling in a long line of cottage traffic that were returning home on the long weekend. I will be sure to give notice if it happens.

 

[AFL in NJ]

Absolutely LOVE the sound....it reminds me of hearing Can-Am cars from the 70's!!

Regards,
Aaron

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

You are right Aaron, I couldn't put my finger on it, definitely Can-Am. Thanks, I wasn't sure what to expect when I pulled the trigger on the saw, it all worked out ok.

 

[CROM]

Thanks CROM, it is good to hear feedback - I'll be aware for the dreaded engine light. I drove about 2 hours today, from ripping around like a maniac to getting stuck idling in a long line of cottage traffic that were returning home on the long weekend. I will be sure to give notice if it happens.

When the light does come on use a little of this and you'll be all set.

You must be registered for see images

 

[big-n-italian]

Thanks CROM, it is good to hear feedback - I'll be aware for the dreaded engine light. I drove about 2 hours today, from ripping around like a maniac to getting stuck idling in a long line of cottage traffic that were returning home on the long weekend. I will be sure to give notice if it happens.

everyone said it would, but it never happened on my 97.

 

[CROM]

96s, 97s and early 98s tend to slip by somehow. OBD2 went into place in 96, and typically most 96+ makes/models throw that pesky code.

That a 2000 "should" throw the code

 

[ZEUS]

Ever since I gave you a blow by a while back, you know you've been yearning it ever since.

PS- Get some hi-flows, they'll take away most of the annoying "pops" and keep the good ones. Noise will sound only slightly less, specifically high treble. More importantly, this non-cat viper won't smell as good as your 572 cuda did, it actually stinks---your wife will hate it with the top off at a light. Tried both set-ups, and if only for the sound hi flows are worth it.

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

Ever since I gave you a blow by a while back, you know you've been yearning it ever since.

Glad you realize that you are responsible for this Tom.

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

96s, 97s and early 98s tend to slip by somehow. OBD2 went into place in 96, and typically most 96+ makes/models throw that pesky code.

That a 2000 "should" throw the code

2 days of driving (approx 4 hours total), still no light / code!

I really enjoy driving the car even more now, it's been great so far.