ledfoot
Viper Owner
If I don't drive the car (05,exhaust mods only) for a week or so the battery dies (battery has been changed) I'm in a warm weather climate......Anybody been there ?...Guru's ? Thanks, Dave
dealer can't find battery draw
- Thread starter ledfoot
- Start date
mjorgensen Woodhouse
Enthusiast
Is there ANYTHING electronic that has been added to the car? Electronics shops are notorious for causing this. The PCM and BCM have an unusually high milliamp draw more so than other cars but it should take a couple weeks to totally die. I recommend if there is nothing found to get a trickle charger that mounts near the battery and plug it in all the time that is what I do with my 08'.
ledfoot
Viper Owner
Previous time i brought the car in -- they changed a module--no help--So I put a new battery in--no help----No big deal. I would'nt mind running a trickler
ViperGTS
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My 3 Vipers die(d) all after 2 weeks - we checked the electric circuits and could not find anything unusual - therefore, I use a trickle charger all the time.
No more problems with the battery.
No more problems with the battery.
mjorgensen Woodhouse
Enthusiast
We use/sell the C-Teck brand of maintenance chargers. They can be mounted back by the battery out of sight and plugged in easy.
Flexx91
Viper Owner
This is only a "band-aid" for the problem and not the fix. A good battery shouldn't die after only one week (seven days) of "inactivity" - assuming it had a full charge when the ignition was turned off. Make sure that the alarm is not activated and you have absolutely no added accessories (electronics, etc.) that can cause an increase in amperage draw when the car is turned off (not in sleep mode).
I've had a couple of Mopar batteries go bad with the exact same symptoms you are describing. I then had to resort to an aftermarket battery and haven't had a problem since.
A few questions:
Do you use your alarm?
What was the ''module'' that was changed? Why?
Did they do an ignition off draw down test? If so, how many milliamps?
Has the NEW battery been tested?
Was the alternator tested?
Have the connectors and cables between battery and alternator been tested?
Does ''exhaust mods'' mean headers? Heat shields? If ''yes'', anyone inspect O2 sensor wires?
What was the answer to Mark's question about add on wiring?? All ''doo-dads'' count---stereo, nav, hard-wire radar detector, alarm, cruise control, etc.
Was the tech a Viper Tech...with a wide experience?
Do you use your alarm?
What was the ''module'' that was changed? Why?
Did they do an ignition off draw down test? If so, how many milliamps?
Has the NEW battery been tested?
Was the alternator tested?
Have the connectors and cables between battery and alternator been tested?
Does ''exhaust mods'' mean headers? Heat shields? If ''yes'', anyone inspect O2 sensor wires?
What was the answer to Mark's question about add on wiring?? All ''doo-dads'' count---stereo, nav, hard-wire radar detector, alarm, cruise control, etc.
Was the tech a Viper Tech...with a wide experience?
...AND, if you are NOT the sole, original owner...are you sure that the car has never been wrecked??
ledfoot
Viper Owner
The Tech was off for Good Friday ( no way I was leaving my car over the weekend). To answer a few of the thoughtful questions that I Am aware of : No wrecks, Changed from a Mopar to a Diehard, zero doodads, not sure what module was replaced (it was'nt THE module)it was replaced because the tech thought it was draining the batt., Exhaust =Corsa track/high flows. I have been getting an o2 code..hmmm.
Thanks for the info...helps a bunch...and, smarter folks may chime in with more ideas.
When Tech returns, maybe he can give you some expanded answers...and propose a course of action. I find that most Techs are very happy to share their knowledge once they know that YOU care.
When Tech returns, maybe he can give you some expanded answers...and propose a course of action. I find that most Techs are very happy to share their knowledge once they know that YOU care.
Ledfoot--not all batteries are created equal. What type (store?) battery have you used? My gen 1 was replaced with an interstate with no subsequent problems. I have had zero problems with my 06 coupe so far, but if I did, interstate would be installed.
It's easy to check for voltage/amperage draw. Merely attach a volt meter in series with either the positive or negative terminal of the battery. Attach the positive or negative leads from your tester to the cable you have disconnected. You cannot hurt anything if attached incorrectly. When hooked up properly, the meter will show a positive current draw.
The voltmeter will show a voltage draw if one is present. With meter still hooked up, remove one fuse at a time until the draw drops. Remember that some draw will always be present with the ECM and possibly other components.
I would try replacing the battery with a decent brand ( interstate ) first.
It's easy to check for voltage/amperage draw. Merely attach a volt meter in series with either the positive or negative terminal of the battery. Attach the positive or negative leads from your tester to the cable you have disconnected. You cannot hurt anything if attached incorrectly. When hooked up properly, the meter will show a positive current draw.
The voltmeter will show a voltage draw if one is present. With meter still hooked up, remove one fuse at a time until the draw drops. Remember that some draw will always be present with the ECM and possibly other components.
I would try replacing the battery with a decent brand ( interstate ) first.
Actually, Die-Hard Gold is an excellent battery!!
If you DO feel like further testing, I would try the ignition off draw (down) test at the same time you are checking the battery AT the battery and NOT at the terminals under the hood.
Set your multimeter to high amps (then, once connected as described below, move to lower scales to safely read), disconnect the negative lead from the battery, the connect one of test leads of the meter securely to the neg batt term and the other lead securely to the end of the neg cable...thus completing the circuit thru the meter. You need to do this with the doors closed, all equip off, noting that initial high readings may be found. Wait three minutes for all timed circuits/capacitors to wind down. To be ''normal'', your reading should not exceed 35 milliamps. Full text is inservice manual along with battery and cable tests.
If you DO feel like further testing, I would try the ignition off draw (down) test at the same time you are checking the battery AT the battery and NOT at the terminals under the hood.
Set your multimeter to high amps (then, once connected as described below, move to lower scales to safely read), disconnect the negative lead from the battery, the connect one of test leads of the meter securely to the neg batt term and the other lead securely to the end of the neg cable...thus completing the circuit thru the meter. You need to do this with the doors closed, all equip off, noting that initial high readings may be found. Wait three minutes for all timed circuits/capacitors to wind down. To be ''normal'', your reading should not exceed 35 milliamps. Full text is inservice manual along with battery and cable tests.
Mike Dolan
Viper Owner
Sorry to be so late in responding, but there is a really simple way of determining the source of current draw:
Connect an ammeter to the battery, then if you measure current draw when the car is turned off, start pulling fuses. When the current stops, you have located the circuit.
Look up the circuit that runs off the fuse in question and the source of battery drain becomes obvious.
On one of my other cars (Jag), it turned out to be improper wiring of the XM receiver.
Regards,
Mike Dolan
Connect an ammeter to the battery, then if you measure current draw when the car is turned off, start pulling fuses. When the current stops, you have located the circuit.
Look up the circuit that runs off the fuse in question and the source of battery drain becomes obvious.
On one of my other cars (Jag), it turned out to be improper wiring of the XM receiver.
Regards,
Mike Dolan
adamlotus
Enthusiast
i use a batterytender plus for my cars and have no battery concern even with the alarm on.
VENUM INJECTION
Viper Owner
I learned somrthing new today and wonder if this has any bearing on our viper battery drains. I learned that the newer vettes, not sure what years, that if you do not put it in reverse to park it and leave it, that the battery drains. Something that has to do with keeping a current draw in any other gear. I had several vette owner and previous vette owners say this. One commented that he had to replace several batteries and actually sold his for that reason. He only learned after, that that was the cause. I wonder if there is any correlation for us. I know I hate stating that there is even a small comparision to Viper and vette but was just wondering what you guys thought. Thanks.
ledfoot
Viper Owner
Although the Clown I bought the car from only had it for a few months. I guess he had it long enough to poorly wire a lo-jack unit....Turns out this was the cause of my battery draw problem.
CONGRATS on solving such a difficult and nagging issue!!!
Thanks for the followup.
Thanks for the followup.
FastestBusaAround
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Lojack's will do that every time. My 08 Viper vert can sit for months with no problem, but I use a battery tender anyway...
