Do I Need New Fasteners for Flywheel?

[cayman]

Getting ready to fix a nagging oil leak I've had for some time now. Narrowed it down to the rear seal. I'll have to drop the tranny and pull the clutch and flywheel. I plan on replacing the clutch since I'll already be there with one of those Luk OEM setups off Ebay. It looks like the thing to do after looking at some other threads. Do I need to replace the flywheel bolts for reinstalling it? Some suggest to do so and others have used the originals with thread lock. Also, what about the clutch bolts?

 

[-FROG-]

I always used the same bolts on cars and on my RT/10. Never had problems. I think if you are going to upgrade the clutch because of high horsepower applications... then yea, maybe spend a few bucks for new bolts... but if you are around stock HP or around 500HP... I wouldn't worry about it.

One thing though.....

You may consider replacing the clutch slave cylinder while you are at it. I had to do it on my RT/10 and my GTS. The RT/10 had about 70,000 miles on it. The GTS, had about 40,000. So if your's has miles on it too, it would be wise to knock it out. It's easy to do with the tranny out and all. I got both my slave cylinders off ebay and they came with a new throwout bearing too. Think it was about $120.00 or so...

Actually, this is the same one I got, from Clutch City. It's $155. Internal Clutch Slave Cylinder: 1992-04 Dodge Viper:eBay Motors (item 350233963937 end time Nov-27-09 14:21:44 PST)


AND.... Just an FYI. I think the "rule of thumb" is... when you replace the slave cylinder, you should go ahead and replace the master cylinder too. I eventually had to replace my Clutch Master Cylinder on my RT/10 a few miles down the road after I installed my new slave. So when I did the slave on my GTS, I also replaced the master at the same time.

Seems like alot to do, but I have pulled a few Viper trannies and if you have it out, do what you can so you don't have to pull it out again anytime soon. send me a message if you want detailed instructions... I have done it a few times.

 

[cayman]

Thanks Frog. A couple more things. Do I need to support the rear of the engine during the tranny removal as depicted in the service manual? Also, I hear that sometimes an oil leak may occur out of one of two oil plugs in the back of the motor. When I pull everything, I want to be prepared to fix where the leak is coming from right then and there. If the leak is coming from one of those plugs, what's the fix?

As to those who may suggest the leak is coming from the oil pan, I wish. I've dropped the pan twice, replaced it once including the gasket, and even cleaned and teflon taped the pan bolts. Still leaking. The only other place is at the rear of the motor, rear seal, rear seal housing gasket, oil plugs, flywheel bolts?
Thanks for any help guys. I've done many a search on this forum and found most answers but these.

 

[-FROG-]

Thanks Frog. A couple more things. Do I need to support the rear of the engine during the tranny removal as depicted in the service manual? Also, I hear that sometimes an oil leak may occur out of one of two oil plugs in the back of the motor. When I pull everything, I want to be prepared to fix where the leak is coming from right then and there. If the leak is coming from one of those plugs, what's the fix?

As to those who may suggest the leak is coming from the oil pan, I wish. I've dropped the pan twice, replaced it once including the gasket, and even cleaned and teflon taped the pan bolts. Still leaking. The only other place is at the rear of the motor, rear seal, rear seal housing gasket, oil plugs, flywheel bolts?
Thanks for any help guys. I've done many a search on this forum and found most answers but these.

Yea, I forgot a few times and the motor leans back and comes to a stop, but the problem is it would be bad on the motor mounts if it leans. So the best thing to do, it stack up some wood blocks or something that will make contact with the rear area of the motor when it leans. Just kinda play around with it and you'll figure it out. It's always best to support motors like that when pulling trannies.

I never had any problems with oil leaking out of any plugs. I repaired a rear main seal as well and it was pretty easy. I mean tear the old one out and gently hammer the new one in, by placing a board over the new seal and hammering so it inserts in a equal fashion.

Also, I would go ahead and drain the tranny so it doesn't make a mess when it leans back... leaking fluid out of the tail shaft all over the place. Just pull the drain plug out on the bottom and drain it. It's much easier that way. And since you have to pull the center console out, you will have access to refill it when you re-install it. I use a funnel and a long rubber hose and sit in the passenger seat, to pour new fluid in for the refill. It takes a synthetic oil I think... can't remember. Should say the type and amount in the Manuel.

Just an FYI... I it was a while back when I did this to my RT, but I think I remember... thinking I had a rear main seal, small oil leak, but it was the slave cylinder leaking in the bell housing, dripping oil out of the bell housing onto the floor. Which is ALSO what would appear to be a rear main seal leak. Your leak can be your slave cylinder going out. It may not be motor oil related at all. I had a big puddle of oil in my bell housing when I finally was able to get my finger in there to feel around.

 

[plumcrazy]

i had a problem with one of the plugs leaking from behind r near the flywheel (as it was described to me)

it took 2 or 3 tries to get it sealed. a PIA for sure. but i didnt do it, thank god

 

[Ron]

Service manual says to always replace the flywheel bolts any time they are removed. Cheap insurance.

 

[jk]

I always used the same bolts on cars and on my RT/10. Never had problems. I think if you are going to upgrade the clutch because of high horsepower applications... then yea, maybe spend a few bucks for new bolts... but if you are around stock HP or around 500HP... I wouldn't worry about it.

New flywheel bolt are more than a few bucks....
Many say you can re-use them once. Service manual does say to replace them. I am going through the same thought processes since I am going to put in a lightweight flywheel this winter - which you may want to consider since you are yanking it all apart anyway.

 

[Ratical2]

Yep, It is close to a hundred bucks for new flywheel bolts and they were on backorder when I last checked. I have it on good authority from a well respected member of this forum that" a little common sense goes a long way". His advice was to inspect the bolts for any defects, replace if necessary and use threadlocker when you reassemble.

 

[dave6666]

Per email conversation with Jon B of Parts Rack as I was buying my Fidanza from him:

The pressure-plate bolts are what Cragin says to replace w/ARP, on CHROMOLY FW. This is due to threading issue on that specific unit. The aluminum FWs do NOT need this, just as Archer also says. And Cragin does NOT have a PP ARP bolt avail for Fidanza anyway.

Some folks re-use FW bolts once....clean threads, etc. For example ARCHER says its 100% fine. Dan Cragin prefers to always swap them for new ARP bolts.

 

[jk]

Per email conversation with Jon B of Parts Rack as I was buying my Fidanza from him:

The pressure-plate bolts are what Cragin says to replace w/ARP, on CHROMOLY FW. This is due to threading issue on that specific unit. The aluminum FWs do NOT need this, just as Archer also says. And Cragin does NOT have a PP ARP bolt avail for Fidanza anyway.

Some folks re-use FW bolts once....clean threads, etc. For example ARCHER says its 100% fine. Dan Cragin prefers to always swap them for new ARP bolts.

Hmmm, I hadn't thought about he PP bolts for my flywheel swap... Need to check into this.

 

[cayman]

I got it from good authority, the Wizard himself, that reusing the FW bolts are OK. Just be sure to use threadlock. Thanks Chuck! Thanks for the rear seal and gasket as well! Just waiting on the Ebay clutch kit.