Thanks Chuck! I'll do just that. If I decide to tear in to this thing, I'll hook up with you for the parts. I already have one of those Luk clutch kits off of Ebay coming since I plan on changing out the clutch in the process. Those seem to be the cat's meow here on the forum.
I guess I needed to look further in the manual. It does say to "remove bolts attaching seal retainer to cylinder block and oil pan". My memory is bad. I had to have noticed that the last time I had the pan off. I gotta lay off the *** & cokes when I'm working on this thing.
I've had the clutch inspection cover off and can't tell if the leak is coming from the inside of the bellhousing. That's the only bad thing about keeping your oil changed regularly. New oil is damn near transparent! Would trying out that oil leak detector and black light trick be a waste of time?
Chuck is a good guy and has been a big help with me when I needed parts. He said you need to drop the oil pan, but I think I told you I didn't drop mine in a PM. I have done rear mains in multiple cars, so I may be wrong, but I almost swear I did my Gen 1 rear main and didn't drop my oil pan.... Maybe I'm wrong, so just scope it out real good and use your best judgement. Chuck is better at Vipers than me obviousely, so I hope I don't lead you astray if you know what I mean.
About the leak detector (in my opinion)... I would say pull the tranny and attack the problem head on like you have planned. The leak detector may be more of a pain in the butt in the long run and run you in circles trying to find the problem. HOWEVER... you mentioned, your engine oil is very new / clear... so, look in your clutch fluid resoivoir and see if it's dark (usually it's dark / dirty looking), then you can probably decifer if the oil leaking is clear or dark, it is motor oil, or clutch oil....