Front Brake cooling for the track

05Commemorative

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I have done some searching, but not finding exactly what I am looking for.

Wondering the options for gen3/4 cars to leverage the cooling ducts. what hose options and duct options at the caliper/rotor?

Also, the CF ducts I have seen are 4" inlets but the ducts at the grille are 3".

So, what are my options and pictures helps.
 

Timnineside

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I have done some searching, but not finding exactly what I am looking for.

Wondering the options for gen3/4 cars to leverage the cooling ducts. what hose options and duct options at the caliper/rotor?

Also, the CF ducts I have seen are 4" inlets but the ducts at the grille are 3".

So, what are my options and pictures helps.

Not sure how intense of driving you do, but I guess my questions is why? I run my Gen 4 a lot here in MI and have had zero issues with over heating. I am not the best driver in the world, and nor do I run more that 15-20 minutes at a time. My .02 but I just think money spent else where would be better bang for the buck.

-Tim
 
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05Commemorative

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We run 30min sessions here and I have racing pads, so much more heat involved. I am not looking for a super expensive alternative, just a way to use the factory ducts.
 

Timnineside

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We run 30min sessions here and I have racing pads, so much more heat involved. I am not looking for a super expensive alternative, just a way to use the factory ducts.

Understandable. I have seen systems for the SRT style. I am sure someone will chime in here. Can be quite costly from what I remember seeing but you never know.

-Tim
 

PeterMJ

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Understandable. I have seen systems for the SRT style. I am sure someone will chime in here. Can be quite costly from what I remember seeing but you never know.

-Tim
Take out the foglights and use the openings as inlets, should not be that tough to fabricate the ducts.
 

bluesrt

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buy some acrx rotors and pads for front and forget about it, and rear
 
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GTS-R 001

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I have caliper shrouds in stock, yes , they have 4" openings, but you can always fab something to attach a 3" hose at either the funnel end or the caliper shroud end. The race cars use a very large duct compared to the stock one built into the fascia, 30 sq inches of area vs about 8-10.

Another option that is popular with some racers is specialized high temp electric fan motors, this way your brakes are being cooled when you are going slow (under braking) vs just when you are going fast, tests have shown that the flow is not impeded by the fan/motor at high speed as well so it is a win win.
 
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05Commemorative

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I have caliper shrouds in stock, yes , they have 4" openings, but you can always fab something to attach a 3" hose at either the funnel end or the caliper shroud end. The race cars use a very large duct compared to the stock one built into the fascia, 30 sq inches of area vs about 8-10.

Another option that is popular with some racers is specialized high temp electric fan motors, this way your brakes are being cooled when you are going slow (under braking) vs just when you are going fast, tests have shown that the flow is not impeded by the fan/motor at high speed as well so it is a win win.

Is the an inline fan? (in the hose?)
 

bluesrt

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That is what I am doing (ACRX) rotors, but heard it will be required for me to get more cooling as they generate more heat.
if your driveing that car in your pic shown, convert and all, just doing the acrx brakes will be fine, cause i would not be driveing too fast in a convertable , wich im shure you allready know this, the big front rotors will create more heat,while also absorbing more in the metal,wich will disapate it fine . but if you want brake duct work, have gts-r 001 work you up a kit and be done
 

Viperless

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Cut the 45 degree bend off the end of the factory duct, attach some 3" brake hose, route it over the lower A-arm, bend it behind the shock and point it at the rotor/caliper. Secure the hose. Not as effective as a full caliper shroud but better than nothing. I've been running that way for three years and have yet to see any overheating issues.
 

treesnake

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-You can also instal titanium brake pad backing plates.

-I am assuming you have already installed SS brake lines...

-Motul 600 brake fluid has a higher boiling point....


 
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05Commemorative

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-You can also instal titanium brake pad backing plates.

-I am assuming you have already installed SS brake lines...

-Motul 600 brake fluid has a higher boiling point....



Yes, already have SS brake line and motul 600 fluid. where do you get the titanium brake pad backing plates?
 
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05Commemorative

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Cut the 45 degree bend off the end of the factory duct, attach some 3" brake hose, route it over the lower A-arm, bend it behind the shock and point it at the rotor/caliper. Secure the hose. Not as effective as a full caliper shroud but better than nothing. I've been running that way for three years and have yet to see any overheating issues.

do you have a picture of your install? just trying to visualize the hose attachment near the rotor (how far away, where attached, etc.)
 

bluesrt

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do you have a picture of your install? just trying to visualize the hose attachment near the rotor (how far away, where attached, etc.)
basicly just like tree has it,use common sense on how far away,or what will work
 

treesnake

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You can see the titanium backing plates in the first photo. The caliper studs are a good idea if you are tracking the car.

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Installed pc stainless screen to keep the "marbles" and debris out of radiator.

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SCLSSRT10

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Remember if you use the ACRX rotors, they are thicker than stock two piece rotors which means you have to use ACRX pads which are thinner and will not last as long. Just go with two peice rotors IE: BREMBO and that way you can use good race pads that are thicker and less expensive than X pads and will last longer. Just one racers opinion.

Additionally when I put the CC cooloing shrouds on my 08 car I had to cut the shrouds so they would not hit the control arms due to the increased truning radius of a stock car versas a CC. Maybe they offer differnt ones now. After all that was 7 years ago that i did that installation.

Steve Loudin
USGT 4 time National Champion GT-2 class
 

treesnake

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Remember if you use the ACRX rotors, they are thicker than stock two piece rotors which means you have to use ACRX pads which are thinner and will not last as long. Just go with two peice rotors IE: BREMBO and that way you can use good race pads that are thicker and less expensive than X pads and will last longer. Just one racers opinion.

Additionally when I put the CC cooloing shrouds on my 08 car I had to cut the shrouds so they would not hit the control arms due to the increased truning radius of a stock car versas a CC. Maybe they offer differnt ones now. After all that was 7 years ago that i did that installation.

Steve Loudin
USGT 4 time National Champion GT-2 class

Interesting...
We have found, and are very happy that our ACR-X brake pads are lasting longer. Probably double.

I am comparing the ACRX pad life to Stoptech rotors (all four) with several different type of race pads.( Carbotech, Brakeman and several
others)
There are five of us that have switched to the ACRX set up and all agree that the pads last longer.

I KNOW there's no way we are going near the speeds that you are. This obviously would explain a lot.

Congratulations again on your Title.....:headbang:
 
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