Gen iv 08, 09 & 10

cashcorn

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I'm in the market for a Gen IV Roadster. Can someone list the differences between the 3 year period. I've read somewhere 08 had hollow half shafts, Is this an exspensive swap to solid shafts?
 

bluesrt

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later 08 went to solid shaft, 09 car the same as 08, maybe some small gov bs like a part added to the frame, but thats all pretty much, 10 are some small factors,tweeks for the better, like transmission gearing and rear areo tweeks- but as a whole all the same beast.
 

SRT09

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What are the solid shafts rated at for hp before people are breaking them?
 

bluesrt

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dont know, but the early half shafts are junk- so get some solid ones
 

Paul Hawker

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Biggest difference I have seen is that in addition to the solid 1/2 shafts 09's have recalibrated throttle that get rid of the lag often reported in the 08's, and 10's have lower ratio 5th and 6th gears to make them slightly less fuel efficient, but also slightly higher performance on very high speed tracks.

For the most part, however, they are all the same car.

Much bigger differences between the Gen III and IV's than between the different year Gen IV's.

All are a blast to drive.
 

Cobraken

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In '09 there were changes to the PCM. Ex: Reprogram of the throttle by wire and other changes that make it much more difficult and expensive to add a skip shift eliminator
 

EZ 2B Green

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I recall reading that the solid shafts started in April 08. I don't remember the source. I don't think any customer ACR's left the plant with hollow half shafts.
 

EZ 2B Green

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Yes, the production 08 ACR's were the last of the 08's built. I think SRT realized they needed solid shafts while testing pre-production ACR's. I'm not 100% sure. We can ask during the next SRT chat.
 

SSGNRDZ_28

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There is a thread called 2008 vs 2009 in which the SRT Engineers State:

There was one change in mid-model year 2008 (roughly mid-April 2008) that affected weight. We upgraded to solid halfshafts on the Viper ACR, which were required due to the added grip. For the sake of simplicity at the assembly plant, that change was made to all Vipers at that time, and added about 6 lbs per vehicle.
 

SSGNRDZ_28

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The entire post, FYI:

As Mark stated, there is little or no perceivable difference in the driving experience between a 2008 and a 2009 Viper. Although the engine software and calibration is different for regulatory reasons and refinement, most customers will never notice a difference.

Some customers have asked if they can install the 2009 calibration in their 2008 vehicles. The answer is no, because the 2009 calibration is not certified for use in 2008 vehicles.

Note that the MOPAR calibration is based off the 2009 production calibration, but there are significant differences that WILL be perceived by the customer.

The fuel tank and the rear frame changed slightly between 2008 and 2009 to meet new federal rear impact requirements. However, these changes are minor and add less than three pounds to the weight of the vehicle. There are no other significant weight changes to the vehicle.

There was one change in mid-model year 2008 (roughly mid-April 2008) that affected weight. We upgraded to solid halfshafts on the Viper ACR, which were required due to the added grip. For the sake of simplicity at the assembly plant, that change was made to all Vipers at that time, and added about 6 lbs per vehicle.

Also, there is a new optional 6 spoke wheel available for 2009. These wheels are roughly the same weight as the Viper ACR Sidewinder wheels, saving approximately 30 lbs per vehicle over the standard 5 spoke wheels.

The bottom line is that you should select your Viper based on your preferences for color, wheels, and other options. Both model years are great cars!
 

SRT09

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So can anyone answer how much stronger the solid half shafts are then the hollow ones?
 

Paul Hawker

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No real reason to overthink this 1/2 shaft issue. Hollow shafts in Gen IV were not prone to issues. They held up fine for street and track use. The only issue is when car is fitted with ultra stickey track tires. This adds additional stress to the driveline that was compensated with changing out to the heavier solid shafts.

If you normally drive with street tires you can take advantage of the additional lightness provided by the lighter weight hollow shafts. If you plan to drive on the track with stickey tires the heavier solid shafts would be the choice.

Lighter weight hollow shafts were chosed by the design team in their quest to provide better handling, fuel economy, reduce unsprung weight, reduce rotational mass, reduce overall vehicle weight, reduce shock travel, and provide a more comfortable ride.

Do not think if would cost much to buy a couple solid shafts from SRT if it is a serious concern. Certaintly much less expensive than the additional market price between an 08 and 09.
 

bluesrt

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i have seen a number of hollow shafts break, but sometimes its for the better due to it gives before something more exspensive gives from the torque of these monsters
 

SRT09

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No real reason to overthink this 1/2 shaft issue. Hollow shafts in Gen IV were not prone to issues. They held up fine for street and track use. The only issue is when car is fitted with ultra stickey track tires. This adds additional stress to the driveline that was compensated with changing out to the heavier solid shafts.

If you normally drive with street tires you can take advantage of the additional lightness provided by the lighter weight hollow shafts. If you plan to drive on the track with stickey tires the heavier solid shafts would be the choice.

Lighter weight hollow shafts were chosed by the design team in their quest to provide better handling, fuel economy, reduce unsprung weight, reduce rotational mass, reduce overall vehicle weight, reduce shock travel, and provide a more comfortable ride.

Do not think if would cost much to buy a couple solid shafts from SRT if it is a serious concern. Certaintly much less expensive than the additional market price between an 08 and 09.

The question I keep asking is how much the solid shafts can take before they break? I have an 09 VOI and was wondering if people put some MT's or Nitto's DR's on if breaking was going to be an issue.
 

Paul Hawker

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1/2 shafts can break from shock, just as much as from torque. (maybe even more). With a little driveline wind up from dumping the clutch on a VHT prepared track to axle ***** from run flat tires or loose bolts in the suspension. Driving full throttle over railroad tracks, or even a wet painted line on the street can cause enough shock to break an axle.

If you add power to your engine, you also should consider beefing up other components.

There is always going to be a weak link on a driveline. If you beef up your 1/2 shafts and hammer it, something else (usually even more expensive) is going to break.

If you are going to stickier tires or to the track you might have stronger 1/2 shafts on your shopping list, however most people drive the stock stuff till it breaks and take their chances.

A broken 1/2 shaft at the track can easily put you into a wall...
 

SRT09

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1/2 shafts can break from shock, just as much as from torque. (maybe even more). With a little driveline wind up from dumping the clutch on a VHT prepared track to axle ***** from run flat tires or loose bolts in the suspension. Driving full throttle over railroad tracks, or even a wet painted line on the street can cause enough shock to break an axle.

If you add power to your engine, you also should consider beefing up other components.

There is always going to be a weak link on a driveline. If you beef up your 1/2 shafts and hammer it, something else (usually even more expensive) is going to break.

If you are going to stickier tires or to the track you might have stronger 1/2 shafts on your shopping list, however most people drive the stock stuff till it breaks and take their chances.

A broken 1/2 shaft at the track can easily put you into a wall...

I realize this but every part ussually has a point that it breaks not taking in account wheel hop etc I'm just trying to see if my Gen4 with bolt on would reach that point.
 

lotti

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Just checked mine manufactor date 6/08 so I must have the solid axles I hope. I run drag radials 75% of the time and make it to the dragstrip several times a year running consistently in the 10.6 range. Makes me feel a little better but I will be upgrading axles when I upgrade rrear differential later in the year. Thanks to all for the info.
 

CaptainDavid

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Drove my 2010 with the top down today 70deg in Atlanta today. There is nothing like a Viper. Yep they changed the 5th gear ratios in the 2010 but can't tell under 160 mph. IMHO you will enjoy any Viper !!!
 

SYNFULL

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How can you tell when your car was made. Have the original window sticker but I don't see it on there.
Thanks
 
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