Help... Need Picture of Front Moton Install

[Scott_in_FL]

Putting in the ClubSports today and the front stockers are off. Now I'm scratching my head trying to decide whether the shock labeling is upside down or not.

Is the shock body supposed to down and the shaft pointing upwards? This would be upside down from stock, but the Moton and Eibach labels would read correctly. Then, the reservoir hose comes from the bottom? I want to mount the reservoir in the well to keep heat to a minimum.

If anyone could go out and take a look at their car and post a pic (or just describe it), I owe you a beer next time you're in South Florida.

Thanks in advance.

Update: After 30 minutes of staring at it, I am convinced that the shock body mounts down and the shaft up. However, now I need to know if the hose mount (at the shock body) points towards the front of the car or towards the rear. This will tell me which one is R and L.

 

[Viper X]

Hey Scott,

The shocks mount conventionally, "right side up" or as you state it, shock body down, shock shaft up. Rebound adjustment is at the top of the shock.

I put the hose mount towards the front so that I could mount the cannisters in the area behind the fog lamps to keep them protected and away from engine heat. They are just behind the little door in the fender towards the front of the car.

Be sure to route the shock lines securely with zip ties and hose rubber to prevent chafing / rubbing against the tires when turning. If you are going to run larger front tires for the track, this is especially important. The lower "A" arms are a good place to secure the shock lines up front, no problems in the back.

It seems that most people mount the front shocks in the engine bay on the metal cross bar just in front of the engine. They look cool there when your raise your hood but they will get a ton of heat from the engine.

If you like a firm, controlled ride, I would suggest you start with the 3 / 4 setting all around. compression on 3, rebound on 4.

Good luck,

Dan

 

[Scott_in_FL]

Dan, thanks for the excellent points. I am going to use all of your suggestions (tie wraps to the control arms and mounting of the canisters in the fog lamp space).

I also received a few pics and I finally have the fronts in. But now the ride height is like a 4x4. And I thought it was bad before. The springs are 500 front and 700 rear.

The adjusting collars are backed down to where they just keep the spring up against the spring perch (which is what I'll call it - it is the slotted gold aluminum disc which seats the spring at the shaft end).

If I screw down the adjusting collars any further on the shock, the spring falls out of the seat and the slotted spring perch can slide off the shaft. Is it right that I need to keep backing it away in that direction even though the whole assembly could come apart?

If that is right, what keeps the spring perch from sliding off the shaft when your driving and you catch a large bump? Theoretically, the suspension could unload entirely, you lose the spring perch, and your suspension is screwed.

What am I doing wrong here?

 

[Viper X]

Scott,

It sounds like you didn't get the small "helper" springs that fit on top of the main shock springs and under the retaining cap. These keep the main springs slightly under pressure and is what keeps the shocks / springs aligned and together when you go over a big bump or go "airborne". If you don't have them, get them.

If I could post pics here, I'd send you some. I can email them to you if you send me your email address. I'm at [email protected].

Who did you buy the Motons from? They should have sold you the small helper springs too. You will need 4.

This is all preference, but 700 is a bit light for the rear springs on an SRT. I run 800s. 500 fronts are OK.

Also, hyopefully, they sold you the eight inch springs and not the seven's. Eights work very well, sevens don't. It will state the length on the spring itself if the printing on the spring is facing you.

Good luck,

Dan

 

[Scott_in_FL]

Dan, that must be the problem. I do not have the helper springs. I'll be sure to order those tomorrow. It all makes sense now. Do I also need some sort of coupling device to keep the two springs mated to one another? Where should I get this stuff?

However, you got me thinking about the length of the springs. I'll have to check those tomorrow and see what I've got.

Thanks for all of the help.

Update: I checked the springs and, thank God, they are the 8 inch. So, at least that part seems correct. I'll get the helpers and a set of 800 lb. rears and give it another go next weekend. Thanks again.

 

[madman]

You don't need helper springs. Once the suspension is settled these springs won't come off even if you have car on the lift. This is my experience.

 

[Viper X]

Scott,

No, you don't need anything else. You could run without the helpers as posted below but I would not recommend it.

Dan

 

[Scott_in_FL]

Thanks to everyone for all of the assistance. The information is priceless.

I researched the issue further today and it appears that having the helper springs are the proper way to install these shocks.

I came across Eibach and Hypercoil helpers in the 2.25" size. The Eibachs are roughly $50/per corner and the Hypercoils are about half that. If both are zero rate springs that perform the same function, is there any reason to spend the extra $$$ on the Eibachs?

I have the Eibach ERS springs 800.225.0500 (front) and 800.225.0700 (rear), but I don't see why that would preclude me from using the Hypercoil helpers.

Also, it appears I do not need a coupler because the shock body itself (2.25" diameter at the body) will keep the two springs aligned with one another.

I'm becoming a spring pro with all this learning.

Anything else I need to complete this project?