How to burp cooling system??

[isanti]

I have a hard metal upper radiator pipe from a paxton kit and noticed a small leak a week ago. Took it off, fixed the leak put it back together and cannot figure out how to burp it. Typically you keep squeezing the upper hose (I think) but I cant since mine is a pipe!

I threw coolant in throught the resivior cap and let it run for a bit (cap off). I would add coolant as needed but sometimes it would backup and piss all over the ground, then quickly go back down to where I have to add and it may backup again.

I took it out on an hour drive and noticed while driving down the highway the gauge would go from normal to near hot and then back down pretty quickly. Seemed to cycle like this so seems to me as if there is a big air gap in the system.

I got home and parked it in my garage and the car puked coolant all over the floor.

Any ideas on how I can fix this/burp the system?

Thanks,
John

 

[plumcrazy]

the search feature is a terrible thing to waste

 

[Olddudesrule]

Ah yes, the search feature....How many of these "burping" threads have I read in the last five months?

 

[LifeIsGood]

Any ideas on how I can fix this/burp the system?

John,

I had a cooling issue last year and just recently replaced my water pump (see thread...Coolant leak), upper and lower radiator hoses and flushed the coolant system. I also installed the ROE Upper Radiator Hose Bleeder Kit, so burping mine was very easy. The service manual has the following bleeding instructions...

Cooling System Bleeding

(a) Ensure the heater control valve is in the open position
(b) Remove the cooling system bleed plug from the thermostat housing (7-9, Fig 3)
(c) Continue filling the cooling system (through the coolant pressure bottle) until the coolant is level with the bleed plug opening
(d) Install the cooling system bleed plug (7-9, Fig 3)
(e) Continue filling the cooling system until the coolant is level is above the top seam of the coolant pressure bottle
(f) Install the cap on the coolant pressure bottle (7-10, Fig 6)

NOTE: The engine cooling system will push any remaining air into the coolant bottle within about an hour of normal driving. As a result, a drop in coolant level in the pressure bottle may occur.

The system bleed plug has been mentioned in a number of these types of threads as being the least favorite option for bleeding...nonetheless, here is a picture of where it is (it's about the same height has the upper radiator hose)...

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I also installed the following new radiator cap (STANT Safety Release Radiator Cap - 10330 (boxed) or 11330 (carded))...

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[GTS Bruce]

ROE HOSES with bleeder valve

 

[Jance GTS]

Do you need to raise the car up to change out your lower radiator hose? I need to replace both of mine.

 

[1TONY1]

Do you need to raise the car up to change out your lower radiator hose? I need to replace both of mine.

Access to the bottom hose/bottom clamp will be much easier if you can get under the front of the car.

 

[Steve-Indy]

JanceGTS, Tony is spot on. If you cannot raise your Viper, the tough end of the lower hose removal CAN be the "motor end". During removal,the OEM hose clamp here can slip off of the lower radiator hose, moving up on to the "pipe" leading to the water pump where it can be a real struggle to remove (whether accessed from above or below or BOTH).

A tool that can be very helpful is one of the cable-type clamp removers...such as:

SHCP1, Pliers, Hose Clamp, Heavy Duty

 

[Jance GTS]

Thanks for the info! I wanted to swap them out this weekend but didn't get a chance. I don't plan on driving the car for another couple of weeks. Should I do this now or wait until later so I can drive the car to get it to warm up? Or do you think it will be fine to wait to drive it after the swap? I hope that made sense haha.

 

[Jance GTS]

Do I need to swap them out now, or wait until I can drive it in a few weeks? Thanks!

 

[Steve-Indy]

Your preference...my own is to be able to drive the car before coolant change, let it cool off, dump coolant & change hoses...refill, de-air...topping up as necessary(constantly checking hoses for drips, or "creep")...then driving frequently several full drive cycles (full hot, full cool off) monitoring both the coolant level in the pressure bottle and the overflow bottle as well as the hoses...sort of coolant "intensive care" until I'm SURE system stable and back to "normal". This takes ME about a week!!!

 

[Jance GTS]

I got my hoses off tonight. What is the best way to flush out the system? I do not have a water hose handy.

My fascia bottle is just a little below min. Since I have the Samco hoses, I don't need a spring inside the lower radiator hose, correct? Thanks!

Oh and what coolant should I put back into the system? Thanks!

 

[kcobean]

I got my hoses off tonight. What is the best way to flush out the system? I do not have a water hose handy.

My fascia bottle is just a little below min. Since I have the Samco hoses, I don't need a spring inside the lower radiator hose, correct? Thanks!

Oh and what coolant should I put back into the system? Thanks!

Not sure about the flush, but as for the coolant, most folks are going with the orange dex-cool, per the expert recommendation of one of the guys here on the board. Do a search for post relating to coolant by screen name "Tom, F&L GoR", you'll see.

 

[Jance GTS]

I have not been able to locate any threads so far about that coolant. I'll keep searching.

 

[LifeIsGood]

I got my hoses off tonight. What is the best way to flush out the system? I do not have a water hose handy.

I drained my coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator and the two cylinder block drain plugs. I filled the cooling system with distilled water...ran the engine through a few heat cycles and then drained the distilled water the same as the first time.

My fascia bottle is just a little below min. Since I have the Samco hoses, I don't need a spring inside the lower radiator hose, correct? Thanks!

I also installed Samco hoses, but I didn't add any springs. I don't know if they're needed or not.

Oh and what coolant should I put back into the system? Thanks!

I used Peak Global LifeTime ($12.49 per gallon from NAPA). It was recommended by Tom, F&L GoR.

 

[Jance GTS]

Thank you very much Ken! I've got my front fascia off too (Installing fog lights). Do I need to dump out the fascia bottle when I'm flushing the rest of my system?

Just add distilled water to the coolant bootle until it's full? Let the car idle for 10-20 minutes with the heater on high, drain the rest of system removing the distilled water, and then fill it back up with Peak Global LifeTime coolant? Correct?

Owners manual says it's 17.5 quarts. So I need to get 5 bottles of the 1 gallon coolant correct? I didn't do so well at math in school

And it's the one in the gold bottle and not the blue?

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Thank you!

 

[LifeIsGood]

This was the method that I used. I put it together by reading numerous threads and talking to Sean Roe.
Bleeding the coolant system was very easy for me since I installed the ROE Racing upper radiator hose bleeder kit.

I purchased 4 gallons of distilled water for the flush.
I purchased 2 gallons of Peak Global LifeTime (gold jug) and 2 gallons of distilled water for the final fill. I used a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water.

My method:

Install the ROE Racing upper radiator hose bleeder kit in the new upper radiator hose
Install the new upper radiator hose
Install a new radiator cap

Drain the cooling system

Shield the accessory drive belt and pulleys with shop towels (coolant should not come into contact with these surfaces)
Remove the coolant pressure bottle cap
Ensure the heater control valve is in the open position (turn the heater on)
Open the bleeder valve on the upper radiator hose
Raise the viper via the lift
Position a plastic tarp on the floor under the front half of the viper
Drain the radiator

Position the drain tank funnel under the lower radiator hose connection with the radiator
Remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator
Drain the coolant/water into the drain tank​

Passenger side cylinder block drain

Remove the passenger side exhaust sensor (22 mm wrench) and position it out of the way
Put a piece of painters tape over the sensor hole in the exhaust
Remove the heat shield cover that is just below the drain plug (1/2" wrench)
Cover the wiring that was protected by the heat shield cover with painters tape
To protect the surrounding area from coolant/water, make a drain shield by cutting a 2" hole in the middle of a piece of plastic drop cloth that is approximately 3' x 4'
Position the hole around the cylinder head plug and tape the plastic drain shield around the hole
Position the rest of the plastic drain shield so that the surrounding undercarriage areas are protected from draining coolant/water; tape off the drain shield to keep it in place
Position the drain tank funnel under the passenger side cylinder block drain plug
Remove the passenger side cylinder block drain plug (5/16" pipe plug socket) located behind the exhaust manifold
Drain the coolant/water into the drain tank​

Driver side cylinder block drain

Repeat the passenger side for the driver side (minus the heat shield cover)​

Connect the lower radiator hose to the radiator
Remove the passenger side plastic drain shield
Remove the driver side plastic drain shield
Install the passenger side cylinder block drain plug (use PTFE tape)
Install the heat shield cover
Install the passenger side exhaust sensor
Install the driver side cylinder block drain plug (use PTFE tape)
Install the driver side exhaust sensor
Lower the viper via the lift
Remove and clean the overflow tank located in the front fascia
Install the overflow tank

Fill the cooling system

Fill the overflow bottle half full with coolant/water
Ensure the heater control valve is in the open position (turn the heater on)
Open the bleeder valve on the upper radiator hose
Slowly fill the coolant pressure bottle with coolant/water
Continue filling the cooling system (this process goes very slow towards the end) until the coolant/water level is just below the level of the drain to the overflow bottle
Fill until the coolant/water semi-fills the upper radiator hose or you just can't get any more in the coolant pressure bottle
Close the bleeder valve in the upper radiator hoss
Remove the shop towels that were protecting the accessory drive belt and pulleys
Install the cap on the coolant pressure bottle
Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes to get it warm (100+ degrees, the thermostat won’t open until the engine temperature gets above 190 or so), to pressurize the system and move the air into the upper radiator hose
Turn off the engine
Place a shop towel under the upper radiator hose bleed valve
Open the valve in the upper radiator hose to bleed any trapped air in the cooling system
Add coolant/water to the pressure coolant tank
Close the bleeder valve in the upper radiator hose
Remove the shop towel that is under the upper radiator hose bleed valve
Repeat: start, stop, bleed, add coolant/water​

End of method.

I also (after the flush, before the final fill):

Removed, cleaned and re-installed the coolant pressure bottle
Installed a new water pump
Installed new water pump hoses (2 smaller ones)
Installed a new lower radiator hose
Replaced the hose that runs from the coolant pressure bottle to the overflow bottle
Replaced spring clamps with worm clamps
Installed worm clamps to some connections that had no clamps
Replaced the tree fasteners used in the front fascia with body bolts​

 

[Jance GTS]

Thanks Ken great write up! Do I need to do the Passenger side cylinder block drain?

When I get my antifreeze, just pour both gallons into a bucket and then add 2 gallons of distilled water and go from there when I go to fill up the system? I just want to check I understand your directions before I miss a step

 

[LifeIsGood]

Yes, both sides need to be drained. I mixed the coolant and distilled water into 1 gallon jugs, but I don't think it matters as long as you get the 50/50 mix. You'll want to use a gallon or smaller size container to do the fills...it goes pretty slow and holding the container over a funnel in the coolant pressure bottle gets tiring.

 

[jcaspar1]

Excellent write-up. I usually start filling the system via the upper radiator hose (removed from block) then finish with the pressure bottle. Goes a lot faster.

Yes, both sides need to be drained. I mixed the coolant and distilled water into 1 gallon jugs, but I don't think it matters as long as you get the 50/50 mix. You'll want to use a gallon or smaller size container to do the fills...it goes pretty slow and holding the container over a funnel in the coolant pressure bottle gets tiring.

 

[LifeIsGood]

One more thing that I forgot to mention. I did drain and add distilled water to the overflow bottle while performing the flush. I added the 50/50 mix to the overflow bottle (filled it half full) before I started the final fill of the coolant system.

 

[Jance GTS]

Yes, both sides need to be drained. I mixed the coolant and distilled water into 1 gallon jugs, but I don't think it matters as long as you get the 50/50 mix. You'll want to use a gallon or smaller size container to do the fills...it goes pretty slow and holding the container over a funnel in the coolant pressure bottle gets tiring.

Thanks again Ken! I hate to sound completely helpless on this, but does anyone have a picture showing where the drain plugs are? I looked tonight and there are several areas and harnesses that I could mess with, but I'm not exactly sure. Sorry!

 

[AZTVR]

Thanks again Ken! I hate to sound completely helpless on this, but does anyone have a picture showing where the drain plugs are? I looked tonight and there are several areas and harnesses that I could mess with, but I'm not exactly sure. Sorry!

I remembered reading a thread with a photo in it. Found it in here: http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/616457-engine-coolant-flush-question.html

 

[Jance GTS]

Thanks Jim I found the photo! That helps so I will try to look for that now. Too bad I don't have a lift! LOL

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I bet they are hard to get too from the top of the engine reaching down underneath?

 

[LifeIsGood]

Here's a picture from underneath...

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[Jance GTS]

Thanks Ken! I've been to Wal-Mart, O'Reilly's, Auto Zone and Napa and no one has the Peak Performance in the gold bottle. Everyone has the 5 year long life blue bottle that doesn't require adding water since it's 50/50.

Should I just use the blue bottle, or should I wait and order the gold bottle if it makes that much difference? Not having to mix would save me some time.

 

[eucharistos]

ken,

write up



thanks

 

[LifeIsGood]

Thanks Ken! I've been to Wal-Mart, O'Reilly's, Auto Zone and Napa and no one has the Peak Performance in the gold bottle. Everyone has the 5 year long life blue bottle that doesn't require adding water since it's 50/50.

Should I just use the blue bottle, or should I wait and order the gold bottle if it makes that much difference? Not having to mix would save me some time.

I'm assuming that you're talking about the PEAK Long Life 50/50 Prediluted Antifreeze & Coolant.

They're not the same...the PEAK Global™ LifeTime™ Antifreeze & Coolant is, I'm assuming, a step above the PEAK Long Life 50/50 Prediluted Antifreeze & Coolant, but I don't know that for sure. I can't really recommend one over the other, since my decision was based on the recommendation from Tom, F&L GoR who is an expert in this field.

Here is the PEAK Antifreeze Reference Chart.

I had to order my two gallons of PEAK Global™ LifeTime™ Antifreeze & Coolant from NAPA. They had it in a local warehouse, so it only took 1 day.

 

[Jance GTS]

I hate small towns... Auto Zone acted like I was crazy trying to special order antifreeze, and OReilly's says they can get it but I might have to order a case of 6 just to get my 2...

Should I wait to drain the block because it might be next week before I can fill it back up... Will it hurt to have it empty for that long? Thanks!

 

[LifeIsGood]

I doubt that it will hurt anything...I left my lower radiator hose disconnected, coolant pressure bottle (radiator) cap off and both drain plugs out for a couple of days after the initial drain and also after the flush.