I got two brand new remotes for my 1998 gts. Can someone post instructions to program

[Qualitywires.com]

I would like a step by step instruction how to program these remotes (2). Thanks in advance!

 

[JonB]

STEP ONE: take to Viper Tech w/ DRB-III to progarm them
STEP TWO : Pay Bill
STEP THREE: Drive away

 

[Qualitywires.com]

Is there a do it yourself version Jon B? I don't have the time to goto the dealership..and don't want to drop it off for just that...plus..I don't want any copies of my remotes floating around. So, I guess I will do it the hard way.

 

[Ron]

<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">
Check your e-mail
</FONT f>

 

[Ron]

<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">The ECU has nothing to do with the alarm. It's the EEM (electronic entry module) that controls the FOB / alarm function.

I had to program all 4 of my FOB's myself after my (former) 5 Star Viper Tech said it was done, only to have the alarm set (via the door lock switch) and then finding out the idiot forgot to program them... If you want some fun one weekend, try resetting an activated alarm on a '96 ~ '97 GTS. (They do not have the key reset switch like '98+ Vipers do)

My advice, do it yourself - DRBIII not required.

Oh, one other thing to think about. Synchronizing (resync) your FOB's is not the same as programming. Resync just matches the rolling code that your FOB's send out with the EEM. The manual's resync instructions will do nothing if the FOB isn't already programmed into you EEM. </FONT f>

 

[jcaspar1]

Ron,
How do you do it? I to have tried the method in the service manual (grounding green lead of EEM) and it didn't work for me either.

 

[99 R/T 10]

Ron,
I would like to know also, I have a 96R/T and need another fob. Would I need to get the new fob programed before trying?
Thanks,

Mike

 

[Ron]

<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">
By popular demand:

1. Ensure the alarm system is not armed.

2. (1996 ~ 1998 GEN II) Ground pin C13 loose green wire taped to harness of EEM connector, which is under dash mounted on the left side of trans tunnel, directly above accelerator. Easy access if you remove knee bolster and rubber bungee cord that holds EEM to tunnel.

2A. (1999 ~ 2000) As #2, but instead of C13 you're grounding Terminal 1 of the DLC. (since I have a 1996 GTS, I have no clue what a DLC is)

2B. (ALL GEN I) Ground green "Program" Wire located next to SAM and RKE modules. Is a green wire with a bullet connector on end. Is located under driver's side instrument panel.

Hint, Make sure you're connecting to a solid body ground by testing it with an ohm meter.

3. Turn ignition to run position while green wire is still grounded!

4. EEM acknowledges entry into programming mode by flashing the dash LED. If it doesn't flash, you either:

- Have the wrong wire

- Aren't solidly grounded

- You came off ground after the ignition switch was placed in the run position. Start over.

5. (All GEN II) Press BOTH buttons on the transmitter simultaneously and continuously for 10 seconds. You will hear a triple horn chirp when FOB is accepted by the EEM.

5B. (All GEN I) Press and release the arm or disarm button on either FOB, then same for the next.

Hint: Make sure your transmitter is working, i.e fresh CR2032 battery $1.19 @ Zbattery.com and good clean battery contacts. Many times your problem is an electrically weak connection within the FOB itself.

6. You MUST program all FOBS during the same programming process. You can program up to 4 on a GEN II and I think only 2 on a GEN I.

That's it. Turn the ignition off and remove green wire from ground, then test the arm and disarm functions.

I've done 4 FOBS myself and found it quite easy once you find the green wire.

p.s. Mike,

No there is no pre-programming required. The above instruction cover it

</FONT f>

 

[jcaspar1]

Thanks Ron,
Worked like a charm this time. Silly me, I was following the instructions in the service manuel which states to hold down "either one" of the buttons to program the FOB. Another one to add to the errata sheet!

 

[Ron]

<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">Glad I could help.

JES,

Yes I too was wondering what my Viper Tech forgot to reconnect prior to figuring out that it was the programming wire.</FONT f>

 

[JonB]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Vipermad:
Ron,
Welcome to the archives!!!

Yes, slowly but surely the archives will be populated. Also, slowly but surely we will be able to slide items of interest right into the archives as needed!! Next time, just refer everyone to the archives....it IS there now! <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

THE BEST NEWS I'VE READ HERE IN A LONG TIME ! THANKS

 

[99 R/T 10]

Thanks Ron, great info!

Mike

 

[Charlie]

ADAM
Did you ever join the VCA or are you still just lurking and using the helpful members for info.. Since you have a new car why not step up and become a new member, Join the club it's worth it.

 

[Qualitywires.com]

Thanks for the advice Charlie. I think I've helped many owners here in some sort or another. So if you are implying, I'm a leach..which I hope you're not..I think I do fine in here.

I buy things from Jon B and he gives me good advice...so I think things are fair in here. I've made many friends here..so..a badge doesn't justify who I am. I will join when I'm ready too. Infact I will send you an e-mail when I do so I can get your approval.

I'm sure we will meet up soon in person since I have many friends and Family in Louisville KY. Looking forward to meeting you.

 

[Charlie]

Adam
I wasn't insenuating that you were a leach. I just see you on here all the time and the VCA is such a great organization. I know you have made friends and enjoyed the board. Buying things from Jon B is great but it doesn't do a thing for the VCA. I have done business with Jon B and he is a great guy and always very helpful but the VCA and Jon are two seperate entities. I just thought a little friendly proding might get you on board, so to speak

By the way what are you going to do if I don't consent to you joining.. Since I know you are sensitive you must also know I was just kidding about the last comment..

Take care

PS.. We have already met

 

[Qualitywires.com]

Okay..Charlie..it's been taking lightly..sorry if I came off as being defensive. Just can't tell sometimes with just posting. Hmm..maybe we did meet....in IN at the storage facility?

I will be joining here soon as soon as I get settled down. I will join the AL and Tampa, FL crew. No hard feelings here. Just been getting prodded here and there about the wing, but I guess it goes with the territory. Take it easy, see ya around.

P.s. If you don't approve of me joinging...I will have to have the wingman's VCA club of my own.

 

[Supercharged Vipermad]

bump

 

[Qualitywires.com]

Now Tony, are you trying to get me wired up again? ha!

 

[SYNFULL]

Re: I got two brand new remotes for my 1998 gts. Can someone post instructi

Can anyone tell me where terminal 1 of the DLC is located to program my remote on a 99 gts. I am assuming it is the data link connecter where the scan tool goes but have no idea which is terminal 1.
I checked my service manual and it says to groung green pig tail wire at eem. I can not fing any green pigtail wire at the eem.
Thanks
Gary

 

[Eric H]

Re: I got two brand new remotes for my 1998 gts. Can someone post instructi

it should be taped to the side if the bundle of wires that connects to the EEM, i'll go out and see if i can take a picture.

 

[SYNFULL]

Re: I got two brand new remotes for my 1998 gts. Can someone post instructi

Eric,
I think for the 99 I need terminal 1 of the DLC not the EEM which is what you use on 98 and older cars. That it what I trying to find out, and what wire is terminal 1 of the DLC.
Thanks for your help
Gary

 

[santo]

Re: I got two brand new remotes for my 1998 gts. Can someone post instructi

Enclosed is a picture of the ODBII (DLC) connector for those looking for "pin 1" on 99+ Vipers. I tried it myself and it works.

Hope this helps,
Santo