I Shamed Myself...

[ViperTony]

I'm in the midst of a timeout under the Great Tree of Woe! For I have presented the great Viper Wizard with over-torqued spark plugs on my GenII. I, unfortunately , over-torqued not one...but three spark plugs and the Wizard broke the three of them trying to get them off. Fortunately, none of the threads in the block were damaged. Chuck says it may be due to me eating too much spinach and not knowing my own strength. Though, when using the force I've never had this problem but I do blame my cheap torque wrench. About two weeks ago, I tried to have it re-calibrated and instead they ended up throwing it away because it was POS. I'm ordering a real torque wrench from Snap-On today.

Moral of the story:

- DON'T OVER TIGHTEN YOUR SPARK PLUGS.
- USE QUALITY TOOLS

I now must continue my timeout. Chuck is making me read the service manual from cover to cover 3 times and there will be a quiz on torque specs for various bolts on the Viper.

(Thank you Chuck & Rob for showing me the error of my ways)

- Tony

 

[Ratical2]

Repentance is good for the soul,
Go and overtorque no more!

 

[mike & juli]

LOL...methinks Chuck's onto something, you don't know your own strength, Popeye~! The things you all put poor CHUCK & ROB through!!! Hey, is BAZ there yet too? To add his .02, ya know: Bumble-Bee to Bumble-Bee??? ~juli

 

[Mopar Boy]

Tony - Too funny!

You had better smarten up. Just think what would happen if Chuck found something else on the car too tight! The horror!

Robert

 

[mad0953]

Probably the nut behind the wheel is a little too tight as well.

 

[LifeIsGood]

Okay Tony, since you are on the torque wrench topic, I'll hijack your thread...What brands/models of torque wrench do you guys recommend? I've never owned one so I don't know anything about torque wrench options? I have seen that they can be expensive...I'm assuming it's one of those 'you get what you pay for' things...so I should prepare to ante up to purchase a good one.

 

[ViperTony]

Probably the nut behind the wheel is a little too tight as well.

LOL...true, my wife has established that fact looonnggg ago!

 

[Steve-Indy]

I like Snap-On...picking specific ones for the torque range needed...and trying to handle them carefully--including always returning them to a "zero" setting when finished...plus periodic recalibration.

 

[GTS-R 001]

I like Snap-On...picking specific ones for the torque range needed...and trying to handle them carefully--including always returning them to a "zero" setting when finished...plus periodic recalibration.

Good points, I bet very few people reset their torque wrench to zero, ever.

 

[ViperJohn]

20 ft-lbs, just did mine this past weekend and had to dig out the service manual because I couldn't remember. Did you put any anti-sieze on the threads when you originally put them in?

 

[Chopper]

You will need to say 3 Hail-Mary's and 2 Our-Fathers.

 

[dave6666]

What brands/models of torque wrench do you guys recommend?

Not Harbor Freight for sure!!!

I've used mainly Proto, CDI, and recently bought an SK Tools. All calibrated at Team Torque with no complaints. Expect to spend at least $100 for a small one (up to 150#), and more $$ for a big one (250#).

Snap-on is also good but rai$e the figures above

...including always returning them to a "zero" setting when finished......

Good points, I bet very few people reset their torque wrench to zero, ever.

I'll slightly clarify this. The correct static setting (wrench ain't in use...) is not "zero" but the minimum setting of that wrench. I have 4 torque wrenches and I think maybe one actually has a zero setting. Maybe. I know the others only go down to 20 to 30 ft pounds as a minimum setting. And yes, they are set there right now.

I could just see someone unscrewing the handle off the end looking for zero...

 

[LifeIsGood]

Okay thanks...I did a little research...now, what type of torque wrench...micrometer click type, dial type, other? What about range for use on the viper..10-80, 20-100, 50-200, other? I hope to be doing hi-flo cats and cat back exhaust soon and will also need to remove the wheels soon. I don't mind having to buy a couple of them.

 

[ViperTony]

I didn't use anti-seize. I can't recall ever using anti-seize on plugs over the years but I may in the future. I've never experience this problem before when I torqued by feel but lesson learned I guess. Here's a pic of the three broken plugs:

I was surprised to see they broke up top, I was expecting some kind of separation near the threaded section.

 

[Jerome Sparich]

I have that happen often from either no rubber in the socket, or just plain ole twisting the socket in a sideways motion. Operator error on my part.

When you twist off the hex and everything above it, that is a problem. Happens mostly on the newer *** cars with aluminum heads and higher miles. Then you have nothing but the threaded section left in the head.

 

[Ratical2]

That #1 plug looks almost new(except for the missing top). How many miles on the set of plugs?

 

[ViperTony]

That #1 plug looks almost new(except for the missing top). How many miles on the set of plugs?

There were on there for about 4K miles or so and I've installed them removed them at least 2-3 times over the past year for various things like compression/leakdown tests, rocker, pushrod installation and valve-lash adjustments. The one thing I noticed is there appears to be some dirt/substance on the some of the threads. Not oil or lubricant. Maybe I got some sand trapped in the threads the last time I removed the plugs although I always blow out the spark plug recesses with compressed air before removing them. I blame my torque wrench on this one and I won't be using it on plugs anymore. Going back to the force.

I have that happen often from either no rubber in the socket, or just plain ole twisting the socket in a sideways motion. Operator error on my part.

When Chuck or Rob says these were on there really tight and they had to use a breaker bar to remove these plugs, I believe them. I can see how the force needed to break-free overly torqued plugs can cause the ceramic to break. I'm very lucky in that the threads in the blocked were not stripped...that would've been just a painful repair bill (although a great excuse for an NA engine build-up). Lessons learned.

 

[Jerome Sparich]

I am not saying they weren't tight, just saying they could have been much worse. The ceramic cracks a that high level not from being tight, but from the socket doing a number on it for whatever reason. It would crack of the metal joining area or lower in the threads if it was really tight.

Using a breaker bar explains how they did crack where they did, twisting of the wrench on the wrong axis. Ever see a "tech" use a 3/8" inpact gun to remove a plug? What is left is in the socket....and the ceramic is in small bits now on top of the piston. (said "tech" was fired when it was discovered just what he did)

When you snap them clean off just above the threads, splitting the metal portion top from bottom, then that is tight.

When my vacation is over and I am back at work, I will look for some that will show this.

 

[CarterViper]

I prefer, and feel that Matco makes the best tools. I am a Matco dealer so I believe in the tools I sell. If you feel like checking out Matco Tools | Professional Hand Tools, Power Tools, Tool Storage and Automotive Service Equipment you can find the model that you prefer and I would be happy to sell it to you. Send me a PM with the model numbers that you like and I will gladly give you a price. Thanks
Corey