TexasSnake
Enthusiast
Will it be necessary to have a wheel alignment performed after installing and lowering my car with KW coilover shocks? Also, how much of a pain are they to install and adjust?
Thanks...
Thanks...
KW coilover shocks?
- Thread starter TexasSnake
- Start date
redtanrt10
Enthusiast
You'll need to align your viper after you install and lower.
Fairly straight forward to install, rears are easier but you'll need to pull out the inner wheel wells. Take a look at the viper manual for instructions, KW manual is just for adjustments. You'll need a floor jack, jack stands and also a center punch (for the fronts). It took me a friend about 2 hours last weekend to remove my KW's and put the stock ones back.
Adjustments are fairly easy, set the rebound at the half way mark to start, then see if you want to adjust later. Height is easy to adjust, be careful not to go to low, less than 2 fingers, if you plan to track on a road course, as you'll tear up the rear inner wheel wells.
Fairly straight forward to install, rears are easier but you'll need to pull out the inner wheel wells. Take a look at the viper manual for instructions, KW manual is just for adjustments. You'll need a floor jack, jack stands and also a center punch (for the fronts). It took me a friend about 2 hours last weekend to remove my KW's and put the stock ones back.
Adjustments are fairly easy, set the rebound at the half way mark to start, then see if you want to adjust later. Height is easy to adjust, be careful not to go to low, less than 2 fingers, if you plan to track on a road course, as you'll tear up the rear inner wheel wells.
TexasSnake
Enthusiast
A few questions...
1) Do you have to remove the inner wheel wells on both front and rear?
2) What is the center punch used to mark?
3) I won't ever track on a road course (only some playful dragracing) so how low can I actually lower the car?
Is this something that someone who is not really mechanically experienced can pull off? The extent of my regular mechanical activities are oil changes, diff fluid changes, spark plug/wire changes and battery changes.
Thanks for you advice...
redtanrt10
Enthusiast
1. Just the rear inner wheel wells, 10 screws, 2 bolts? Very easy, you need to remove them to get to the top of the shocks.
2. Here's why you need the center punch, from the book; "loosen but do not remove. nut attaching stablizer bar link to lower control arm. Back off and position nut at end of link stud. Position center punch in dimple on end of stablizer bar link stud. Strike center punch with hammer, releasing link stud from lower control arm. Remove nut."
For me an my neighbor this was the hardest part. You need to have good leverage, jack up as high as you can. We beat the @#$% out of it on one side and had to replace the nut. ($0.25 at the hardware store).
3. Fairly low, maybe 1 to 1 1/2 fingers from the tire to the fender lip. (1 1/2 in. max drop) Stock your at 3 plus today. If the roads are smooth and no high speed bumps you'll be OK. Keep an eye on the inner fenders, you'll hear it when it hits, sustained hits tear them up, eventually your tire will come in contact with a bolt above the rear wheel wells that will put a groove in your tire.
I think it's something you can do. Besides the tools, jack, etc I said above, get a friend with some mechanical ability to help you with the logic if you get stumped. With the exception of the sometimes difficult, stablizer link stud, it's easy and straightforward. In the end you'll be happy with the lowered look and have a great sense of accomplishment.
Do you have the factory manual? If not send me a note and I'll bring it to work and fax you a copy.
Mike
2. Here's why you need the center punch, from the book; "loosen but do not remove. nut attaching stablizer bar link to lower control arm. Back off and position nut at end of link stud. Position center punch in dimple on end of stablizer bar link stud. Strike center punch with hammer, releasing link stud from lower control arm. Remove nut."
For me an my neighbor this was the hardest part. You need to have good leverage, jack up as high as you can. We beat the @#$% out of it on one side and had to replace the nut. ($0.25 at the hardware store).
3. Fairly low, maybe 1 to 1 1/2 fingers from the tire to the fender lip. (1 1/2 in. max drop) Stock your at 3 plus today. If the roads are smooth and no high speed bumps you'll be OK. Keep an eye on the inner fenders, you'll hear it when it hits, sustained hits tear them up, eventually your tire will come in contact with a bolt above the rear wheel wells that will put a groove in your tire.
I think it's something you can do. Besides the tools, jack, etc I said above, get a friend with some mechanical ability to help you with the logic if you get stumped. With the exception of the sometimes difficult, stablizer link stud, it's easy and straightforward. In the end you'll be happy with the lowered look and have a great sense of accomplishment.
Do you have the factory manual? If not send me a note and I'll bring it to work and fax you a copy.
Mike
ulllose
Viper Owner
Why did you remove the KW's? Are they for sale? Thanks Which model are they?
redtanrt10
Enthusiast
I just bought a used '08 coupe
TexasSnake
Enthusiast
Yes I have the factory manual but thanks for the offer. And again, thank you very much for all your info and help.
Have a good night,
Justin
redtanrt10
Enthusiast
Justin, best wishes, post pictures when you're done. Where do you live in Houston? I'm a UofH grad, had a great time there from '74 to '89. My folks are retired and live in Hearthstone, near 290 and 6, we'll be their for Christmas.
TexasSnake
Enthusiast
I was born in Freeport and grew up in Jones Creek (booming metropolis of 1200 folks). I've been traveling for my career for the past decade and am currently working and living in New Jersey (just across the river from Philly, PA).
