looking for forged pistons 3.995/4.000

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I am looking to purchase a set of forged pistons for my 488. The shop says my block looks good. I could probably go with stock size 3.995 piston/ 4.000 bore or go +.005 4.000piston/4.005 bore. 4 out of 10 of my old pistons have hairline cracks in the skirts. Not sure how that happened.

Roe racing has my eye right now as their diamonds sell for $1250/set. Wait time is 3 weeks according to their website.

I just wanted to see what else was out there right now in a 3.995 or 4.000 size. I think I paid $600 for my Ross pistons in my turbocharged 455 pontiac!
 

mbccenter

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I have a set of eagle rods and JE pistons laying around. I think they may add a little stroke,
 

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I think I have 7 good ones from my racing motor. Let me find out the specs on them.
 

Fatboy 18

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I have a brand new box of oem size Diamond pistons sitting on a shelve in my garage, Only problem is Im in the UK.
By the time you added the shipping and duty you would be better off getting the new ones from Roe :(
 
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Ellow,
good to know about the rings with the Roe pistons. The website should def. mention that.

I've got a couple people investigating their used-but-not-abused stuff as well. Will from RSI thinks he may have a set of 3.995 or 4.000 CP pistons that were hardly used. I need good measurements and photos.

Great response from this thread! Thanks.
 

Jack B

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did the car over heat or run low on oil, just wondering why all the damage. It sounds like it seized up.
 
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According to Archer Racing, sometimes the 3/4 rod bearings don't get enough pressure (they have a fix for that however-tapping and running an extra oil line from somewhere secret to somewhere secret). I was running full oil level, had the trap door oil pan. Car overheated 2 yrs ago on the street when OEM radiator gave out. We are having a hard time understanding the hairline cracks in the piston skirts, however.

Strange. Car put down 440rwhp, but crank was setup super tight!. I could NOT turn crank by hand after I had removed all pistons, and was no crank thrust play at all. I could not even measure .0005 (the limit of my dial). Crank bearings didn't look too bad, though. Go figure. This is the 2nd strongest "stock" gen2 viper I've seen.
 

EllowViper

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When I pulled mine down and replaced the mains, I couldn't get stock bearing sizes and had to go .001 undersized. I figured the crank would have worn at least .001 for a 30K mile motor...but when I put the .001 mains in and started to sequentially torque the mains, the crank started to seize. At that point I pulled it back out since the clearances were obviously too tight and took it to my crank guy to get the bearings fitted to the crank (the right way). When I reassembled, the clearances were perfect and the crank spun freely before, during, and after torqueing. Lesson learned...these cranks don't wear much and the clearances are tight.
 
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I wanted to put .001 mains back in my engine, but the crank grinder went off on his own and ground it without even talking to me! And this is supposed to be a decent shop, too (about 100 miles away from where I live but they have weekly pickup and delivery in Austin). Even if they do good work, their customer service *****. I guess I should've paid the extra money to ship the crank to houston:rolleyes: (where RSI sends their cranks).
 
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Well, nothing really panned out for me over the past week so I bit the bullet and ordered a set of pistons from ROE. And they do NOT come with rings:rolleyes:

Lots of thanks to Will over at RSI for turning his shop upside down trying to help me out.
 

EllowViper

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Well, nothing really panned out for me over the past week so I bit the bullet and ordered a set of pistons from ROE. And they do NOT come with rings:rolleyes:

Lots of thanks to Will over at RSI for turning his shop upside down trying to help me out.

I guess that deal ended then....but regardless, I've got over 30K on mine with a blower and the engine is as strong as ever.
 

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