MGW Shift Knob Choice
- Thread starter GR8_ASP
- Start date
doctorbob
Enthusiast
I have the grey First Strike on my SRT and I am sure George has some pics on previous threads. It makes all the difference.
Y2K5SRT
Enthusiast
I originally had the Gripper knob on my GTS and then switched it to the First Strike knob when George released that. I really liked the First Strike knob better, as it has a much better feel, especially if you do a "pistol grip" much of the time as I do. Like the GTS, the first mod on the SRT was from MGW:
You can't go wrong with either one, but the First Strike knob is awesome...
Chris
You must be registered for see images
You can't go wrong with either one, but the First Strike knob is awesome...
Chris
FASTRNU
Enthusiast
How hard is the install? I'll be getting one of these for sure.
Dave
Dave
jwwiii
Viper Owner
Ron;
I purchased the very first MGW "round knob" for the SRT from MGW. It was a nice improvement. I recently ordered and installed the "pistol Grip" Race knob from MGW, and I find it FAR SUPERIOR to me in making accurate, easy shifts.
I vote for the "Pistol Grip", because I own both for my SRT!
Jim
I purchased the very first MGW "round knob" for the SRT from MGW. It was a nice improvement. I recently ordered and installed the "pistol Grip" Race knob from MGW, and I find it FAR SUPERIOR to me in making accurate, easy shifts.
I vote for the "Pistol Grip", because I own both for my SRT!
Jim
Hans Christian
Enthusiast
Jim,
by "pistol grip" I presume you mean the "first strike" knob ?
by "pistol grip" I presume you mean the "first strike" knob ?
Daffy Duck Viper
Enthusiast
From all I've read, the "pistol grip" term refers to the First Strike Racing Knob. The only other knob is the Snake Gripper Shift Knob, and that is in no way a pistol grip knob. 
You must be registered for see images
You must be registered for see images
You must be registered for see images
Hans Christian
Enthusiast
Thanks Daffy - thought so - Just wanted to be sure before I order mine. I am just waiting for Bill P to tell me my 2004 VIN# - hehe
RogerL
Enthusiast
How do I find the "How To" thread/insturctions? Have a "gripper" to install. Thanks.
Y2K5SRT
Enthusiast
You should have instructions that were included with the knob itself. Failing that, here is what I did for my First Strike knob on the SRT-10 (different than a Gen I/II):
1. Remove the aluminum bezel from around the shift boot using the proper allen wrench. Note the position of the bezel and boot, as it has to go on in the EXACT same position or it will not go back on. Looks simple enough, but if you notice there are two pegs on the bottom (different sizes) that dictate the direction of the bezel. Also note that the shift boot will probably turn a little bit as you pull it up, so make sure to realign those holes as well to fit the proper pegs, etc.
2. Pull up the shift boot so that you can clearly see the shaft of the stick shift. You will see that the stock knob is held on by screwing it down on the threaded shaft against a "counter-nut". The stock knob has flat sides on the botton so that you can get a wrench on it.
3. Get two wrenches and place one on the nut and the other on the stock shift knob. Turn each the opposite direction. I am pretty sure you want to go counter-clockwise with the knob and clockwise with the nut. It should "break loose" fairly easily. Once loose, simply unscrew the stock shift knob off the threaded shaft. Then remove the counter-nut as well, as MGW doesn't use it on their SRT knobs (at least not for the First Strike knob).
4. Screw on your new MGW knob. Screw it down to where you feel it is comfortable. While everybody seems to prefer a short throw, you may not want it TOO low. Once you find the "sweet spot", take the tiny allen wrench (provided) and tighten down the set screw on the back of the knob's shaft. NOTE: You don't want to strip that screw or break your allen wrench, but do tighten it very well. Mine came loose on me twice (which I have found is an anomoly) and I finally turned green, bulked up to 12 times my normal size, and screwed it down TIGHT. Never had a problem since. Although the green tint seems to put some people off.
5. Store the stock knob and counter-nut where you can find them in case you ever sell your car and want to keep the MGW knob (and who doesn't?). Put the boot back down and reinstall the bezel. You will find the bezel still probably turned on you, so be patient and play it like a puzzle. Don't forget that the boot also needs to line up correctly.
One final note: George at MGW e-mailed me after he saw the picture of my installed knob (above). He said that he designed the lower part of the knob (with a set screw instead of flat sides) so that it could rest on top off the boot and look perfect. I didn't know this, so did the ol' Hulk routine and managed to get the boot over the bottom part of the new knob. It was too much work to reverse, so that is how mine sits. I kinda like it.
Good luck with your new shift knob. You will love it!
Chris
1. Remove the aluminum bezel from around the shift boot using the proper allen wrench. Note the position of the bezel and boot, as it has to go on in the EXACT same position or it will not go back on. Looks simple enough, but if you notice there are two pegs on the bottom (different sizes) that dictate the direction of the bezel. Also note that the shift boot will probably turn a little bit as you pull it up, so make sure to realign those holes as well to fit the proper pegs, etc.
2. Pull up the shift boot so that you can clearly see the shaft of the stick shift. You will see that the stock knob is held on by screwing it down on the threaded shaft against a "counter-nut". The stock knob has flat sides on the botton so that you can get a wrench on it.
3. Get two wrenches and place one on the nut and the other on the stock shift knob. Turn each the opposite direction. I am pretty sure you want to go counter-clockwise with the knob and clockwise with the nut. It should "break loose" fairly easily. Once loose, simply unscrew the stock shift knob off the threaded shaft. Then remove the counter-nut as well, as MGW doesn't use it on their SRT knobs (at least not for the First Strike knob).
4. Screw on your new MGW knob. Screw it down to where you feel it is comfortable. While everybody seems to prefer a short throw, you may not want it TOO low. Once you find the "sweet spot", take the tiny allen wrench (provided) and tighten down the set screw on the back of the knob's shaft. NOTE: You don't want to strip that screw or break your allen wrench, but do tighten it very well. Mine came loose on me twice (which I have found is an anomoly) and I finally turned green, bulked up to 12 times my normal size, and screwed it down TIGHT. Never had a problem since. Although the green tint seems to put some people off.
5. Store the stock knob and counter-nut where you can find them in case you ever sell your car and want to keep the MGW knob (and who doesn't?). Put the boot back down and reinstall the bezel. You will find the bezel still probably turned on you, so be patient and play it like a puzzle. Don't forget that the boot also needs to line up correctly.
One final note: George at MGW e-mailed me after he saw the picture of my installed knob (above). He said that he designed the lower part of the knob (with a set screw instead of flat sides) so that it could rest on top off the boot and look perfect. I didn't know this, so did the ol' Hulk routine and managed to get the boot over the bottom part of the new knob. It was too much work to reverse, so that is how mine sits. I kinda like it.
Good luck with your new shift knob. You will love it!
Chris
RogerL
Enthusiast
Thanks Chris. Should have the shift knob today or tomorrow. Will put the knob on along with a 2-3 shift eliminator kit on this week. The shifter has been the only issue I have had with my SRT-10. Everything else works perfectly, AC, radio, handling, performance and the fit and finish is good. Just do not have any complaints. Thanks again.
Viperzilla
Enthusiast
The SRTs now have a 2-3 skip shift?!? I think you mean 1-4, please clarify for me. Thanks, no flame int.
MGWLTD
Enthusiast
GREAT WRITE UP CHRIS!!!!
as a matter of fact i tried pulling the boot over my knob as well and i like it better that way also!!!!
i may redesign the shafts on future knobs to make it easier to pull it up and over also
regards
george
as a matter of fact i tried pulling the boot over my knob as well and i like it better that way also!!!!
i may redesign the shafts on future knobs to make it easier to pull it up and over also
regards
george
SRTRICK
Enthusiast
FWIW - I found that I did not have to remove the shift boot ring to change the knob. I just wrapped a large towel around the stick and was careful to be sure the ring was not exposed anywhere as I went along. I saved that step and the ring is none the worse for wear.
I didn't try to pull the boot over the shaft as I was worried about damaging it, but would prefer the boot higher than it is, so the re-design is probably a good idea. How about a nice shiny carbon fibre round knob to go with the new shaft design & then I can justify ordering another knob.
I didn't try to pull the boot over the shaft as I was worried about damaging it, but would prefer the boot higher than it is, so the re-design is probably a good idea. How about a nice shiny carbon fibre round knob to go with the new shaft design & then I can justify ordering another knob.
RogerL
Enthusiast
You are correct, just a different way of saying the smae thing. Northwind has a great little fix for the problem, 60 bucks.
