Installing an aftermarket shifter is not difficult. Briefly stated here is the procedure (from memory so please forgive any inadvertent omissions):
1. Remove the chrome ring around shifter.
2. Lift up the first rubber boot around the shifter shaft and disconnect the shaft, setting it to one side.
3. Unscrew the two screws at the back of the console. The seat backs must be tilted forward to allow access to these screws.
4. Work the console loose from the clips that hold it in place.
5. Once loose, disconnect the cigarette lighter electrical connection, the two electrical window connections (each should be marked as being “Left” and “Right”), and the connection to the auxiliary power plug inside the console compartment.
6. Having previously chocked the wheels to prevent the car’s rolling, work the boot around the hand brake up the shaft and remove the console. The hand brake must be at least partially released to accomplish this task. I don’t believe that the console lid must be removed.
7. Using a cobalt drill (available at Home Depot) drill-out the rivets holding the 2nd rubber boot. Don’t waste your time with regular drill bits as the rivets are hardened.
8. Vacuum up the drilling debris to avoid getting anything in the transmission.
9. Cut the plastic tie around the top of the shifter mechanism and remove the boot, placing it to one side for reuse.
10. Here is the most difficult part. Most instructions say to drill two access holes in the transmission tunnel to allow access to the bolts on the right side to the transmission. This is a real pain and I chose to simply cut the metal over the transmission by making two lateral cuts about 6” long at the front and rear of the existing access hole. A small jig saw with a metal cutting blade was used, tilted to about 45 degrees to avoid damage below the cuts. The resulting metal “flap” was then bent to the right to allow access to the transmission.
11. The new shifter was installed per factory instructions and the metal flap bent back to its original location.
12. The car was driven to assure that the installation was satisfactory.
13. A gasket made of multiple layers of aluminum foil and RTV was placed over the metal flap and the cuts to help seal-out water, heat, and fumes.
14. The removal steps were reversed and the car put back together. The B&M Shifter had self-threading screws included to replace the removed rivets.
15. One last suggestion, take a look at the B&M Shifter as a possible alternative to a Hurst. It is an excellent shifter as the postings here on the VCA Website attest and it allows the use of the factory shaft and knob, making the installation invisible.
Good Luck –
Lynn
Notice: This procedure is provided without warranty of any kind. Neither the editor, authors, nor the VCA assume any liability for any damage that may result from the performance of these procedures. Use of any information found here is definitely at your own risk!
