Neat Lift! Anyone have any experience?

Dom426h

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one of the Big benifits of the other style(2-post/4-post) lifts is that you can stack cars. (one on the lift, one under)

i guess the smaller footprint could be beneficial but i'd prefer to squeeze in a bigger one to take advantage of the stacking.
 
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Venomiss

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Atlas 7700 FRLX Full Rise Scissor Lift - Greg Smith Equipment Sales, Inc

Saw this and thought...man, that is an affordable solution for a guy with a low ceiling and limited garage floor space. Anyone have any insight into this? How much would shipping on something like this run I wonder?

Thanks,

Ryan

Looks like they have a number to call for a shipping quote and what the lift looks like shipped also. It's in the shipping policy way down the page on the right.
 

GTSnake

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I thought about that before. I just don't know if I have enough room for that control box. it would be even better if the lift could be recessed into the floor so it's flush when lowered. Otherwise I wouldn't want to drive over that thing every time I pull into the garage. If the ramps aren't long enough you will scrape every time you roll over it.
 
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HLN A55

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For that price, I would just go for a regular 4 post lift. Or, save your money and get a cheaper, regular scissor lift. I wonder if we can get a discount for ordering two at the same time?!
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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Guys, he's talking about limited space where a two or four post is not an option.

The Atlas 7700 FRLX full rise scissor lift operates from a flush floor position, so that when not in use, a vehicle may drive over or be parked over the lift. The lift is not portable. The lift must be anchored to a concrete floor with a minimum thickness of four inches.

It's kinda pricey but might be the best option for me. I have a two-car garage and I would want it centered. So I'd have to drive my Vipers on some 2x10s between the lift runners and on the outsides to split the lift between the two cars when not in use. I think it's doable.
 

Ron

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I have a double scissor lift as it was the only option my floor could handle (4" thick, 2,500psi concrete with many expansion joints). Not only was the concrete insufficient for a 2 post, the garage bay wasn't wide enough to avoid constant door dings. I also wanted a native wheels free lift, which eliminated a 4 post even if I could fit it. Double car storage wasn't an issue for me.

I purchased a German made unit called Nussbaum. Have had it for 6 years, very well made and trouble free. 4" when down, 78" fully up, 7,000lbs capacity. I bought it with the ramp extenders so there is no issue with the spoiler on drive over. Several car dealers in the area have installed this lift throughout their shops.

Best tool I ever bought. Unfortunately, the weak dollar has made it quite expensive.

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Kevan

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The only downside to the scissor lifts is that you unload the suspension when lifting it up.
Suspension finish work (torquing) reverts to crawling under the vehicle after it's lowered and the suspension is loaded again.

My friends father just bought a Backyard Buddy with all the accessories. I'm not sure how hot I am about a free-standing 4-post lift, but it's supposed to be very nice.
If you see one in our new garage, that means I liked it. :)
 
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RTED

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:headbang:If you or a friend is a COSTCO member, check out the price they have on a 4-post lift. If I recall correctly, it was around $1,600
 

zracer196

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I will be getting the Costco one! Great find.

I am building a new house that has 12' ceilings in the garage...Plenty of room!
 

Qualitywires.com

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I have the Bendpak smaller scissor lift under my four post lift. I love it for the quick things that need to be done and don't have to pull the top car off.
 

NOTV8

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Been thinking of what Costco sell but I think I'm going with Greg Smith four post lift (aside from Rotary which is my other choice). I heard some says it is well made. The 9000 lbs. is also good for my truck. Just have to wait 'till the house is done by the end of the month. I went with 13ft. 3 inches ceiling height with 6 inches of concrete floor which is the maximum the builder can do.
 
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got one

got one

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That's the one I have under my lift.

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Interesting idea...would also allow for you to lift your car off your lift vs. some of these other approaches i see. Either way, the scissor jack, looks like it is the way to go for someone with limited floor space and hight restrictions....unless anyone out there has something better?
 

FATHERFORD

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That's the one I have under my lift.

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Whats the purpose though? Just to easily get the tires off the ground?

I like the first one mentioned so far. Although expensive, and nowhere near as good as a good asymmetrical 2 post lift, it will work in low ceiling garages enough so that people can get under their car and work on it.
 

dave6666

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Whats the purpose though? Just to easily get the tires off the ground?

Then maybe followed by:

-> Change clutch
-> Change oil
-> Change rear end
-> Service driveline
-> Change tranny oil
-> Service brakes
-> Inspect underbody
-> Clean underbody
-> Brake work

So limited with one of those lifts it looks like.

:eater:
 

GTSnake

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Ok, I have a question to throw out there. If I want to flush mount it I'll have to cut out the concrete with the correct foot print but how thick should the slab be under the lift? Assuming the original slab was 4" thick and the lift was 4" do I go down 8" total?

I know, I know I can add but would it be better to have a thicker slab under the lift?
 

dave6666

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Ok, I have a question to throw out there. If I want to flush mount it I'll have to cut out the concrete with the correct foot print but how thick should the slab be under the lift? Assuming the original slab was 4" thick and the lift was 4" do I go down 8" total?

I would go at least 8" additional around the entire pit perimeter and dowel in rebar so that your existing slab ties into the new lower pits for the lift. Depending on your soil type you'll want at least 2" of sand below the new concrete.

This is kind of an approximation of how I would do it:

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Chuck 98 RT/10

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The only downside to the scissor lifts is that you unload the suspension when lifting it up.
Suspension finish work (torquing) reverts to crawling under the vehicle after it's lowered and the suspension is loaded again.

But I don't see why the runners couldn't be modified or attachments made to pick the car up from the wheels instead of the frame?
 

Andrew2KRT10

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From my experience, if you can fit the car in the garage, you can fit the 4 post lift. I installed a B-pack and that thing fits like a finger in an a**hole. I wouldn't change it for anything.

AC
 

Kevan

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Then maybe followed by:

-> Change clutch
-> Change oil
-> Change rear end
-> Service driveline
-> Change tranny oil
-> Service brakes
-> Inspect underbody
-> Clean underbody
-> Brake work

So limited with one of those lifts it looks like.

:eater:
Sorry Dave, but I"m tired of rollin' around on the cold (even in the summer) garage floor.

Obscure Tech Tip: There is no way in hell you will be able to correctly torque the front caliper attachment bolts (250 ft.lbs.) without having full vertical use of your body. Poundstone excluded.
 

dave6666

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From my experience, if you can fit the car in the garage, you can fit the 4 post lift. I installed a B-pack and that thing fits like a finger in an a**hole. I wouldn't change it for anything.

AC

I agree, but I like the thought of being able to empty my garage. The recessed scissor lifts are like not there when down, and everything else in my garage either has wheels or is light enough to move easily.

And keep your finger out of your butt. That's gross.
 
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got one

got one

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I agree, but I like the thought of being able to empty my garage. The recessed scissor lifts are like not there when down, and everything else in my garage either has wheels or is light enough to move easily.

And keep your finger out of your butt. That's gross.

lol :eater:
 

GTSnake

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Hmmm, now all I have to do is find a concrete contractor to give me some quotes...
 

TexasPettey

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One thing to keep in mind is how you access the car once it is up. I don't think you'll like the car on the lift without access from the sides. In the scissor lift, you have to get at it from front or back. Also, if there are cross beams in between, you will have a hard time with a creeper underneath. If you have a 20' deep garage with a workbench along the house wall, you may not have enough room for the scissor to work well. It doesn't go up straight, if I understand them correctly. You'll need to watch front & back clearance so that you can still lower the garage door with the car up and still get in front of the car with the garage up.

All in all, I'd suggest that you'd be happier with a smaller 4 post lift. You'll probably also spend less total $, since 4 posts are very common. There are easy & cheap ways to get the car 4 wheels off on a 4 post. It takes me less than 5min to get the car 4 wheels off with my 4 post.
 

TexasPettey

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I agree, but I like the thought of being able to empty my garage. The recessed scissor lifts are like not there when down, and everything else in my garage either has wheels or is light enough to move easily.

My 4 post has casters that allow it to be fully moved when set. In theory, this could be done with a car on it. I'm not sure I'd try it, unless I was desperate.
 

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