need advice pulling engine

Vic

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Finally putting my Stryker Heads and cam on

I know its been a long time since the group buy, but I've had a lot of projects for work, and barely time to wipe my ****

When pulling the engine upward, the lower radiator hose barb on the water pump hits the aluminum cross-brace, just in front of the engine. I know I can pull the water pump first to provide clearance, but is there any other way? It looks easier to get to the water pump bolts with the engine raised, but if I have to, ok, I'll pull it first.

ever "been there, done that"?
 

Apex

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I'd remove the cross member. Just 2 bolts on each side and 1 underneath. I also had to zip off 2 little rivets that are in the way but it makes life much easier especially when reinstalling the engine.
 

1TONY1

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Are you only doing heads/cam ? You don't have to pull the engine for that...lots of extra work.
But yes, remove the aluminum brace. Setting the car on a single jack stand or floor jack on the frame (side to side piece) under the aluminum brace seems to help on removal of the aluminum piece too.
 

Apex

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Setting the car on a single jack stand or floor jack on the frame (side to side piece) under the aluminum brace seems to help on removal of the aluminum piece too.

That would work as well but I just used a mini sledge and gave it some love taps, being careful not to hit the wiring loom running underneath the cross member.
 

BOTTLEFED

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Yes, remove the cross brace
when you go to put the engine back in you'll need the extra space in front to line up the input shaft and clutch splines

Tony is right, jack up the car at the cross frame under the brace and it will be easier to get out

also don't forget to unbolt the p/s cooler from the brace before you pull it out
 
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Vic

Vic

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Wow, lots of great info! Thanks, everybody.

now I'll go do it some other way. (heh heh, just kidding) :D



Tony, do you think its easier to remove the radiator, to get the cam out? Since I was doing the motor/tranny mounts, too, I thought I'd just yank the whole thing.
 

1TONY1

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Wow, lots of great info! Thanks, everybody.

now I'll go do it some other way. (heh heh, just kidding) :D



Tony, do you think its easier to remove the radiator, to get the cam out? Since I was doing the motor/tranny mounts, too, I thought I'd just yank the whole thing.

I think it's easier that way. Others may have different opinions but I think it's less work. You may also need to slightly pull the a/c condenser forward.
Another thing I have done is make a cam removal/install tool. Weld a bolt (that screws in the cam) on one end of a piece of rebar/round stock about 10" long, weld a nut on the other end, do another one or two pieces so you end up with an adjustable length that screws/unscrews like a pool cue. That cam is long and this will make it a lot easier to handle. If the condenser wasn't in the way a one piece tool would work but since space is limited the tool needs to be different lengths. Of course making different length tools would work too. The tool is handy with the engine in or out of the car.
 
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Vic

Vic

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Oh, I gotcha, like a cam "extension", so you can manuever it precisely, and with leverage. Great idea. You done this once or twice? :)

Maybe some stainless all-thread rod, along with "coupling nuts" from Home Depot would be helpful
 

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