New Dyno #s

BOTTLEFED

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Now that my motor is running strong and everything is all better I decided to take it to my local dyno. I have spent that last week tuning and I was confident it was ready and safe.
The dyno is a newer Mustang dyno at the college I got my auto tech degree with.
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MAX POWER: 577 @5473rpm
MAX TORQUE: 577 @3425rpm


(the sheet only shows 572 but for some reason it cut off the full run on the graph)
 

99 R/T 10

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Nice Tim! For a 5 lbs pulley, that is strong. If you want to go a little farther to the edge, you could add water/**** and use a 6.5 lbs pulley and probably put it over the 600 mark.
 
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BOTTLEFED

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They also wanted me to try out the 1/4 feature on the dyno.
I haven't done an actual 1/4mi run with the Roe so I can't say if it is completely accurate. I know I got a lot more traction than I can get on the street on my launch.

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BOTTLEFED

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Nice Tim! For a 5 lbs pulley, that is strong. If you want to go a little farther to the edge, you could add water/**** and use a 6.5 lbs pulley and probably put it over the 600 mark.
I think W/M is coming this winter but I'll probably stay with the 5# until I can get a forged motor in it. I still think I can get over 600 with the W/M if I get it tuned right :smirk:
 

RTTTTed

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Way to go. Idaho? Got snow yet? Our mountains are loaded up and all white.

Ted
 
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BOTTLEFED

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good news tim. and that 1/4 mile feature is neat. wonder how close it is
they said a ZO6 just ran it at 13.3
the same car ran a 13.2 at a little lower elevation on the drag strip

I just felt I got better traction than I can get in a real-world situation so I think the mph would be close but my ET would be a few tenths slower

just FYI, we are at about 4500ft
 
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BOTTLEFED

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How does she do on the street with the 3.55's?
It drives and rides fine with the lower gearing but with over 500tq at any rpm it can be difficult to take off quickly without frying the tires.
I have the stock 3.07s and would like to trade them out someday just to see the difference.
 

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Have you thought about putting in a Quaife or a Tru Trac differential?
 
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BOTTLEFED

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no, I don't think I'm pushing enough torque to break the diff and I'm just on stock michelin tires
and I don't go to the strip that often
 

RTTTTed

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What breaks the diffs and axles is the wheel hop. Axles bust first. Fuel and brake lines are within reach of broken axles as well as control arms and shock systems are vulnerable.

I've got Unitrax axles and axleshaft loops. I recommend them to everyone that has enough power to break expensive stuff, first. I run a stock clutch because I run street tires. Might be changing that next year.

Ted
 
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BOTTLEFED

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Ted
are you running w/m to get 720hp? what psi is your pulley?
I would like to get some half shafts when I start running n2o but that is after a new motor.
And like I said before, I don't drag it a lot and I never do hard launches.
 

RTTTTed

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698rwhp without water/****. I've got 9-1 Ross pistons, crankcase vac. pump, 1.7 rockers, cam, TBs, Macedo airbox, headers, cat delete, fuel pump, 10# Roe, MSD, etc. Also have a NEW/never used (yet) Nitrous System installed on engine.

Aug I changed headgaskets and ported my heads ... well they were off and I couldn't help myself. I like porting heads (sort of) and definitely enjoy the huge increases of power gained.

I'm at the point where tranny and differential may bust (with slicks) and Nitrous will maximize the power output the engine can withstand.

Ted
 

RTTTTed

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Last year I bought a 98 GTS with a Roe sc. 600rwhp/644rwtq with MSD bat, water/****, 3" Hiflow Roe cats and Random tech Catback. It was an amazing car and very fast. Then I bought this car and 600rwhp is sort of half throttle performance now.

My 98GTS had no traction until after 100mph unless the runcraps were heated up first. My 01 had PS1s and went 10.5@139mph. I've upgraded to PS2s, but am currently working out a tuning problem.

Ted
 
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BOTTLEFED

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698rwhp without water/****. I've got 9-1 Ross pistons, crankcase vac. pump, 1.7 rockers, cam, TBs, Macedo airbox, headers, cat delete, fuel pump, 10# Roe, MSD, etc. Also have a NEW/never used (yet) Nitrous System installed on engine.

Aug I changed headgaskets and ported my heads ... well they were off and I couldn't help myself. I like porting heads (sort of) and definitely enjoy the huge increases of power gained.

I'm at the point where tranny and differential may bust (with slicks) and Nitrous will maximize the power output the engine can withstand.

Ted
Very nice setup
Its close to what I'd like to have someday. I'll get my engine built to about the same specs as yours.

I also have a nitrous system hooked up that I can't use since I'm on cast pistons now.
My goal now is to have a nice strong motor setup on 7 or 8 psi at about 650rwhp. Then have my n2o on a 150 shot for the drag strip only, to pull those 10sec runs :drive:
 

RTTTTed

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You don't need Nitrous to go 10s unless you run street tires. Run dradials and 10s shouldn't be difficult at all. Since you own a Roe you knwo what I'm saying when I say it has full power at idle. Your problem is to hook it to the ground.

As everyone knows ET is all about hp produced to push that weight car down the at a specified Elapased Time, or what's commonly known as average hp. Usually that would be about half the peak hp. With the Roe it takes a lot less hp to go fast. It takes more traction and the Unitrax halfshafts though. I'd leave the Nitrous for that once (or twice) in a lifetime race (money, vette, or TT) as Nitrous added to the sc is quite a load for the engine. I wouldn't build a car to run Nitrous unless it was a slower car and I needed it to be fast. One of my neighbors has a 5.0 Mustang that runs mid 13's, but he runs Nitrous noramlly which puts his Mustang into the 11s. My Duster will go 10s on Nitrous. On my cars the Nitrous is a "just in case" power adder.

I think that the Nitrous would be something I'd use at the standing mile. I could probably use the hp at the top end!

Ted
 

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