Oil change?

SNAKE BITE

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How are all of you who do not have a lift doing your oil changes?
Put the car on ramps, jack stands, etc???

The ramps I have are too steep, does anyone know of ramps that will work with the viper. If not I could always make some out of 2x12's I guess.
 

Copernicus

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There are ramps that will work with the Viper, but you will not like the price tag. $200 and up for RaceRamps I believe they are called. You can modify existing ramps with extensions or go the build your own as you mentioned.

I just lifted the four corners and placed padded jack stands underneath to do mine.
 

-FROG-

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First, I yank the E-Brake nice and hard, then chock the rear tires. My car is lowered, so I turn my steering wheel all the way and use a small jack on one of the front control arms, to lift the car up high enough to get my normal floor jack under the front middle. Then I raise the car carefully, not banging the front bumper with the jack handle and scoot the small jack out of the way. I then place jack stands under the front frame in a STABLE position and lower the car slowly onto the stands.

When jacking the car up, there are a few things to look out for:

If your hood is up, make sure it doesn't hit the ceiling of your garage or the garage door. It can get kinda high and if you aren't paying attention oyu may hit something up yonder....

Make sure you don't jack the car up too high you crush the rear bumper on the ground or on one of the wheel chocks.

You should have enough room to crawl around under there and have fun trying to figure out how to get the oil filter removal tool in there, lol! It is doable though, just work at it.

Good Luck -FROG-
 

Andrew2KRT10

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Run the car up on (2) 2x12's. One, then both. THat should get the car high enough to get a jack under and go to work. Oil filter wrench not a problem, just a little tight
 

RoadiJeff

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I bought a low profile jack from Harbor Freight. The cost was about the same as what most others seem to be paying to have the dealer change their oil. I lift the entire car and support it with four jack stands so I can get under there and inspect everything. Plans are in the works for a 4-post Revolution lift but for now the jack thing works for me.

Here's the one I have: Harbor Freight Low Profile Racing Jack
 

Brian 95 RT

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Local oil change place charges me $15 - I bring my own oil and filter. Oil from Walmart, and filter from Autozone - couldn't be any easier!
 
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SNAKE BITE

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read the post I linked, it has everything in it you need. pretty basic stuff.

Just read the link and have a couple questions.
1. Someone mentioned needing to have the car on jackstands so the wheels/suspension are free/sagging down in order to get the filter out?

2. When draining the oil is it best to have all four wheels on ramps so the car is level, or doesn't it matter?
 

Steve-Indy

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Andy, I believe that it was Chad that mentioned having the wheels "dangle" in order to remove the oil filter on his 96 RT/10 (a "Gen 1.5" car).

I have also had this problem on the last couple of oil changes on our 96 "McViper" as well...likely due to a chronic "creep" of the engine "upward" in the right engine mount...as this occured only lately, and I have been changing it's oil for years. Formerly, after draining the pan and then the filter ( I also punch multiple holes in the filter AFTER I place a large sheet of aluminum foil under, around, and nearly over the filter to channel this mess into a drain pan rather than all over the suspension..finally placing a ziploc bag over the filter as I disconnect it)...then I USED to pass the filter rearward along the engine where it could then be removed. As noted, with "torque-over-time" the engine has shifted ever so slightly up and to the right which narrows the space between the motor and the frame, so that on the 96 Viper I must pass the filter out to the right through the A-arm area.

This has NOT occurred on our 95 Viper which has TWICE the miles as the 96...noting that I can still pass the 95's filter rearward on downward to get it out easily.

Sorry that I seem to be rambling, but this MAY help you avoid a large mess and considerable frustration.
 

Catwood

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1 no
2 yes

FWIW, I have done mine on ramps but jacked up the back of the car once the oil started draing. I now put it up on 4 jack stand because along with an oil change I'm typically doing alot of other stuff for a track day.

the hardest part if figuring out what to do with all the old oil.

I think I have close to 30 gallons sitting around..could be more. I need an old ****** again to recycle it. Mobil 1 with 200 miles on it is tough to dump.



Carl
 

Mopar Steve

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I think I have close to 30 gallons sitting around..could be more. I need an old ****** again to recycle it. Mobil 1 with 200 miles on it is tough to dump.

Why are you changing oil with only 200 miles on it?
 

snampro

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I don't have a problem with the filter, the wheels can be on the ramps or in the air, like Steve said, I think this is a '96 issue.
 

FE 065

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I jack both sides up (front) with 2 long handled hydraulic jacks, then place ramps under the tires for safety, letting the car down a bit onto the ramps. - Since I have the ramps anyway.

Having the second jack is much easier than trying line up the car and drive it up the 2x12's like I used to do. Just lever it up and it's done!

Also be careful when raising the front only with the hood open, because the raised angle will often have the hood come slamming downwards :eek:


Many quick oil change places will take your do it yourself drain oil for free..
 

Catwood

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I think I have close to 30 gallons sitting around..could be more. I need an old ****** again to recycle it. Mobil 1 with 200 miles on it is tough to dump.

Why are you changing oil with only 200 miles on it?



Track days. (HPDE)
 
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