Oil Puke can setup?

[firstcolonial]

Okay have read every thread on this for a couple of hours (would have been nice to see Damn Yankees Pics..I researched that topic too..hope it gets rectified. My questions:

1. Am I correct that the system should be a dead end and NOT ran back thru the airbox?

2. Is it better to run each valve cover separate or just use the T'd line?

3. Does the tank need to be vented at all (on my vette i just used a small clear compressor dryer it worked fine)?

Thanks for all the valuable posts on all subject on this site!

 

[1TONY1]

Okay have read every thread on this for a couple of hours (would have been nice to see Damn Yankees Pics..I researched that topic too..hope it gets rectified. My questions:

1. Am I correct that the system should be a dead end and NOT ran back thru the airbox?

Either way....some would go into a tank with a breather on top, some into a tank and then back into the airbox. Depends on if you get smell and how concerned you are with oil mist getting back into the engine. Into a tank and then to the air box probably isn't bad on a lot of set-ups. If I get smell problems again on my set-up, then I will build a shroud around the breather cap and run a hose to intake air.

2. Is it better to run each valve cover separate or just use the T'd line?

Depends on how much crankcase pressure you expect. Stock or heads/cam the tee should work. Forced induction or nitrous and you might want seperate lines. Also, the health of the engine...how much blow-by.


3. Does the tank need to be vented at all (on my vette i just used a small clear compressor dryer it worked fine)?

The tank MUST be vented somehow, other wise you might as well cap it off at the valve covers.

Thanks for all the valuable posts on all subject on this site!

On the Roe set-up, a lot of times I will use this and run a hose back to the pass side of the breather box and then tell the customer if they are going to the track to remove the hose and put the little breather back on. When you run it to the pass side of the air box, use the ****** for the IAC and put a small filter directly on the IAC. Roe Racing Crankcase Breather Assembly - All Vipers - Ventilation - Crankshaft and Power Steering - Roe Racing

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On my car, I use this tank with two lines. Mounted behind the radiator there isn't any smell. There are two fitting sizes.
JEGS 52200

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[Kevan]

For AN fittings on the valve covers:
DIY: -AN fittings & braided lines for CCV on Gen.3 Viper Engine - .:SRTConnection:.
(also shows a non-returning catch can setup)

 

[1TONY1]

For AN fittings on the valve covers:
DIY: -AN fittings & braided lines for CCV on Gen.3 Viper Engine - .:SRTConnection:.
(also shows a non-returning catch can setup)

If you have to have a sight glass on your puke tank, you have waaaaaaaaaaaay to much blow-by

Just joking...good job !!!

The bigger the hose, the better. That Jegs tank can be had with #10 or #12
I think I used #10 and wish I had went with #12. I also used the threaded part of oil fill caps to connect my hoses....didn't want to put holes in my new gen3 valve covers at that time. Yes, it's the same engine

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[martyb]

I bought a Moroso vented tank, ran -12 fittings, 3/4" hose into a T, then into the puke can. I have a 10# Roe/Heads/Cam, and the new system is working perfectly. My total cost was about $200 for everything.

martyb

 

[Kevan]

If you have to have a sight glass on your puke tank, you have waaaaaaaaaaaay to much blow-by

I didn't design that tank.

Just joking...good job !!!

Thanks!

 

[firstcolonial]

Thanks for the input...I believe I read that putting it back into the airbox is bad for octane and intake. I was wondering what most people do?

And is the odor that prevalent? if you dead end it?

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

I got the Vipers by Joe(?) catch can because it's the smallest one I could find but I still wish it was a little smaller. I ordered it with no view tube.

It is mounted on the driver's side using the bolt holes where the windshield washer reservior was. Vipers don't need a windshield washer anyway.

I use rubber hose from the passenger side valve cover, T at the driver side valve cover and then into the can. Steel braided looks great and is durable but I didn't want it wearing away at the smooth tubes or anything else it might rest against. Steel braided also adds weight.

I plugged the airbox opening.

 

[GR8_ASP]

I have mine installed in line between the PCV valve and the intake manifold. I do not have anything on the make-up air side (the side going to the airbox). I understand that there are differences in the years (PCV valve vs fixed orifice, etc), but PCV operation is similar. I would never vent the vacuum side (between the orifice/valve and the intake) as venting eliminates the active removal of crankcase gases, which is the whole purpose to begin with. Venting the make-up side is fine.

Having a catch bottle that actually works is key. Some of the catch bottles sold only have a tube in and out and no active catch system (under high vacuum periods (closed throttle decels) they cannot work due to the high flow rates)

 

[ViperGeorge]

If you put catch cans on that are not connected back to the airbox do you need to disconnect the rest of the crankcase ventilation system?

 

[Kevan]

Steel braided looks great and is durable but I didn't want it wearing away at the smooth tubes or anything else it might rest against. Steel braided also adds weight.

Good call.
That's why I went with nylon braided lines. In a low pressure setup like this (under 250 psi), nylon braid works great.
70% less weight, and no abrasion on other components.

 

[TexasPettey]

Okay have read every thread on this for a couple of hours (would have been nice to see Damn Yankees Pics..I researched that topic too..hope it gets rectified. My questions:

1. Am I correct that the system should be a dead end and NOT ran back thru the airbox?

2. Is it better to run each valve cover separate or just use the T'd line?

3. Does the tank need to be vented at all (on my vette i just used a small clear compressor dryer it worked fine)?

Thanks for all the valuable posts on all subject on this site!

1) I run mine into the catch can, then through a small/generic breather filter element, then back into the airbox. I can always disconnect the line from the airbox, but I wanted to have some vacume pulling from the valve covers during normal driving.

2) I run from the valve covers. I've got a Gen1 and my T line is between the intake manifold sides. It wouldn't work. Also, it's a very small diameter line. I have steel braided lines that are pretty long and they are zip tied them to the cross member underneath the smooth tubes. No contact and no rubbing.

3) I may have misinterpreted your question. You'll need some sort of pressure release area, venting, airbox piping, etc. or else the pressure will build up in the can and stop venting from the valve covers.

 

[firstcolonial]

I appreciate all advice..I think I will take the lines in to the puke take (vented at tank) and dead end there. Besides a little vacuum I believe that by hooking it back up to the airbox would only give the engine a "chance" to ingest more dangerous gasses etc. Am I wrong with my logic?

 

[ViperTony]

So nobody runs a line from the PCV on top of the block to the catch can? BigBrakeDave's catch-can kit catches both valve covers and the PCV valve. Is there an ill-effect from venting that PCV connection that goes into the intake manifold?

 

[GR8_ASP]

The line going into th eintake manifolde is a vacuum line. Venting it is the same as a vacuum leak.

My Gen III has never had oil pullover on the make-up air side (when you get oil residue in the air cleaner). It has had oil use through the PCV vacuum side, which is where I installed a catch can. Note I installed it on the crankcase side of the PCV valve so the catch can was not subject to high vacuum differential (when the PCV valve limits flow) or pressure (when under boost) as the PCV valve includes a check valve for pressure. I installed mine in line with no vent. I like/want the PCV to function normally and evacuate crankcase vapors.

 

[firstcolonial]

GR8..when you say inline do you mean that your outflow is connected back to the airbox?

 

[GR8_ASP]

No, it is connected to the PCV valve which is connected to the intake manifold. Note Gen II do not have the PCV valve - it has a built in orifice. I will try and post a pic a bit later.

 

[firstcolonial]

Thanks for the Pic..The Gen 2 has a CCV which performs the same function as a PCV. It says in my manual that the CCV meters the amt of crankcase vapors drawn out of the engine...when the eng. is running, fresh air enters the engine and mixes with the crankcase vapors. Manifold vacuum draws the vapor/air mixture thru the CCV and into the intake...the vapors are then consumed during engine combustion.

This is how I applied my logic of not returning the "waste produce" I catch in the can back into the airbox...then again my logic has been wrong plenty of times

 

[ViperTony]

On the GenII I'm referring the CCV (orifice?) on top if the block that tees into the intake manifold. Dave's kit blocks off the CCV line coming from orifice and connects it to the lines running to the catch can. Here's a pic: Engine Breather System 1996-2002 Vipers per Dave: "you also need to catch the oil out of the lifter valley thru the pcv valve before it enters the intake. "

 

[GR8_ASP]

Yes, the CCV is the orifice I indicated, which is the equivalent part to the PCV valve (which has a variable orifice based on vacuum level).

If the kit indicated blocks the port into the intake manifiold, it is then in essence making the crankcase an open/vented crankcase. Similar to pre PCV vehicles (something like 1962 and earlier). The lack of positive crankcase ventilation is twofold. First it vents the gases into the atmosphere (may the environmentalists hound you for life ). Secondly it lacks the evacuation capabilities and allows moisture and contaminant accumulation in the oil. That should mean more frequent oil changes to keep oil quality up.

I also am aware that Gen II were prone to make-up air oil accumulation. That is the connection to the air box. A vented system could be employed there as the minor vacuum resulting from the air filter resistance provides very little positive flow, and is only effective when under WOT conditions.

 

[firstcolonial]

Good info...so on my Gen II if I plan to use a basic can (no offense to Daves can just too expensive)do you guys think its best to return back to the CCV, dead end, or return back to air box. And does the can need to be vented?

Sorry to prolong...I guess ive researched too much and over complicated this

 

[Jack B]

On the GenII I'm referring the CCV (orifice?) on top if the block that tees into the intake manifold. Dave's kit blocks off the CCV line coming from orifice and connects it to the lines running to the catch can. Here's a pic: Engine Breather System 1996-2002 Vipers per Dave: "you also need to catch the oil out of the lifter valley thru the pcv valve before it enters the intake. "

I did the same exact set-up as Dave's photos. Not to take away from his efforts, but, the stock hoses and some fittings do the same thing and the only cost is for a catch can. I am using a small Moroso which cost about $25. Don't forget to close off the two intake holes.

For those that change to the T&D rockers, the oil flow to the valve cover increases and will find its way into the intake. I pulled my intake twice and both times the heads and intake runners were extremely oily. Even worse was that on the track, a long/hard right hander would cause the car to hesitate as the oil worked into the intake.