Pinewood derby Viper

K Adelberg

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What fun! I remember those days. To answer your question, I have no idea.

The way I won the race was to be sure to smooth the wheels. WWwhen I did it the wheels were made of plastic and had a seam in the center of the wheel. We put the wheels on a machine to assure they were round. Then load up the axles with graphite! Good luck!
 

Joseph Houss

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Lots of graphite....Lots of weight (without going over the max ... bring some nickels/pennies with 'ya ... and some duct tape to hold 'em on the underside .. and any kitchen scale). No decals (drag) .. paint ok. Viper body style probably won't reap you the best wind slicing ... stick to the "TR8 look".

Enjoy!
 

getbit

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FUNNY! I have the same question. Derby coming up and my son wanted to do a Viper like my new '01 GTS! I'm not really a woodworking guy. Good luck to both of us.
 

Vreracing

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I hadn't really thought of a TR8.

I made a little sketch. I'll probably stick to the Viper though.

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I'm better at computers and graphics than woodwork as well.
 

JonB

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My first loss: Pinewood Derby
My next loss: Soap Box Derby
My next loss: Kentucky Derby (my first wager)
My next loss: Marlene Dooley

Gee, you guys make me feel old.

JonB
 

Mark Young

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Ok, I have a fair bit of expertise in this area (and the trophies to back it up!
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1) Unlike the "old" days, hobby shops now carry rough-cut forms of pinewood derby cars in several styles- f1, hot rod, etc. You can also find decal sets, molded ABS wheel ferrings, muffler pipes, etc.

2) Make a choice early on, either you want a car that looks cool or you want a car that goes like stink. You can probably do a bit of both and do well, but nothing beats taking the checkered IMHO.

Keep in mind though that its for you and your son to have fun together, my dad tended to get a bit overzealous with the "we're in it to win" attitude
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If you want to win, here are my go-fast secrets:

1. drag is your enemy, even though it looks like a little car, the same laws of physics apply. The all-time fastest body shape I've ever found was a simple wedge, actually a sliver is more fitting. My fastest car ever was no more than half an inch thick in the back, and the front was just thick enough not to splinter off when sanding.

2. get good at sanding. Once you have the wedge, make it as smooth as possible, then make it smoother. I went all the way to wet paper with mine, something rediculous like 600 grit. The pine was so smooth you'd think it was metal.

3. don't get crazy with the paint, use a high gloss that's durable but super smooth. I lost a race once cause I used a satin finish, which negates all the time you spend sanding btw.

4. Axles. These are the little 'nails' you use. Use a fine sandpaper and mount the axle in a power drill. Then spin the drill and polish that little nail as smooth as you can get it.

5. Wheels. As the others stated, you must tune these babies. Make sure the seem is made smooth and there are no burrs or anything from the molding process. You can use a somewhat smaller "axle" and smooth the hole in the wheel so that's as smooth as possible too.

6. Graphite is your friend. Graphite on the axles/wheel hubs will get 'em spinnin nice and easy, lowering that friction as much as possible. NOTE: years later I worked in a lab at Dupont and they make this teflon 'grease' that nascars use in their bearings and stuff. Its supposedly even more slippery than Graphite.

7. My fastest car ever: I cut tiny disks out of thin plastic and sealed the outside of my wheels. Before doing so however, I supplied a generous amount of graphite in the cavity. This basically acts like a continuous-lubricating graphite reservoir. The judges were worried, but I think thats more because they knew their sons were going to have trouble, hehehe.

8. No decals, stripes, labels, etc. All they do is slow you down.

9. As was said, go as heavy as possible, within the weight limits. From experience, do not count on the scale at the derby to be accurate. I was using a super accurate one at home and when I got to one race they said I was too heavy, so I had to scramble to try and adjust my car.

Here's my weighting secrets:

Believe it or not, lead will melt on your kitchen stove. I don't recommend using your wife's best teflon *** though
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In the back of your wedge, drill a hole right in the center of it about 3 inches long (or whatever it takes to get the weight right), through the rear of the wedge (not the bottom, you want the bottom to be as smooth as possible, just like the top). Tape two pieces of wood together and drill the same hole between the pieces. Pour the lead that you melted on the stove into the hole. Separate the wood pieces, and you have a very nice lead cyllinder to put in the back of your car. Use this to get close to your target weight but stay under just a bit.

Then, make two holes on either side of the main cyllander, these need to be shallow (1/2" deep maybe). These holes are how you fine-tune your weight. What I did was to use tiny lead splitshot for fishing and candle-wax. You fill the two shallow holes with melted candle wax and split shot. When you get to weigh-in, you can easily add/remove split shot to be right at the limit weight on whatever scale the judges are using. You can even whip out a candle and re-seal it on the spot if you need to.

Thats pretty much it. If you do the stuff above I can nearly guarantee victory.

...and yes, I'm at work, and very bored.

- Mark ('99 ACR)
 

Vreracing

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I have to help my son do a Pinewood derby car. I was wondering if anyone has done one that looks like a Viper and if so what recommendations they would make.

This may be an Off topic discussion.
 

Chuck 97 GTS

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My dad and I built three of these back in the early 80's. Actually I only built the first one, dad took over and build the other two. With the exception of the numbers, everything else was paint, not decals. On years 2 & 3, we created wheel 'bearings' by pushing tiny metal pins into the wood just before and after the axle. The wheel would only contact the pin heads and not the wood. Hit it with some graphite and it would spin forever.

Year 1:

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Year 2:

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Year 3:

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After the Year 2 car LOST to some chumps who were spectacularly overweight, dad was pretty pi$$ed and decided to get crafty. The Year 3 car had a metal plate attached to the bottom for weight. Underneath it was a compartment for hiding some smaller plates. Unfortunately, even with one plate it didn't pass tech inspection and we had to use a small one to even qualify. We lost the race but did win a trophy for best design...
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Marv S

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Lots of winning tips above. If you don't want to melt lead you can:

Drill the hole in the bottom of the car and fill the hole using "Fender washers". Since they have such a small hole in the center they are almost all metal.

Use a postal (digital stamp) scale to dial in the weight to the max allowed. 5 oz. or whatever.

Paint it red/white with #91 on one side and #51 on the other side.
 
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