I thought I would give my 2 cents on this issue fearing that the casual reader would come away thinking that the Harland Sharps has a critical failure issue.
The thought that somebody out there is going to run out and buy a $1,500 (plus rods) lifter set when a $700 lifter set (with rods) will do perfectly is concerning. I was also concerned that someone had rod length/set-up concerns and thought, in regard to H-S, this might help too.
I use the Harland Sharps SLS 1.7 sets on my Roe 5lbs 2000 GTS. They were on there before the car had the blower, so I got a good idea what a car with smooth tubes, better filters and all else stock felt like with new lifters.
Before we go there, mine are:
1. Harland Sharps 1.7 (Roe #HS-SV10)
2. Pushrods are 7.500 (Roe #TD-083)
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I am not a mechanic. I rely on what good mechanics tell me and I ask alot of questions. I look for good mechanics that are patient enough to realize I really do care and am ready to listen and learn. I asked alot of questions about valve lifters and I got good solid information form both Sean Roe and Chuck Tator on this issue. They both knew my rig was going to end up in the 600 horse power range. I was going to go to a 5 lbs blower, hi-flo cat, 3" cat backs. I would try not to use water/****, I would not be using NOS. I would not be changing my pistons, I would not be changing my heads out, no special crank. And all of that might change!!
For my application there was no doubt, none, that the H-S lifters were the right answer. Rob put them in, the job went without incident, the rods are correct for this application.
Here they are, pre Roe.
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Chuck suggested that the H-S were "bullet-proof" and perfect for my application. He went on to explain:
1. They are excellent for up to 700 HP and they only run into issues when used on high horsepower cars that race alot. Then, one is better off going with heavier shafts, better retainers, twin needle bearings and stiffer units...and that will more than double the cost. I was left with the impression that H-S failures are not common, that H-S failures are NOT immediate failures, but rather in heavy race engines that can slightly begin to shift laterally, wearing and loosening. That my use of them is absolutely correct and I can go on to worry about something else altogether. When we later discussed an interesting Viper valve cover design that allows the top of the valve cover to come off for racing inspection (leaving the majority of the cover still on the head), Chuck commented that inspecting your top end is of paramount importance to racers, wear inspection of lifters being a large part of this. When they go..they can look like this in the worst of instances and in about 1 second, but his is not the kind of failure that the H-S have on the biggest rigs and inspect as a racer should.
(this is not a Viper, these lifers are PRW BlueMaxs and the issue was oil pressure failure here.
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Now, back to the H-S lifters. H-S are single needle bearing lifters. The horsepower gains are listed at their web site as being between 15-40 hp. I'm guessing in the stock set-up they are at the bottom end of that range BUT, Chuck said "You will feel this in the seat" and I did. One immediately notices a difference in acceleration, very rewarding. Ever see stock Viper lifters? Think stamped steel. The H-S are lighter and have a needle bearing.
Both Chuck and Sean made it clear that a high induction set-up would really make the new rockers come alive and, folks, I'll never know because when you add 5 lbs ino the mix the whole ride is mind blowing! I'm thinking maybe with these lifters we are moving up from 15hp to,well, more!
The more expensive lifters have needle bearings on either end. They also have different saftes and mounts. Jesels are twice the price, they will take your car to just about where-ever you want to end up. You can see the difference... Take a look.
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Folks, they BOTH are going to work perfectly all the way to 700hp+ motors (read this thread and you will see a guy using the H-S on a big motor.) They BOTH are 1.7 units. I, for one, was happy to pay $700 for both lifters and rods, rather than $1,500 for just the lifter. I'll use that cash on other parts. My 2 cents...
Apologies to all mentioned if I misquoted/misunderstood.
