Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
Number 6... and a long way before catching Dave.
Many of you send me *** with oil questions. I will answer to you personally, but I think I will also put up my answers as a new thread. Feel free to send me ***, my User CP is set to bounce it to my email so I will respond more quickly to you than to a new thread. I'll hide/change the names to protect the innocent.
hhhh,
Technically you always want cooler water but maintain higher oil temps. Oil should always be above the boiling point of water because much of the blowby is water (as a vapor) and it will condense in the oil. That forms acids (bearing corrosion) and many additives are hydrophylllic (they love water and ignore their normal duties.) You've probably seen the white mayonaisse inside an oil fill cap during the winter- that is oil and water and additives. So to the extent that low coolant temperatures keep oil temperatures below 212F, it is unhealthy.
Many antiwear additives are chemically "tuned" to start providing wear protection when they reach a certain temperature. Additive companies learned this and tuned their additives to pass the engine tests required for the API categories. OEMs noted field issues and upon the following oil category, included the KA24E, a low temperature, never warms up engine test for valve train wear. Surprise! Many "good" oils failed and had to reformulate. Theory, engine tests, and the field all show that oil and oil additives have to get up to temperature to work well.
I'm not sure what the used oil analysis would show except high rates of wear. The hard story is to convince people the oil has to run warmer and that 250F-275F oil is not too hot. Hot is when you get to 300F.
Somehow you will want to run more water through the block, but not through the oil cooler.
Good luck!
-Tom
Quote:
Originally Posted by hhhh
Tom:
I have been playing with new Yamaha FZR jet ski. It is a supercharged 1.8 liter engine. Several of the modded ski's are having an issue with gas getting into the oil. Everyone is trying to nail down why.
I want to get your opinion on one theory. One common denominator seems to be a mod that runs more water thru the block and the oil cooler. Some of these ski's have seen operating temps drop from 190 down to 140F. The engines do have typical EGR systems.
I have recommnded that they get an oil analysis, but, no one has done one yet. At that temp, I would think you would get rapid ring wear if you do any long high rpm runs. Keep in mind on a ski you may hold the the rpm right at the limiter for miles.
__________________
Many of you send me *** with oil questions. I will answer to you personally, but I think I will also put up my answers as a new thread. Feel free to send me ***, my User CP is set to bounce it to my email so I will respond more quickly to you than to a new thread. I'll hide/change the names to protect the innocent.
hhhh,
Technically you always want cooler water but maintain higher oil temps. Oil should always be above the boiling point of water because much of the blowby is water (as a vapor) and it will condense in the oil. That forms acids (bearing corrosion) and many additives are hydrophylllic (they love water and ignore their normal duties.) You've probably seen the white mayonaisse inside an oil fill cap during the winter- that is oil and water and additives. So to the extent that low coolant temperatures keep oil temperatures below 212F, it is unhealthy.
Many antiwear additives are chemically "tuned" to start providing wear protection when they reach a certain temperature. Additive companies learned this and tuned their additives to pass the engine tests required for the API categories. OEMs noted field issues and upon the following oil category, included the KA24E, a low temperature, never warms up engine test for valve train wear. Surprise! Many "good" oils failed and had to reformulate. Theory, engine tests, and the field all show that oil and oil additives have to get up to temperature to work well.
I'm not sure what the used oil analysis would show except high rates of wear. The hard story is to convince people the oil has to run warmer and that 250F-275F oil is not too hot. Hot is when you get to 300F.
Somehow you will want to run more water through the block, but not through the oil cooler.
Good luck!
-Tom
Quote:
Originally Posted by hhhh
Tom:
I have been playing with new Yamaha FZR jet ski. It is a supercharged 1.8 liter engine. Several of the modded ski's are having an issue with gas getting into the oil. Everyone is trying to nail down why.
I want to get your opinion on one theory. One common denominator seems to be a mod that runs more water thru the block and the oil cooler. Some of these ski's have seen operating temps drop from 190 down to 140F. The engines do have typical EGR systems.
I have recommnded that they get an oil analysis, but, no one has done one yet. At that temp, I would think you would get rapid ring wear if you do any long high rpm runs. Keep in mind on a ski you may hold the the rpm right at the limiter for miles.
__________________
