Replacing Upper & Lower Ball Joints

Bugeater

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Quick question (I hope!) - Saw Woodhouse has some nice higher-quality-than-stock ball joints for sale on their site. Was interested in knowing if there was anything special regarding getting the old ones out and new ones in. Assume they are installed the same way as stock...

Maybe there is a DIY out there that I didnt see in the how-to section...

Janni, you out there??? :)
 

DrumrBoy

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If you find out, I'd be happy to know the answer too. I researched it a little and everything pointed to Dodge not offering the ball-joint as a part....only as a component of the entire control arm which was pricey as hell.

Research also suggested the reason was that the joints were pressed in with a special jig (at specific temps) at the factory in order to eliminate micro cracks in the aluminum.

I didn't know whether this was BS designed to cover a Viper Tax issue or the truth, but since I track the car a bunch I went with control arms off another car.

Let us know if you crack the code on ball joint replacement!:usa:
 
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We have used these in the comp coupes for years and they get re pressed in without a problem. Rick has had these in and out many times and I have never seen a failure. You are correct that Dodge only offers new joints with the arms and this is for liability reasons if you were to stress something.


P.S. I will be installing these on my car in the winter because they make a HUGE difference over the factory ones as far as "stiction" goes.:2tu:
 

plumcrazy

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do the arms as well, cheap insurance.....

i had one break 2 miles AFTER i was at some stupids speeds for a long period of time. one broke, i replaced both.
 
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Bugeater

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We have used these in the comp coupes for years and they get re pressed in without a problem. Rick has had these in and out many times and I have never seen a failure. You are correct that Dodge only offers new joints with the arms and this is for liability reasons if you were to stress something.


P.S. I will be installing these on my car in the winter because they make a HUGE difference over the factory ones as far as "stiction" goes.:2tu:


Mark - just to clarify: these balljoints are used on GEN II & III & IV?

Are the new ones pressed in w/ the control arms still on the car or do you take them out and send them to a shop w a press?
 
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Mark - just to clarify: these balljoints are used on GEN II & III & IV?

Are the new ones pressed in w/ the control arms still on the car or do you take them out and send them to a shop w a press?

Gen3 and 4 is all we have done and yes the arms need to be out and professionally pressed so they are straight and don't fatigue the metal.
 

DrumrBoy

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Does anyone know of the ball joint part and a shop that can press 'em in in a Gen 2 control arm? I got some extrees!:)
 

Tom F&L GoR

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To share small details, I have in my notes (and I think it originated with Janni) that for Gen 2 the

lower ball joint is PN 4848174
lower ball joint boot is 52006404
upper ball joint is "the common ball joint from a full size van" (It has the squared off top to use a large socket)
upper ball joint boot is 52006405
 
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Bugeater

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Gen3 and 4 is all we have done and yes the arms need to be out and professionally pressed so they are straight and don't fatigue the metal.

Mark,
The Woodhouse Performance ad for these states it fits years 1994-Current... Any idea if this is correct? Really want to move on these or get some new stockers...

I guess I could bother Rick but figgured I would try here 1st.
 
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Mark,
The Woodhouse Performance ad for these states it fits years 1994-Current... Any idea if this is correct? Really want to move on these or get some new stockers...

I guess I could bother Rick but figgured I would try here 1st.


There are of course 2 PN for upper and lower, but yes the years are the same.
 

DrumrBoy

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To share small details, I have in my notes (and I think it originated with Janni) that for Gen 2 the

lower ball joint is PN 4848174
lower ball joint boot is 52006404
upper ball joint is "the common ball joint from a full size van" (It has the squared off top to use a large socket)
upper ball joint boot is 52006405


Tom, thanks. This is great G2.....I was told they were unavailable. I guess you just need to have a truck!
 

Janni

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Hi there

a few hints

Buy the special tool to remove the uppers - they SCREW IN. You'll need about a 40 foot extension for your socket wrench. the big socket is great. They also have a ball joint 'popper' to remove the old ones. I am not a big fan of the "beat it out with a 5 pound sledge method"

A local machine shop pressed ours in - make sure you consider the zerk fitting and where it will end up so that you make greasing them easier in the future (or at least not harder...)

on a couple, we were able to put the control arms in the oven for an hour or so and drop them right in - so that works too.
 

DrumrBoy

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Janni,

Thanks. What temp did you "cook em" at in the oven to get them to open up without changing the metallurgy?
 

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