royal purple eng oil in 08?

[Joe Dozzo]

Hello Tom!

Are you still a fan of Delvac? Even in an 08?

Thanks

 

[Vipermann]

Actually, when the API service symbol changed from SG to SH to SJ to SL to SM, which covers the time Vipers have been produced, the difference has become large enough that Gen 1 cars might want to pay attention. API SG and SH oils had 50% more anti-wear additive than current API SM oils. It's mostly OK since the real need is for sliding lifter cams, but all Vipers have had roller lifters. However, if you rebuild your engine, a new API SM oil makes for a poor oil to break the engine in.

The additive in question contains phosphorus and zinc; the OEMs believe the phosphorus slowly poisons the catalytic converter over the now-required 100,000+ mile life requirement.

Diesel engine oils, motorcycle oils, and "hot rod" oils have higher antiwear additive levels. I think there are already enough racers and engine builders with problems caused by modern oils that they won't use off-the-shelf Mobil anymore. By the time API SN (or whatever the next one is called) comes out, I suspect the major oil brands will begin a second marketing push with a much broader definition of "old car" oils.

Close to being totally confused.

I put 5K on my last SRT in 12 months, so it did a lot of sitting around. And reco in this regard?

Also, I've got a '67 Mustang with a rebuilt 289 HiPo - the builder put 30wt. in for the first fill, but it's time for it's first change soon. Any thoughts?

 

[Kc Gray]

I'm using Royal ******* in my farm tractor. Anyway, the radiator blew today while plowing, so I figured I would just transfer some of that Royal Miracle to the coolant system to limp home.

Every thing was going well when the Royal Screech fluid I use in the brakes started smoking. I had a can of WD-Royal, so I sprayed things down and continued on.

When the PTO hitch broke crossing the creek, I was able to get 'er put back together with some JB Royal Weld. It was getting dark, and good think I had my DuraRoyal Flashlight batteries all fresh.

Grandma saw my troubles when I was pulling up, and had a cold Royal BS ready for me. Sun will come up tomorrow shortly. Gotta go.

 

[Bolt]

Good discussion, Keep this one allive at a technical level. I have been running Mobile 1 since 1977 and tore a lot of my motors down. Talk about clean. I know, why did I tear them down? No reason, I'm kinda wierd like that. Nothing wrong with the motor, just wanted to look inside. I hear a lot about RP but have not tried it yet. The only reason I'm sticking with Mobile 1 is the availability. I remember the day when mobile 1 did not have a viscosity rating. Boy did that stuff pour out the seals.

Another trick with an old motor which may be gunked up. I run 3 qts of Mobile 1 and 2 qts Marvel Mystery oil for 2 changes then go to 4 qts Mobile 1 and 1 qt marvel Mystery oil from then on. Of course this is for a 5 qt motor. This cleans the system slowly.

I change my Mobile 1 twice a year irregardless of the mileage. Before winter and before summer. I feel this give me fresh protection at the critical times of mamimum tempratures.


Here is a peak inside my motor after 27,000 miles.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[JKVIPER]

Considering Mobil 1 is recommended by Dodge for the Viper, that's what I use.

I have used Mobil 1 in my 2000 Lexus GS400 and 210,000 miles later it still does not use/burn any oil at all. My normal change interval is every 5000 miles or so.

 

[ccbatson]

Of course, you do realize that what it looks like to the eye when opened up may mean absolutely nothing.

 

[dave6666]

Of course, you do realize that what it looks like to the eye when opened up may mean absolutely nothing.

Great point. I mean, my kitchen skillet looks ready to cook whether oiled up with olive oil or Mobil 1.

 

[Steve17]

After watching the demo I might switch to RP. I was not impressed with Mobil 1. After tracking my car, I changed the oil and the oil drain pan looked like it had tiny metalic pieces swirling in it.

 

[viperbilliam]

After watching the demo I might switch to RP. I was not impressed with Mobil 1. After tracking my car, I changed the oil and the oil drain pan looked like it had tiny metalic pieces swirling in it.

There's an excellent chance if you ran RP after tracking your car you will see the same thing. This reminds of the vacuum cleaner demonstration in my home. The salesman ran his $1000 machine over my carpet which I cleaned with my $150 machine. He showed me how much dirt was left by taking out the filter after this demonstration. I asked him to run his machine over the same carpet and then show the filter (I turned his trick back on him) to me again. What do you think happened? Yep, there was more dirt. The point here is that vacuum cleaners and Viper engines have a lot in common. Wouldn't you agree, Dave 666?

 

[ViperTony]

Wait....someone here has an '08 and they already want to mess with the oil based on a demonstration??? Just drive the beast, forget about Royal Purple. If SRT thought it was superior to Mobil 1 they would've have included it with the '08. Forget about Royal Purple, just drive the ****** Viper.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Hello Tom!

Are you still a fan of Delvac? Even in an 08?

Thanks

Yes I am. You aren't missing anything and gaining a lot more protection.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Close to being totally confused.

I put 5K on my last SRT in 12 months, so it did a lot of sitting around. And reco in this regard?

Also, I've got a '67 Mustang with a rebuilt 289 HiPo - the builder put 30wt. in for the first fill, but it's time for it's first change soon. Any thoughts?

My main point is that oil performance as defined in 2008 doesn't guarantee the same good performance in older engines or rebuilt engines. Historically, in the time period from API SE to SF to SG oils, the additive quantity increased tremendously and oil did get better. Using a newer oil in an older car was better. But now OEMs want things taken out, and these things were important when the older engines were designed. So older engines may or may not get the protection they need.

I have anecdotal stories of new Mobil 15W-50 not being that great for all-out race engines like it used to be. True or not, given the change in chemistry I would not be surprised about that comment. The diesel oils, motorcycle oils, and some "race oils" still use either more or older additive technology (or both) and therefore may be better suited for an early '90s engine.

Mobil 1 would be very satisfactory for an engine that was designed with it in mind. Keep using it in your '08.

In your Mustang, with sliding lifters, you might want to use diesel oils, motorcycle oils, or as Joe Gibbs calls them, "hot rod oils" because they will have the chemistry that the engine was designed around.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Good discussion, Keep this one allive at a technical level. I have been running Mobile 1 since 1977 and tore a lot of my motors down. Talk about clean. I know, why did I tear them down? No reason, I'm kinda wierd like that. Nothing wrong with the motor, just wanted to look inside. I hear a lot about RP but have not tried it yet. The only reason I'm sticking with Mobile 1 is the availability. I remember the day when mobile 1 did not have a viscosity rating. Boy did that stuff pour out the seals.

Your comment is very pertinent. Mobil 1 in 1977 was a lot different than today. Just because the brand name on the front is the same, the liquid inside may be very different. Changing the formulation was part of my 20+ years at Texaco and we always called it Havoline.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

After watching the demo I might switch to RP. I was not impressed with Mobil 1. After tracking my car, I changed the oil and the oil drain pan looked like it had tiny metalic pieces swirling in it.

RP may have the best oil product in the world, I really don't know. But they have used the lowest form of marketing if they base the product superiority on the Falex tester. It is the same as Amsoil using the four-ball test - it means nothing to engine performance. But if you are considering a purchase based on that, then I have a bridge for you...

 

[Billy Coons]

I bought my 03 last year from a guy in Buffalo, NY with 3k miles. Car was 4 years old at the time and still had the original factory fill oil in it. Drove it home to VA (about 1k miles) and had a local Viper tech change the oil for it's first time and do a safety inspection.

No issues driving it home. When I checked the oil before and after the trip, it looked almost as clear as the new oil the tech put in. We were both quite impressed. Had the oil pan off to install a Paxton and everything looked great visually. I change it now twice a year or every 5k miles.

Works well cooling my Paxton. As for my 4 stroke lawnmower & weedwacker, 3 years ago I filled them with an old half-full bottle of Mobile 1 syn that was sitting in my garage for about 10 years. They still run like champs and always start right up.

Mobile 1 synthetic is awesome. It is the factory fill on many expensive, high-end cars. I'm sold...and Wal-Mart and Pep-Boys has occassional sales on them as well.

 

[Vipermann]

This all reminds me of a super high-tech oil called Arco Graphite from back in the day when I was in HS (I think) -- it was black with bits of graphite in it! ...any takers for some old cans of that oil now?

 

[jamie furman]

Actually, when the API service symbol changed from SG to SH to SJ to SL to SM, which covers the time Vipers have been produced, the difference has become large enough that Gen 1 cars might want to pay attention. API SG and SH oils had 50% more anti-wear additive than current API SM oils. It's mostly OK since the real need is for sliding lifter cams, but all Vipers have had roller lifters. However, if you rebuild your engine, a new API SM oil makes for a poor oil to break the engine in.

The additive in question contains phosphorus and zinc; the OEMs believe the phosphorus slowly poisons the catalytic converter over the now-required 100,000+ mile life requirement.

Diesel engine oils, motorcycle oils, and "hot rod" oils have higher antiwear additive levels. I think there are already enough racers and engine builders with problems caused by modern oils that they won't use off-the-shelf Mobil anymore. By the time API SN (or whatever the next one is called) comes out, I suspect the major oil brands will begin a second marketing push with a much broader definition of "old car" oils.

Well you seem to know alot about oil so let me ask you, is mobil 1 good, bad or indifferent for use in my 67 427 corvette , or my 70 hemicuda? I just changed the oil in both and put mobil 1 in them as I thought it was a better lubricating oil. And if they were your cars what would you put in them?
thanks in advance

 

[Racer Robbie]

had a demonstration on mobil 1 and royal purple on friction,they used a machine and compared it to mobil 1 and royal purple out performed it by far,what do you guys think about royal purple?

I have been beating the Royal Purple drum for years. We run their products in everything form viper engines, transmissions, diffs to motorcycles and boat engines. in every case the engines run smoother, quieter, and cooler with almost zero oil consumption between oil changes.

 

[adamlotus]

i went with rp and i noticed oil pressure staying higher with 100 degree days .im staying with rp and also going to have it in the rear diff.