12000 miles and 5 Track days so far and my front pads look shot. Leading edge on all 4 front pads have worn 3-4 times faster than trailing edge. This might also explain why I have felt a slightly rougher (mild grind, but nice bite!) braking after a few hot laps. Im assuming since the rears are not the same, this is strictly a result of the tracking and that these stock street pads are abrading away as expected.
As much as I hate wrenchin now, I might as well get used to doing this part myself. Does anyone know the answers to the following questions :
Proper torque for the 10mm headed caliper retaining bolts? Anti-seize or locktite?
Without removing the caliper first, its hard for me to see what tool (if any) I will need for removing the retaining pins. Are these held in by the caliper bolts? If they are threaded, what is the tool and torque?
Should I drop a set of CCoupe front pads in for both track/street use? Or is using the CCoupe pads on the street a dangerous no-no? Do the pads go in dry?
Proper torque for the bleeder valves? I had these set to 12lbs and the front calipers bleeders were weeping out a bit of my SRF after a few hot sessions.
Thanks.
As much as I hate wrenchin now, I might as well get used to doing this part myself. Does anyone know the answers to the following questions :
Proper torque for the 10mm headed caliper retaining bolts? Anti-seize or locktite?
Without removing the caliper first, its hard for me to see what tool (if any) I will need for removing the retaining pins. Are these held in by the caliper bolts? If they are threaded, what is the tool and torque?
Should I drop a set of CCoupe front pads in for both track/street use? Or is using the CCoupe pads on the street a dangerous no-no? Do the pads go in dry?
Proper torque for the bleeder valves? I had these set to 12lbs and the front calipers bleeders were weeping out a bit of my SRF after a few hot sessions.
Thanks.