Snapped off a lugnut, need advise...

SoCal Rebell

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I had my tires shaved yesterday, when I went home I tightned my lugs, first with a lug wrench and then a torque wrench set at 100 lbs. Tightened them all and when I got to the last one "snap" it broke off. What kind of job is this to repair? I guess it is OK to drive sparingly until repaired. This is a 2000, could there of been a defect (seeing the tq. wrench was set at only 100 lbs), will DC cover with warranty?
 

SteveBCloud9

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Well, I've had ones brake off on other cars and it was an easy fix. Here's what to do:

1) Buy the stud from Dodge.
2) Take off the tire and use a punch with a hammer to knock out the broken stud pin (towards the car).
3) Push the new stud through the back of the wheel hub (It won't go through all of the way as they are pressed in)
4) Attach a lug nut to the stud and tighten it until it draws the stud all the way through the hub.

That's it. Again, look at the hub, but it should be the same as all other cars. Good luck.
 
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S

SoCal Rebell

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Ulysses:
Not so easy on a Viper. You'll find that trying to remove them from the rears are a pain.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ulyssess, it is on the front, any difference from the rear?????
 

ACR Joe

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Don't assume that your torque wrench is functioning properly. I have a Craftsman 0 - 150 ft. lb. torque wrench. I used it to torque the lower rear shock/spring assembly to the lower control arm bolt. At the upper end of the scale, the wrench simply didn't "click" and I cranked and cranked until I stretched and ultimately destroyed the bolt.

Also, never use any type of lubricant on the face of the lug nut or mating surface of the wheel. The reduced friction will cause you to over-tighten the lug nut until it stretches, strips, or snaps. Been there, done that as well.
 

David Jenkins

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ACR Joe is on it. I've got over $1,000 worth of Snap-On torque wrenches. They do go out of calibration. I get them calibrated. I'm not saying the stud broke because of that. If the lug nut was ever "over torqued", impact wrench or by hand, the stud could have possibly been stretched. Installing it this time may have just done it in. dj
 

DonMc

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i replaced the drivers side rear wheel stud on my acr about 2 months ago..believe it or not it was stripped from the factory!! you have to be careful not to hammer very ******* the stud (which is typical way to do it) because it can damage the rear bearing assembly...says so right in the service manual..in fact. it said use special puller xyz don't hammer it...i was going to race at vir the next weekend and didn't have time to go tool shopping so here is what i did and it worked well...take out brake pads and this allow you remove the rotor...position the stud where the indent is on the plate that holds the spindle on..i cut 2 pieces of 1.5x1.5 angle iron such that they would fit between the spindle and the bracket snuggly so when i hammered on the stud the force was transfered to the brace and not on the bearing..this also makes a solid brace such that you don't have to hammer hard to remove the stud...i tapped mine softly until it started to move...i also used pb blaster (i am a great fan of this junk in a yellow can, much better than wd for stuck stuff) to help in the removal...you do have to loosen the 4 bolts that hold the spindle on but only slightly...mine would hit the bracket wihtout loosening these do not remove them..putting stud in is piece of cake, put some antisieze on it and use a lug nut to pull it thru...i know this is sorta cryptic but send me an email with a phoen number if ya want to discuss on phone and i can call ya....the worse part of it all was the $20 for the stinkin new stud!!!!
 

scottgf

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I guess I could look this up in my service manual, but what is the correct torque for the lug nuts?...just wondering while at work...does YEAR MATTER?
cheers,
 

FrankBarba

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marv...this is great on paper..but what happens after my car car been driven ? the number 1 position has changed. which means all of the other studs with lug nuts have moved since i origionally torqued the lug nuts down.
 

JonB

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Vip-RT10:
HEMIDAYTNA..........just remember where the valve stem is. So this way you can remember which is #1. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


Frank B: "Fish On!"


Antonio....... Frank was just jokin' wit 'im mon........

You young guys are great!
 

JonB

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by DonMc:
i replaced the drivers side rear wheel stud on my acr about 2 months ago......the worse part of it all was the $20 for the stinkin new stud !!!!<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

"Want Fries With That?" Add a spare wheel stud to any order for just $10 more! JonB Rule of Spares:

"If you have a spare ANYTHING you will likley never need it."
 

Ulysses

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Ron, I haven't removed the fronts before, just looking at it, it looks easier to do than the rears. We had a discussion on this a few months back but it's no longer in the archives. Hopefully someone will chime in who has done the fronts.
 

Jerry Scott[CO]

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I bought the Dodge puller tool and it works very well. It is worth having since it can be used for ball joints as well. Be very careful about hammering it out, as this will damage the bearings in the hub. Mine twisted off at the track when the hub was hot. I now use anti-sieze on the studs and have not had a problem since. As ACR Joe mentioned, do not get any anti-sieze lubricant on the contact area of the nut ( where the nut meets the wheel), as it will cause the nut to be over-torqued. If you keep anti-sieze on the studs each time you remove a wheel, you will not have this problem again.
 
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