So, I Went To Open My Pass. Window and..

Vipuronr

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And, the seal that sits on that black door handle mount on RT10 just dislodged. I know they were never made well to begin with, but this still surprises me. Worse yet, I can't figure out if it can even be mounted again, as it almost looks like it was originally stapled to the piece.:dunno:

I know, need pictures....will take.

Has anyone else had this and is there anything that can be done without having to totally replace the piece (told about $400 for that piece alone).:crazy2:

Thanks.
 

99 R/T 10

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Common problem. The 96-98 cars seems to be the worse culprits. I epoxyed mine back into position, but who knows how long it will hold. A replacement is not cheap. :(
 

Dom426h

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Are you talking about the trim piece / Bezzel?

there is 4 clips that lock it to the actual door handle. They break off.
An easy fix is to put the bezzel back on with some Black Silicone Adhesive.
(epoxy is too perminate for me...)

Also there is 2 speed nuts that hold the rest of the thing together, they can be replaced as well as the screws.
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Vipuronr

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Does epoxy really work and, if so, what is a good brand? I will take pictures to show the piece, looks a little bent to me, but that maybe the way it was made.

Thanks for all the comments.

Peter
 

plumcrazy

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do a search for window or door stanchion, its been discussed a lot and there were a few cheap fixes for it too.

at the time mine went, tator had the best deal on the part and it was like 345 bucks.
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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Are you talking about that rubber piece at the top of the stanchion and the window slides into it? If so, mine came off years ago. It's sitting in my toolbox waiting for me to get around to putting it back on.
 
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Vipuronr

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So, I took out the Viper yesterday for a nice relaxing ride and realized that the banging when opening my driver's side window was caused by the same piece....except it didn't come out, got lodged inside. Hardly noticeable unless you know what you are looking for.

So, the fix is important if I can do it. I do not want to spend $800 for two pieces right now.:confused:

Thanks all.:headbang:

Peter
 
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Vipuronr

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Yup, so here are the pictures....

Shot of door stanchion area and strip already out:

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The window strip...to me, kind of bent, but I have no idea if that is correct:

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So, now I have no idea what the procedure is to fix. Do I have to dismantle the door and take the stancion out or can it be fixed somehow by lowering the window and using epoxy to put it back in place. Also, it is obviously longer than the stancion area, so where does the bottom part of the strip go...does it just hang?

Thanks much.

Peter
 

sirhc76

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I used liquid nails on mine after I found both of them in the doors when I bought the car, still holding strong after 17 months. I removed the entire stanchion so that I could clamp a backing board with padding on the face. The strip was held in place with several wood clamps and pre cut 1x until the liquid nails dried. That weather strip goes down along the inside of the door about 6 inches, answer to question two. The service manual has the procedure on how to get the stanchions off.
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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Yup, so here are the pictures....

Shot of door stanchion area and strip already out:

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The window strip...to me, kind of bent, but I have no idea if that is correct:

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So, now I have no idea what the procedure is to fix. Do I have to dismantle the door and take the stancion out or can it be fixed somehow by lowering the window and using epoxy to put it back in place. Also, it is obviously longer than the stancion area, so where does the bottom part of the strip go...does it just hang?

Thanks much.

Peter

Yuck. Nope. Haven't had that problem yet.
 
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Vipuronr

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Thanks....you know, now that I look at it, I can use it as a decorative first letter - "S" - in my daughter's name, Shelby!:lmao:

But seriously, Liquid Nails, have not heard of that. Where can I get it? I will do a net search, but just in case, thought I'd ask.

Guess this is one of my upcoming projects.:crazy2:

So, lastly, is any of that bending correct...or is it all from being moved around by the window once it got loose.:nono:

Peter
 

99 R/T 10

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You can get Liquid nails at Home Depot or your local hardware store. I have heard this stuff works great. The piece will need to bend away where it disappears from view to allow the window to come up easily. Take a lot of pictures detailing how everything was done and the Mods will post it up in the "Illustrated Upgrades" area and make you famous................... :2tu:
 

bvk

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yeah my '98 has the exact same issue, the piece is also sitting on my workbench waiting around. I too shyed away from the ~350+ dollar fix for a new bit, i'll probably try the liquid nails approach.
 
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Vipuronr

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99 R/T 10, do I bend the piece away from the window towards the door....assume it goes that way to avoid the window.

Another questions....the piece and the area on the stancion where it is attached has (what looks like) glue residue which looks like was used by factory to attach. Do I have to clean it for the Liquid Nails to work correctly and if so, what do I clean it with.

Thanks to all for your help.

Peter
 

sirhc76

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I lightly sanded the contact edges for better adhesion and cleaned with denatured alcohol prior to liquid nails. Make sure that you use as little liquid nails as possible, it goes a long way and if you use too much it will make a mess. Let it set up after clamping then clean any excess. I recall the top of the strip being flush with the edge of the stanchion and the bottom overhang sliding on the window. This part was a PITA to get back in correctly, going off of memory and I have slept since then. I searched through 18 gigs of pictures and couldn't find the ones I took during the process. I had to clean some of the photos out and though Id look while doing that.

Chris
 
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Vipuronr

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Okay, good point...to make sure I get the right glue (epoxy), can you tell me the exact name of the Liquid Nails?

Thanks...I want to make sure I do it the right way the first time.

Much appreciated.:2tu:

Peter
 

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