Spark plugs for RT/10?

syldogRT/10

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I'm going to replace the plugs on my 94 RT/10 to as a first step in resolving the rough idle when cold. I already adjusted the TB's. What are you guys using and has any one tried the nalogy silverstone plugs? Thanks for the help!

ps-My car came with the champion rc12lyc plug.
 

Roland L-Ocala FL

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I would stick with what is recommended in the owner's manual or how it came from the factory. I understand that in many cases, changing the plug to another style or even brand, will cause changes to the sensors on the engine and may cause some strange things to happen.
 

ViperJoe

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The Champ lawn mower plugs are the best for a stock lightly modded Viper

Spark Plugs
Champion - RC12LYC
Gap to .038

Here is the breakdown for the Champion part number:

R= 14mm Thread, Gasket seat
C= 3/4 Inch Reach
12= Heat Range
E or LY= Projected Tip
C= Copper Core
CC= Double Copper (Copper core AND Copper Cored Ground Electrode)
 
OP
OP
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syldogRT/10

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K thanks guys. I was gonna buy the Bosch that Alans performance has on sale but I guess I;ll go with the Champions that came with the car. Thnaks.
 

RoadiJeff

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My service manual says gap to 0.033-0.038, so I guess 0.035 is about midstream.

Also, recommended torque is 28 Nm (20 ft. lbs.) if anyone else is as anal about this kind of thing as I am.
 

-FROG-

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It's good to go by torque settings if you are learning to tinker with cars, but when you have been doing it for a while, you go more by expierence and feel.
 

klamathpro

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All Champion coppers have zinc plated threads, so I didn't bother putting anti-seize on when I changed mine. On my TT V6 aluminum block (which got very hot too) I never used anti-seize either. Is there anything special about the Viper block that "requires" anti-seize?
 

RoadiJeff

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I use anti-seize, whether it is on our Viper or my wife's PT Cruiser...or my lawn mower.

Also, be sure and use some dielectric grease in the boot to aid in installation and make it easier to remove the next time.
 

V10SpeedLuvr

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All Champion coppers have zinc plated threads, so I didn't bother putting anti-seize on when I changed mine. On my TT V6 aluminum block (which got very hot too) I never used anti-seize either. Is there anything special about the Viper block that "requires" anti-seize?

My mechanic told me I didnt have to use anti-seize on mine either. He said it wouldn't really help any, but if I did, it wouldnt hurt either. So I did just to be safe(r)
 
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grcforce327

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All Champion coppers have zinc plated threads, so I didn't bother putting anti-seize on when I changed mine. On my TT V6 aluminum block (which got very hot too) I never used anti-seize either. Is there anything special about the Viper block that "requires" anti-seize?

My mechanic told me I didnt have to use anti-seize on mine either. He said it wouldn't really help any, but if I did, it wouldnt hurt either. So I did just to be safe(r)

When I bought my car,the plugs had been changed at least once already,and when I went to change them,(I always do on any vehicle I buy),I was cursing because I thought I was going to pull the threads along with the plugs in two holes!With anti-seize there is never any issues!Do what you want,I'll stick with anti-seize on all plugs!!!

Anti-seize = :headbang: :2tu:

Non anti-seize = :buttkick: :bonker: :nono:
 

Jerome Sparich

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If you use anti-seize use very little and make sure to only put it on the threads.

You need to make sure that the plug still has the base (whether tapered seat or crush gasket) bare so it can make a solid contact with the head and complete the ground. If not you could be chasing a misfire for a very long time.
 

V10SpeedLuvr

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How can you tell if you have a misfire? I had a toasted plug wire before and it never even kicked a check engine light. And yes, the light works because it came on when I forgot to reconnect the sensor in the airbox one time.
 

carguy07

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If you use anti-seize use very little and make sure to only put it on the threads.

You need to make sure that the plug still has the base (whether tapered seat or crush gasket) bare so it can make a solid contact with the head and complete the ground. If not you could be chasing a misfire for a very long time.


Do you know this to be true or is it possibly a wives tale? I remember being told several times to be careful with anti-seize because it is highly conductible.

Just curious.
 
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grcforce327

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If you use anti-seize use very little and make sure to only put it on the threads.

You need to make sure that the plug still has the base (whether tapered seat or crush gasket) bare so it can make a solid contact with the head and complete the ground. If not you could be chasing a misfire for a very long time.


Do you know this to be true or is it possibly a wives tale? I remember being told several times to be careful with anti-seize because it is highly conductible.

Just curious.

My anti-seize is a copper compound,and we all know how non-conductive copper is!

:bonker: :bonker: :buttkick: :buttkick: :buttkick: :bonker: :bonker:
 

Jerome Sparich

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If you use anti-seize use very little and make sure to only put it on the threads.

You need to make sure that the plug still has the base (whether tapered seat or crush gasket) bare so it can make a solid contact with the head and complete the ground. If not you could be chasing a misfire for a very long time.


Do you know this to be true or is it possibly a wives tale? I remember being told several times to be careful with anti-seize because it is highly conductible.

Just curious.

I know this because it is true and I have seen it myself. Being a former auto tech I do have knowledge of this, and now in my current field I still install 1,000+ sparkplugs a year and do not use the silver anti-seize.

Like mentioned in the post above this one, use the "copper" one if you do use any.

I have seen many "techs" chase their tails trying to find a misfire only to discover it was the anti-seize.

Now remember, a little may not do a thing. Too much and lose the ground, then you know what will happen.
 

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