There are three temperature sensors. One for the gauge, one for the red idiot light and one for the ECU. Even if the gauge sensor failed, the ECU is looking at another one to operate the engine. I'm cheap, so my follow on comment is that buying a cheap sensor for the gauge is OK. The gauge readings may be a little different (slightly higher or lower) than before, but the gauge is only to see trends and changes, not the absolute number anyway. I've used an elaborate engine diagnostic code reader in the past that showed what each sensor was reading and they are different by 10F-15F anyway. Most of that were variations during thermostat cycling - one end gets hotter or colder before the other (in my Gen 1.) I'd buy the OEM for the ECU sensor, of course.