Throttle Body Bearing Removal/Installation?

[Kevan]

Hey folks.
I finally got the info on the proper way to disassemble the TB (thank you kindly, Mr. Roe), but the description of how to remove the bearings isn't clear.
The pictures that normally come with the instructions didn't come through in the email.

It looks as though the bearings on both sides are blind-pressed into place.

Is this a "freezer/heat gun"-type removal?
Tips and tricks appreciated.
Thanks!


I'm working on a pic-heavy DIY article on disassembly/re-assembly.
If allowed, I'll post a link to the SRT-friendly site that it'll be on once finished.

 

[Viper Specialty]

What is the reason? If you plan to powdercoat, we have found that the bearings can stand up to this temp without issue, just oil and massage them upon completion- as the grease inside bakes and sticks. I cant think of any other reason to remove them short of damage...?

 

[Kevan]

Dan- you're correct. It's going to JMB for some spiffy new red clothes.
You sure the bearings can handle that kinda heat? I'm sure they're quality and all, but....it's the pseudo-engineer in me that has doubts.
As I'm only having the outside done, I guess they'll be fairly protected.

I'll give it a shot.
If they come back feeling like hell, I reserve the right to say "I f-ing knew it!"
LOL

Thanks!

 

[Viper Specialty]

Dan- you're correct. It's going to JMB for some spiffy new red clothes.
You sure the bearings can handle that kinda heat? I'm sure they're quality and all, but....it's the pseudo-engineer in me that has doubts.
As I'm only having the outside done, I guess they'll be fairly protected.

I'll give it a shot.
If they come back feeling like hell, I reserve the right to say "I f-ing knew it!"
LOL

Thanks!

You wont have issues. the only part of the bearing even remotely sensititve to heat are the seals on the side, but they are silicon and quite sturdy at temp. PC is only about 300-350 degrees, not unbelieveably hot by any means. Just make sure the PC guys mask off those areas... otherwise, heat will be the least of your issues! haha


PS- they certainly will feel like hell until you get them re-oiled/greased, as the old oil and grease in them will bake. After that, A-OK.

Believe it or not, we have actually tried PC'ing a T-body that was ASSEMBLED [short of the sensor]- it actually came out perfect! There is nothing in the whole assembly that is very heat sensitive- even the little plastic nub on the linkage is bake-a-lite or a similar plastic, and had no issue with the heat.

 

[V10BAT]

I LIKE INFO

 

[Kevan]

BAT- I'll post up a DIY here and let the Admin decide if I'm worthy or not.
My DIY articles are pretty detailed, with a ton of pics. Not for the 56K'ers.
Links to previous ones available upon request.

Dan- thanks for the info.
One of the reasons for disassembly is because the Viper CARS only have (1) "plastic nub" on the linkage.
The trucks have (3); throttle, cruise control, alien control(?).
The downside: DCX doesn't sell just the linkage/TB axle. You have to buy the entire TB to get it.

ENQUIRY: If anyone has a linkage/TB axle from an SRT-10 truck just kicking around the workbench or garage, I would like to purchase said part from you.