Took my SRT track pack 2013 to CMP today...

[MGWLTD]

w ell I decided after 900 miles on the clock to run the SRT up at CMP in Kershaw. the car is stock except mark at woodhouse put some carbotech pads on it before shipping to me. First the good... power is great and the car was very stable at speed....now the not so good...even with the brake pads the brakes were less than I thought and most worrisome was how the car behaved under hard braking. Coming down from about 132 mph to 70 the car literally "changed lanes" on me . I need to contact SRT and find out if something is going on with the ABS or the pads . Maybe having stock tires with such aggressive pads caused the issue but it was VERY VERY scary. If anybody has any ideas please let me know. I have run this track for years and with probably 60 different cars and this was the scariest car on track lol...Fun but scary. Oh and the stock Pirellis are OK but I think the Michelins would be better. I normally run low to mid 1:40's at CMP with cars on hoosiers and I ran a 1:48.18 in the SRT going quite easy on the brakes and shifting getting used to the car. So I think even on stock tires this car is easily good for a 1:45 with me driving. I'll post up a video when I get it uploaded to youtube later in the week.

 

[Boxer12]

I doubt you had ABS issues. Did you bed your pads? Check tire pressures?

 

[Allan White Mamba 200/200]

I had the same issue with my SRT TP on my first track outing-stock pads- but it got much better after that. No problems now. Have about 10 track days now and the car is running very strong. Corsa's ****, would never use again but, with R6s the car is VERY FAST !!! Allan

 

[Policy Limits]

prolly just a break in issue but should get them checked to be sure. According to MT, the bolts can snap off and the pedal can get stuck to the floor

I'm over 600 miles now and can feel the car loosening up in shifting, clutch, brakes. Still not feeling ready for the track yet, but shifting less at 3500 and more at 4000RPM's

 

[kratedisease]

w ell I decided after 900 miles on the clock to run the SRT up at CMP in Kershaw. the car is stock except mark at woodhouse put some carbotech pads on it before shipping to me. First the good... power is great and the car was very stable at speed....now the not so good...even with the brake pads the brakes were less than I thought and most worrisome was how the car behaved under hard braking. Coming down from about 132 mph to 70 the car literally "changed lanes" on me . I need to contact SRT and find out if something is going on with the ABS or the pads . Maybe having stock tires with such aggressive pads caused the issue but it was VERY VERY scary. If anybody has any ideas please let me know. I have run this track for years and with probably 60 different cars and this was the scariest car on track lol...Fun but scary. Oh and the stock Pirellis are OK but I think the Michelins would be better. I normally run low to mid 1:40's at CMP with cars on hoosiers and I ran a 1:48.18 in the SRT going quite easy on the brakes and shifting getting used to the car. So I think even on stock tires this car is easily good for a 1:45 with me driving. I'll post up a video when I get it uploaded to youtube later in the week.

Is this for real ??? Are these Vipers made in China or what ?

 

[ViperSmith]

Is this for real ??? Are these Vipers made in China or what ?

It isn't even worth posting issues on this site due to comments like this in every single thread.

 

[ViperSmith]

Curious to see what the resolution / cause is.

 

[Bobpantax]

It usually takes about 100 miles to break in new pads. Durng that time, there should be no hard braking. I have seen a car behave as your car did when it was driven aggressively before pads were broken in. Could that be a factor here?

 

[VENOM V]

Very interesting. I drove my Gen V for the past three days. Had a chance to do some spirited driving up in the hills at some pretty high speeds. Not sure how stable it felt at speed yet, to be honest. It feels like you really need to pay attention to the car.

I'll know a lot more on 9/6 when I track it for the first time at Thunderhill. I know the track well and very few walls to hit. Trying to decide if I want to run the Corsas on the maiden track voyage or start with the standard P Zeros. (I have a set of tires/wheels for the street, another for the track). I haven't heard good things about the Corsas on the Viper, I'll be switching to Michelin Pilot Sport Cups as soon as they wear out. Would love to try the R6s some day, but need to drive 3 hours on the tires to get to the track.

 

[VENOM V]

I had the same issue with my SRT TP on my first track outing-stock pads- but it got much better after that. No problems now. Have about 10 track days now and the car is running very strong. Corsa's ****, would never use again but, with R6s the car is VERY FAST !!! Allan

Allan,

I've been looking for you to post since you had the handling issues where you had some scary moments. Can you elaborate? Hows the car handling now? Sounds like you got the MCS coilovers dialed in. There have been very few track reports, very curious what to expect when I get mine on the track.

 

[ferraritoviper]

It isn't even worth posting issues on this site due to comments like this in every single thread.

Go to settings and click on "ignore list", then type in name you want to ignore. Out of sight, out of mind. The only time you'll see the ignored post, is when it is copied in a thread like above. If everyone does this, the problem will go away.

 

[ROCKET62]

THANK YOU! Bye Bye KD!

Go to settings and click on "ignore list", then type in name you want to ignore. Out of sight, out of mind. The only time you'll see the ignored post, is when it is copied in a thread like above. If everyone does this, the problem will go away.

 

[kratedisease]

It isn't even worth posting issues on this site due to comments like this in every single thread.

If you have NO sense of Humor then please do not comment on my posts !!

Thank you very much ...

He said he put on aftermarket pads, so that absolves the OEM manufacturer......DuH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[kratedisease]

THANK YOU! Bye Bye KD!

ROCKET62, I lived in the Quad Cities, specifically Davenport back in the 1980's and recently went back in 2010. Nothing, and I mean nothing has changed . Everyone is still getting high and sleeping with their step daughter or own daughter. So do you work at John Deere or Alcoa ? The ONLY great thing about the Quad Cities is Rudy's Tacos and Harris Pizza. ( are they still using large scissors to cut the Harris pizza slices ?)

 

[MGWLTD]

It usually takes about 100 miles to break in new pads. Durng that time, there should be no hard braking. I have seen a car behave as your car did when it was driven aggressively before pads were broken in. Could that be a factor here?

Well anything is possible. but i drove this car on the street with these pads for 900 miles and did my usual bedding procedure like i have for years so i THINK they should be bedded fine.

One of the guys at the track said its possible that they have too much bite for a stock tire and i could be having issues there.

I will go back in September with hoosiers.

Also to note i CANNOT heel and toe this car. the gas pedal is too far forward and to thin. Any tips for this??

George

 

[Boxer12]

^^personally, i suggest you learn to left foot brake...time for some new tricks. You will be faster. This is for all the heel-toe brakers: http://youtu.be/xl7O01h7MU4

Are your rotors all looking the same? bluish color with some pad material on it? if bedded correctly, they will look like this. Rebleed your brake lines and check pad installation.

No dis to Bobpentax, but he is wrong. Here is from the Carbotech site (same as all race pad techinique):
Proper bedding instructions for AX-Series & XP-Series Compounds :

1. All new brake pads require a bedding process, start this process by pumping your brakes a few times to assure proper installation. Once on track perform several moderate (medium) near stops (to a very slow rolling speed) to thoroughly warm up the pads and rotors. This should take 1-2 laps. This allows a thin layer of the pad material to be transferred into the micro-grooves of the rotor.
2. After the pads/rotors are warm, perform a series of hard near stops (to a slow rolling speed) until some brake fade is felt. This process should take about 2-4 laps (depending on the track). Once this occurs, then stay off the brakes (as much as possible) and bring your car into the pits/paddock to completely cool. Do not lock the tires during this operation.
3. Allow brake pads and/or rotors cool down to ambient temperatures; no less than 30 minutes. The total bedding procedure should not take more than 5-6 laps or about 10-15 minutes.

NOTE: The proper way to bed your brake pads and brake discs (rotors) is to bed them on the racetrack, NOT on the street (excluding the Bobcat 1521 compound).
Warning: Failure to properly bed in your pads could lead to friction material to chunk and break up resulting in poor pad performance and pad life. Improper bedding can also lead to overheating your pads and causing them to glaze over resulting in the car not being able to stop or slow properly.
Back to Top
[h=3]5. What is the proper way to bed brake rotors?[/h]New discs (rotors) just like pads need to be bedded in. Proper bedding will increase the rotor life and make it more resistant to thermal cracking. Before installing the new brake discs (rotors), be sure to thoroughly clean discs with clean wipes and brake cleaner. By cleaning the disc surface you want to make sure you have completely removed any and all grease, surface residue, and debris that might contaminate or damage the brake pads. Once the discs (rotors) are installed on the vehicle perform the following procedure. Please note that you can bed new pads & discs (rotors) at the same time.

1. Start out with several near stops for the first 1-2 laps, while gradually increasing your speed and brake force with every stop.
2. Next, do another 1-2 laps at normal speed followed by a cool down lap. The gray coloration is the pad material depositing a transfer layer of material into the micro-grooves of the disc. This process is pinnacle in achieving the best performance and life out of the rotor.
3. Then allow rotor(s) to completely cool down to ambient temperature.

Proper USED brake rotor bed in procedures:

1. If rotors have been previously bedded with Carbotech brake pads, then bedding the rotors again is not necessary.
2. If rotors were previously bedded using a different manufacturer’s brake pads; then it is strongly recommended that the used discs (rotors) be reconditioned/turned and meet minimum specification requirements.
3. Start out with several near stops for the first 1-2 laps, while gradually increasing your speed and brake force with every stop.
4. Next, do another 1-2 laps at normal speed followed by a cool down lap. The gray coloration is the pad material depositing a transfer layer of material into the micro-grooves of the rotor. This process is pinnacle in achieving the best performance and life out of the rotor.
5. Then allow rotor(s) to completely cool down to ambient temperature.

NOTE: Brake pads should be checked regularly. If pads are wearing evenly, then the pads can be used almost down to the backing plate.
NOTE: Do not drag your brakes; meaning, do not continually drive around the track with applied pressure to your brake pedal. This does not bed brake pads and/or rotors properly. This can severely hurt the performance and life of your brake pads & rotors.

 

[bushido]

Were the pads Pre-bedded? I run Carbotech pads on my cars. I buy them pre-bedded,and they are ready to roll on the track..
I think there is a lot more going on with your new car though.. It couldn't be just brake pads causing that problem..

 

[VENOM V]

Well anything is possible. but i drove this car on the street with these pads for 900 miles and did my usual bedding procedure like i have for years so i THINK they should be bedded fine.

One of the guys at the track said its possible that they have too much bite for a stock tire and i could be having issues there.

I will go back in September with hoosiers.

Also to note i CANNOT heel and toe this car. the gas pedal is too far forward and to thin. Any tips for this??

George

That's strange, for my foot these pedals are ideal for heel toe shifting. My Camaro drives me nuts when I heel toe at the track, I have to tilt my foot so far that I can barely reach the gas. The Viper is perfect for me. I am a size 9-1/2 shoe.

 

[VENOM V]

Were the pads Pre-bedded? I run Carbotech pads on my cars. I buy them pre-bedded,and they are ready to roll on the track..
I think there is a lot more going on with your new car though.. It couldn't be just brake pads causing that problem..

I will be taking it easy on my first track day, the car feels darty at speed. I see why Randy Pobst is busy behind the wheel when driving it hard. I won't say any more until I track it, which is gonna be a blast.

 

[kratedisease]

I will be taking it easy on my first track day, the car feels darty at speed. I see why Randy Pobst is busy behind the wheel when driving it hard. I won't say any more until I track it, which is gonna be a blast.

Double check your aligment front and rear. If it is off, it will make the car darty and skittish.

 

[VENOM V]

Double check your aligment front and rear. If it is off, it will make the car darty and skittish.

I was thinking the same. I need to have the brakes flushed with the high temp fluid any way, so I'll have them check the alignment then.

 

[Bill Pemberton Woodhouse]

Good info from Boxer 12 on bedding, and the other note you mentioned, George , is you drove them for about 900 miles, and driving them on the street is not the same as bedding.

I would give Carbotech a call ( good guys and sure they will be helpful ), check the alignment as suggested , and lots of good thoughts for you to analyse.

Lastly, not sure about your heel and toe issue, as I thought it worked well on the new car ------ are you racing in sandals again, ha,ha.

Let us all know what you find out.

 

[Bobpantax]

Nevermind. I just read Boxer's post above. he covers the issues very well.

 

[Boxer12]

Even if you buy prebedded pads, the rotors are new..and need bedding. Just FYI.

 

[SilveRT8]

Go to settings and click on "ignore list", then type in name you want to ignore. Out of sight, out of mind. The only time you'll see the ignored post, is when it is copied in a thread like above. If everyone does this, the problem will go away.

Thanks for the tip, got 2 Trolls on my list now, so I wont Create a disease with my new SRT Viper !!!!

 

[Alabaster Mamba]

Yep. 1st person to make the list after all these years. lol

 

[bushido]

Even if you buy prebedded pads, the rotors are new..and need bedding. Just FYI.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1570700178-post1.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1570703433-post2.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1570715032-post10.html

Bedding is much more important for the brake pads then it is for the rotors. When you bed pads you are getting ride of the gasses and the material starts to cure. There is no out-gassing or curing with rotors. Yes, you need to get a transfer layer of material on the surface of the rotor, but you can do that in the first lap or two. If you want to go out and bed the pads anyway to get a transfer layer of material then go right ahead. It will not hurt anything. But, it's not 100% necessary. Please let me know if you have any questions or comments."

I buy all my Carbotech pre-bedded pads from Adam,and have had no problems putting on the pads,and doing hot laps at Laguna Seca. Even with my 010 Z06. When I put Stoptech big brake kit I put the Carbotech pads,and went out on the track..

 

[kratedisease]

Yep. 1st person to make the list after all these years. lol

Awe, I gonna miss you Mr. A'mabastard Mumbojumbo.........

 

[kratedisease]

Thanks for the tip, got 2 Trolls on my list now, so I wont Create a disease with my new SRT Viper !!!!

Well, thats OK, you will not be missed by me since you were SO BORING anyway. Yawn.

 

[netapp]

Go to settings and click on "ignore list", then type in name you want to ignore. Out of sight, out of mind. The only time you'll see the ignored post, is when it is copied in a thread like above. If everyone does this, the problem will go away.

I think this was the best thing I have learned on this site. K dorks replies were getting old. Need to start a new thread showing the ignore function.