track alignment...what to do....?

[Catwood]

I need to get the Viper aligned. I may use a shop local to me and stay with the car. I've seen this spec

-2.0 neg camber front
1/16 toe out

-1.5 neg camber rear
1/8 toe in


Wonder if that's a starting point for track use without killing streetability.

Thanks,
Carl

 

[Dave's Big Brakes]

That's what I'm running all the time

 

[Catwood]

That's where I got the above number.

 

[Bad_Byte]

I need to get the Viper aligned. I may use a shop local to me and stay with the car. I've seen this spec

-2.0 neg camber front
1/16 toe out

-1.5 neg camber rear
1/8 toe in


Wonder if that's a starting point for track use without killing streetability.

Thanks,
Carl

Whattcha gonna do about caster?

I'd tell ya Carl but you'd just lord it over me at the track.

 

[VIPER GTSR 91]

I need to get the Viper aligned. I may use a shop local to me and stay with the car. I've seen this spec

-2.0 neg camber front
1/16 toe out

-1.5 neg camber rear
1/8 toe in


Wonder if that's a starting point for track use without killing streetability.

Thanks,
Carl

Thats what Archer Racing used on mine and works good for both left and right turn ins.

 

[Dave's Big Brakes]

See Carl, Yo prez ) is really good at this

Oh! can't resist this is also what you learn at one of my tech days

 

[Catwood]

Whattcha gonna do about caster?

I'd tell ya Carl but you'd just lord it over me at the track.

never......

So how much caster.....

 

[Bad_Byte]

Whattcha gonna do about caster?
I'd tell ya Carl but you'd just lord it over me at the track.

never......
So how much caster.....

Front
- 1.8 degree Camber
+ 5.9 degree Caster
1/16th inch Toe Out

Rear
- 1.3 degree Camber
1/8 inch Toe IN

That's what I shoot for.
I'm not sure if its peculiar to the Gen 1 (gotta remember I'm a lowly gen 1 driver) and I can't quite get the full 5.9 degree before losing some camber, but I'm not sure it matters much the way I drive.

 

[Catwood]

See Carl, Yo prez ) is really good at this

Oh! can't resist this is also what you learn at one of my tech days

I'll make one one day. You just seem to plan them when I'm busy

 

[Dave's Big Brakes]

Carl, call for an appointment I have the scales, and I can do you anytime between now and the 6th.

Don't forget, I have thoses pads for you.

 

[Catwood]

Yeah...I'm trying to figure out a way to make Sat @ Carlsbad but it's looking unlikely. I'll see what I can get in the way of a schedule. I'd like to know the corner weights.

 

[Mike H]

Typical "starting" specs on our WCGT car is:

-1 7/8 to 2 front camber
+6 castor
1/16th toe out

-1 rear camber
1/16th toe in rear to 1/8th

1.5 on the rear is way too much. We then monitor tire temps and reset corner cambers to balance the car.

Hope this helps.

 

[Janni]

Mike,

Are you running a stock sway bar?

 

[Bugeater]

I agree with Mike. I have dropped camber in the rear to
1.1 LR
0.8 RR

Most guys with street cars wont run any cross-camber so I would run the same on both sides but no more than 1.1.

For me the jury is out on front camber. I used to run
2.4 LF
2.1 RF

But I have dropped it down a couple tenths...like 2.1, 1.8

Mike,
What did you see when you ran more camber up-front?

 

[Mike H]

We have an upgrtaded sway bar that is adjustable. Again, this is starting points. At each track we watch the tire temps and determine from there whether we make adjustments. We have incresed or decresed camber depending on the tire dara. Sometimes and in many cases we adjust just one corner for better performance. Realize we work with tire pressures in conjunction with alignment.
The listed specs I gave you are great base line settings that an "average" racer who does not have a crew available for taking tire temps and pressures for more adjustments.
WE also have triple adjustable Penskes, for finer suspension tuning.
You must look at tire temps across the tire to see if the camber you are running is torturing the tire on the outer, center or inner edges. Different tracks affect tires differently, especiaaly trackes with high speed turns.
Hope this helps.

 

[Catwood]

That's for the info all. I only run about 4 or 5 events a year, although I'm trying to squeeze in more. I don't have the equipment to test temps yet but I guess that should be higher on the list.

I think you all have given me a good baseline to start.

Thanks again,

Carl

 

[Dave's Big Brakes]

Carl )

Guess who has all that stuff )
and everything everyone said is true, all depends on how many track days, and driving on the streets. Plus without adjustable shocks and springs, meaning real coilovers(for corner wt's and ride ht) you will be limited on how much you can do to your car.

Let me know when )

Yo Prez )

 

[Catwood]

I need a bigger bank account!

 

[Dave's Big Brakes]

 

[GTS Dean]

If the corners are fairly short, then going with a little less camber will help braking performance. The longer and higher speed the corners are, the more camber-sensitive the setup will be.

Good luck setting rear caster using the cams without the DRB and Viper Service Tools.

 

[RSNAKE]

Are all of the above posted alignments acceptable for street use?

Will they cause severe tire wear if driven 3K-7K per year on the street?

How will they affect launch if I take the car to a drag strip? With the current (guessing more or less stock) alignment, on a hard launch I get wheel hop in 1st and 2nd gears. Will this improve this condition or make it worse?

I am looking for a general all around alignment that will be better than stock on a road course or autocross but will be acceptable for street and strip use.

 

[Paul Hawker]

Don't forget, your GTS has removable "sports shims" that can easily be removed at the track. Significantly increases turn in.

It is a little work, but allows you to drive to the track, remove the shims, race the weekend, return the shims, and drive home without increasing tire wear.

I drove around with the shims our for a few thousand miles, and it really wore down the inside edges on the front tires.

 

[Dave's Big Brakes]

Hey Paul,
Not quite right removing the sport shims, gives 1' neg camber more, BUT it changes the front toe. You need to reset the front after sport shim removal

 

[Catwood]

does it move it in or out when you remove the shims?

 

[LETHAL GTS]

Anytime you adjust your camber it will effect your toe.

 

[Paul Hawker]

Good point Dave.
You can do a mini adjustment at the track after removing the shims. Kind of have to wing it. Remember to mark the starting point with some paint so you can readjust when driving home.

This is not near as good as a serious track alignment. Just something for those of us who like to drive to the track, run for the weekend and drive home.

For those that are going to use a trailer, forget what I said, and get a good track alignment, and carve up those corners.

 

[SoCal Rebell]

Doesn't matter what Carl's alignment is, he still won't break 1:40 at WSIR

You want me to ride with you a session Carl on the 27th?