Trouble Breaking Crankshaft Bolt Loose

cayman

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Probably a dumb question for the more avid mechanic but I'm in the process of pinning the crankshaft per Roe's recommendation prior to installing the SC. I have a 1 1/4" 3/4 socket, breakover and cheater bars but I can't seem to break the bolt loose. I have the car in gear (reverse) and the parking brake on but it feels like the motor is still turning when I try to torque the bolt loose. I'm afraid to go any further until I'm assured I'm not doing anything to screw anything up. Will the motor finally reach a stopping point if I continue and finally allow me to torque the bolt off? Also, when getting ready to rotate the crank to better position it to drill the other hole for the pins, I assume all I need to do is remove the spark plugs and put the car in neutral with the parking brakes set, then rotate the crank by putting the center bolt back in? Thanks for any input
 
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cayman

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Ingersoll 244 takes care of my "lite" work! :D

Why don't you and your Ingersoll 244 just skip right on over here and spin this puppy off for me! :D
 

Jim Wilson

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The motor will turn a bit but you won't hurt anything. The bolt is torqued to 250 ft. lbs. so it's going to take some force. Did you eat your Wheaties this morning? :p

You don't have to remove the spark plugs to rotate the engine. Try tapping the starter.
 
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cayman

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The motor will turn a bit but you won't hurt anything. The bolt is torqued to 250 ft. lbs. so it's going to take some force. Did you eat your Wheaties this morning? :p

You don't have to remove the spark plugs to rotate the engine. Try tapping the starter.

I've turned the motor crank about a half a turn so far trying to break the bolt loose and its still not breaking loose. It is regular thread (not left handed thread)isn't it?? Counterclockwise to loosen? Looks like a sledge is in order. :(
 

ballhog

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Don't see why you couldn't put the car in 6th and have someone stand on the brakes. Crank should not move.
 

GR8_ASP

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Agree, you want the trans gear in the lowest numerical ratio. I put mine in 4th (direct) to minimize potential to damage the trans. I also used a 6 ft pipe extension over a 30 inch torque wrench.

Be careful if the car is on a lift! You do not want to provide the force sideways and cause the lift to topple.
 

RedOne

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I have a solution that some might "cring" at. Performing the same task on a Supra I had to freeze the drive train in order to apply the touque necesary to remove the balancer bolt.

My solution was a long bar through the driveshaft u-joint up against the frame, 30 seconds later my bolt was out...

That was my last resort as my impact and then breaker bar with extension had fallen short with evry other method..
 

Jim Wilson

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Your on the right track cayman they are regeular threads. Using a big hammer or sledge to hit the end of the breaker bar may be what you need to break it loose.
 

X vetter

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You can thread the bolt back in to turn the crank, just barely use enough force to turn slowly and it shouldn't tighten too much to back out...worked for me anyways....

on a side note...kinda gives you the heebie jeebies drilling INTO the crank...

have fun :2tu:
 
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cayman

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You can thread the bolt back in to turn the crank, just barely use enough force to turn slowly and it shouldn't tighten too much to back out...worked for me anyways....

on a side note...kinda gives you the heebie jeebies drilling INTO the crank...

have fun :2tu:

That's what I did. The crank is officially pinned. I know what you mean about the jeebies! Now if I dont'snap my new 1/2" Craftsman 250 ft/lb torque wrench, I'll have it made, at least on that part of it. I actually twisted the square head of my last one and I wasn't anywhere near the max on it.
Wait..............the games are on. Time for a break!
 

Travis

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Probably a dumb question for the more avid mechanic but I'm in the process of pinning the crankshaft per Roe's recommendation prior to installing the SC. I have a 1 1/4" 3/4 socket, breakover and cheater bars but I can't seem to break the bolt loose. I have the car in gear (reverse) and the parking brake on but it feels like the motor is still turning when I try to torque the bolt loose. I'm afraid to go any further until I'm assured I'm not doing anything to screw anything up. Will the motor finally reach a stopping point if I continue and finally allow me to torque the bolt off? Also, when getting ready to rotate the crank to better position it to drill the other hole for the pins, I assume all I need to do is remove the spark plugs and put the car in neutral with the parking brakes set, then rotate the crank by putting the center bolt back in? Thanks for any input

Get a long breaker bar, pull the plug wires, and wedge the breaker bar against the ground, and bump the starter. Make sure the breaker bar is wedged against the ground on the driver side of the car. End thread.
 

kcobean

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When I was torquing mine, I just had my wife stand on the brakes with the car in first gear. She had to use some pretty hefty pressure on that brake pedal, but I hit the 250 ft-lb mark with not too much trouble.
 

Jack B

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A little more info, I don't believe it is a 1-1/4" socket. It is a 31mm socket. The 1-1/4" will work in most cases, but, could also lead to stripping the bolt head if the attachment is not perfectly perpendicular.
 

kcobean

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I used a 1-1/4" socket and with the torque wrench I had, perpendicular attachment was impossible. It seemed to do fine, but that's good info to have. The .496 mm difference between the two sockets didn't seem to make a huge difference on such a huge bolt.
 
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