Wet sanding ... final step ...

[Gerald]

Somehow I got a few minor scratches in my 05 black paint. No big deal as I can wet sand it out if they are not too deep. I can get them out on my other viper (red 98) but with the BLACK paint, it shows all the imperfections if any.

The problem is after wet sanding the black paint and getting the scratch out,it will leave a cloudy finish (tons of small scratches).. No big deal, use 3M rubbing compound and then 3M finish restorer with a random orbital bufffer right?? Upon completion it looks great, but I just can't get that end result black luster, I still see just a hint of cloudiness.... How can I get that final step correctly since I've got that black paint ? Buffer with cloth pad (That just seems to cloudy it up more), Buffer with foam pad?, etc???

Gerald

 

[99 R/T 10]

How about a little Zaino

 

[Newport Viper]

Wet sanding forum at Meguiars......

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=75

Post here.....

 

[GaryA]

While I'm no expert, I've studied this a lot and it seems that everybody that wet sands follows it by polishing the area with a wool pad and then using a foam pad as the final step. The wool pad can burn through the clear coat if you don't do it right.

You might find a piece of scrap body panel (or a donor car) and try it out and see if that works. I'm sure there are many experts here that can be more specific than me.

 

[onerareviper]

I give you credit, wet sanding a new Viper without being a pro. It's very easy to go thru the clear.

IMO an orbital buffer is probably the wrong tool to use after wet sanding. A rotary buffer is what any pro would use with a 3M formula to remove the scratches/haze. The oribitals just don't have the power to do a great job and don't generate enough/any heat. Don't get me wrong, the Porter Cable Orbital is great for general detailing, but removing wet sanding scratches is not what it's designed for.

Depending on the grit of paper you end with, will determine what 3M recommends for haze removal. I have used 3M Finesse It II with 1500-2000 grit. It will also determine what pad they recommend and what RPM to operate the rotary buffer. To do it right takes an experienced hand and the right equipment and compounds/polishes. I'd call 3M and speak with one of there product experts.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/!ut/p/kcxml/04_Sj9SPykssy0xPLMnMz0vM0Q9KzYsPDdaP0I8yizeId_QI1i_IcFQEADl3gqc!

 

[jpas]

You definitely want to use a "high speed" rotary buffer with at least a two step medium & fine compound and then a finishing glaze. What grit paper did you use to wet sand the clear? Once you start, you may end up doing the whole car, it makes that much of a difference

 

[Gerald]

I give you credit, wet sanding a new Viper without being a pro. It's very easy to go thru the clear.

IMO an orbital buffer is probably the wrong tool to use after wet sanding. A rotary buffer is what any pro would use with a 3M formula to remove the scratches/haze. The oribitals just don't have the power to do a great job and don't generate enough/any heat. Don't get me wrong, the Porter Cable Orbital is great for general detailing, but removing wet sanding scratches is not what it's designed for.

Depending on the grit of paper you end with, will determine what 3M recommends for haze removal. I have used 3M Finesse It II with 1500-2000 grit. It will also determine what pad they recommend and what RPM to operate the rotary buffer. To do it right takes an experienced hand and the right equipment and compounds/polishes. I'd call 3M and speak with one of there product experts.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/!ut/p/kcxml/04_Sj9SPykssy0xPLMnMz0vM0Q9KzYsPDdaP0I8yizeId_QI1i_IcFQEADl3gqc!

I've been wetsanding quite a few years, but I've NEVER wetsanded black. I guess it goes to show I've been doing it wrong all along as all the other colors show the luster easily after wetsandin with 2000 grit, then following up with 3M compound and then 3M finish restorer with an orbital buffer. But that BLACK! Damnit! That black is a biaaatch!
I just can't get that 10 out of 10th step down..

Don't get me wrong, it looks great and I do it all the time, but when the sun hits the black at the right angle, you can tell it's been wetsanded. It only does it on the black......

 

[2BADD 4U]

Gerald,

Try 3M #39002 Fine Cut.

Using a yellow pad (mild abrasive) with High RPMS 5-6k and a FAST moving buffer...PC 7424

Any Haze created by removing swirls/scratches...can be removed easily. You need to move the buffer "faster" back and forth/up and down...then wipe with a Micro-Fiber towel and inspect.


Remember, a SLOW moving buffer at HIGH Rpms removes SWIRLS

A FAST moving buffer At HIGH Rpms removes HAZE


Medium moving buffer at 3k with a white pad is best for finishing. And will make your wax/polish SHINE.

Dave

 

[FloridaChris]

Have you ever thought of using Meguiars #80 glaze with a Porter Cable RO buffer? Works great on minor scratches and swirls with much less risk. Just a thought...